300wins
Professional
- Thread starter Darksoft
- Start date
keiichi331
Professional
Haha we need a lift gate truck and some friends stat bro!You mean MY mini cute.
Glad you got it all sorted out thought.
arcadeaction
Enthusiast
Update: the issues I had before seem due to corrupt download of files for SD card. If you are having issues, really try to redownload and re-extract the files again a few times just in case, even if things seem to load ok.
Even though repeated tries hadn’t worked before, today I tried the 5-24 one and now everything that I tried so far worked except for Musclebomber DUO. All the CPS1.5 now have sound over Jamma. Hoping to get DUO to load yet, but this is way better now.
I initially tried many times on the SD card before going on to try multiple A boards, PALs, LCD cables etc, before circling back and spending a good bit more time on the SD card. There are just a lot of components going into this.
Looking forward to the add on boards etc!
Even though repeated tries hadn’t worked before, today I tried the 5-24 one and now everything that I tried so far worked except for Musclebomber DUO. All the CPS1.5 now have sound over Jamma. Hoping to get DUO to load yet, but this is way better now.
I initially tried many times on the SD card before going on to try multiple A boards, PALs, LCD cables etc, before circling back and spending a good bit more time on the SD card. There are just a lot of components going into this.
Looking forward to the add on boards etc!
ShootTheCore
Legendary
They've been pulled down temporarily because of issues with a few of the ROMs. I'm working on updating them this weekend and I'll post an update on here when they're available again.
Exactly that 100%
You have to remember that those PCBs are 30+ years old and in some cases the games only exploited a small part of the HW now when you get the full potential out of it, some issues that were before unnoticeable will now show up.
^ THAT ^
Playing the whole library of games via the multi is finally accessing parts and functions of the A-Board never used before and the PCB is unfortunately finally showing their bad colours and faults.
Seems to be a running issue that users have also been able to solve by changing their Donor boards.
I nearly sold off all my spare CPS-1 stacks but I’m happy I have them here for longevity now.
Playing the whole library of games via the multi is finally accessing parts and functions of the A-Board never used before and the PCB is unfortunately finally showing their bad colours and faults.
Seems to be a running issue that users have also been able to solve by changing their Donor boards.
I nearly sold off all my spare CPS-1 stacks but I’m happy I have them here for longevity now.
Just want to make sure that everybody is aware that we will be offering empty Sound PCBs in case people want to plug there a 30 year old Qsound. I believe that none of the distributors have any more Qsounds left anymore.
Honestly this topic has been over exagerated in my opinion. The whole system is 100% CPS1, only one chip is implemented in a FPGA, simply because it's not available in the market, it's a 30 year old niche chip. Just one chip, the rest of the multi is 100% original, including those A-01 that fail more often than anything else. I'm considering taking the 2 chips to an audio studio so that they can make an independent analysys for you guys and I can finally convince you that having an FPGA is at least as good. I say at least, because the chips consume less and are brand new and we are just replacing ONE chip, not the whole system.
I hope this makes sense.
Honestly this topic has been over exagerated in my opinion. The whole system is 100% CPS1, only one chip is implemented in a FPGA, simply because it's not available in the market, it's a 30 year old niche chip. Just one chip, the rest of the multi is 100% original, including those A-01 that fail more often than anything else. I'm considering taking the 2 chips to an audio studio so that they can make an independent analysys for you guys and I can finally convince you that having an FPGA is at least as good. I say at least, because the chips consume less and are brand new and we are just replacing ONE chip, not the whole system.
I hope this makes sense.
Wait just a goddamn minute. Next you're going to tell me my $700 audiophile grade HDMI cable doesn't improve fidelity.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioq...-black/6428752.p?skuId=6428752&ref=NS&loc=101
CoinFeeder
Professional
Hey folks! While initially having trouble getting my multi to run (only getting scrambled output or memory check errors), I ultimately figured out my issue and therefore quickly wanted to share my learnings.
As the QSOUND signal cable is routed below the board, it actually got pinched by one of the many "pinouts" (sorry, not sure how else to call them) from the board below. My hypothesis is that this caused the multi to always go into QSOUND mode, which obviously tripped all non-QSOUND games off.
I obviously take this as my own fault (as I could have simply secured the cable route with some tape) but can also see this happening to others quite easily as well. In fact, my QSOUND cable got pinched (lots of small holes) in just a few hours while I was setting things up and did the debugging.
So yeah, not sure if it's worth pointing this out in the next version of the manual (feels like it is), but at least I found I should leave a note here for others to make sure they don't run into the same issue.
Last but not least I'd love to thank Darksoft for this awesome multi, as well as DJ Sheep for the awesome shop experience! 5/5 stars all the way
As the QSOUND signal cable is routed below the board, it actually got pinched by one of the many "pinouts" (sorry, not sure how else to call them) from the board below. My hypothesis is that this caused the multi to always go into QSOUND mode, which obviously tripped all non-QSOUND games off.
I obviously take this as my own fault (as I could have simply secured the cable route with some tape) but can also see this happening to others quite easily as well. In fact, my QSOUND cable got pinched (lots of small holes) in just a few hours while I was setting things up and did the debugging.
So yeah, not sure if it's worth pointing this out in the next version of the manual (feels like it is), but at least I found I should leave a note here for others to make sure they don't run into the same issue.
Last but not least I'd love to thank Darksoft for this awesome multi, as well as DJ Sheep for the awesome shop experience! 5/5 stars all the way
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I'm sorry to break it to you but that cable will limit the number of errors in the communication and allow the cable to be longer, but no, it won't give you more megahertz
Brings up a preference point I have with the multi due to being heavily inflicted with arcade snob-syndrome.Hey folks! While initially having trouble getting my multi to run (only getting scrambled output or memory check errors), I ultimately figured out my issue and therefore quickly wanted to share my learnings.
As the QSOUND signal cable is routed below the board, it actually got pinched by one of the many "pinouts" (sorry, not sure how else to call them) from the board below. My hypothesis is that this caused the multi to always go into QSOUND mode, which obviously tripped all non-QSOUND games off.
I obviously take this as my own fault (as I could have simply secured the cable route with some tape) but can also see this happening to others quite easily as well. In fact, my QSOUND cable got pinched (lots of small holes) in just a few hours while I was setting things up and did the debugging.
So yeah, not sure if it's worth pointing this out in the next version of the manual (feels like it is), but at least I found I should leave a note here for others to make sure they don't run into the same issue.
Last but not least I'd love to thank Darksoft for this awesome multi, as well as DJ Sheep for the awesome shop experience! 5/5 stars all the way
Personally, I would rather have the RESET and QSOUND jumper cables routed between the bottom of the multi and the top of the A-Board, so they are somewhat hidden between the boards. So this question is mostly for cosmetic purposes, but there is some functional value: prevention of snagging during cab setup, etc. I'll probably figure it out on my own with a meter, but let me ask if anyone already knows where the corresponding solder points are for RESET and QSOUND on the components side of the A-board and can point them out?
I'll probably desolder the header on the multi and put in a header with longer pins so I can then connect the jumpers to the solder side of the multi.
J
jassin000
I assumed the solder points would be smaller/less accessible, so I appreciate the default "bottom side" install for all users.
That being said... It is my plan to replace the 12mhz Dash crystal with the dual oscillator PCB (when available).
So at that time I would appreciate the "top side" A-board locations of these solder points.
Great minds think alike. But I am even more impatient than you are. I want those solder points now!! ...............................hence, the multimeter and calipers are being pulled out right this moment.I assumed the solder points would be smaller/less accessible, so I appreciate the default "bottom side" install for all users.
That being said... It is my plan to replace the 12mhz Dash crystal with the dual oscillator PCB (when available).
So at that time I would appreciate the "top side" A-board locations of these solder points.
J
jassin000
Heh... You know... It also occurs to me...
IF the dual crystal oscillator PCB had say two solder pads on it for RESET and QSOUND...
It could offer a consolidated three pin header output (DASH/RESET/QSOUND) matching the connector on the multi PCB (thus we could use one single IDC/etc cable to connect these two points between A/B).
CLEAN baby!
@Derick2k ?
Looks like the QSOUND point is pin 18 on the 9k PAL. This is easy to get to. Just solder onto the PAL leg.
RESET looks to be a trickier proposition. Looks to be the last pin on this resister array(?)? Some bare metal is showing under the insulation and that is all you have to solder to. Unless there is an adjacent point.
Don't quote me on any of this though, this is completely untested at this point.
RESET looks to be a trickier proposition. Looks to be the last pin on this resister array(?)? Some bare metal is showing under the insulation and that is all you have to solder to. Unless there is an adjacent point.
Don't quote me on any of this though, this is completely untested at this point.
GeorgeSpinner
Grand Master
You honestly have not heard of the 68000 CPU? I'm seriously asking.
Bloggers love to throw that one around because it makes then seem like they are more tech savvy than they really are.
I would be surprised if anyone managed to be on the earth long enough to be into CPS1 arcade games but managed not get beaten over the head with mentions of the Motorola 68000 and it's variants/clones. It's in most consoles/arcade games from the era. It's a huge part of gaming history.
You might be able to populate a single pin header here. Otherwise I think it’s pin20 on the HD68HC0000 and that has a via that would probably fit a pin. The reset signal off the multi is pulling low, i.e. it’s not being inverted between the currently-used-pin and the cpu, so I don’t see why you couldn’t use that directly.
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