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Dim Picture Nanao ms2931

BlinG

BlinG

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So my issue with this particular chassis is that the picture is very dim. Adjusting the contrast or brightness doesn't really do much either. See picture below:

ByeN4ia.jpg



The one on the left is the one I am having issues with. I've already ordered a cap kit for this, but before I go changing out 53 caps I hope there's something I am missing here?
 
Bad pot on the remote board or perhaps just the screen pot on the chassis needs adjusting.
 
BlinG said:
So my issue with this particular chassis is that the picture is very dim. Adjusting the contrast or brightness doesn't really do much either. See picture below:

The one on the left is the one I am having issues with. I've already ordered a cap kit for this, but before I go changing out 53 caps I hope there's something I am missing here?
Click to expand...
Frank_fjs said:
Bad pot on the remote board or perhaps just the screen pot on the chassis needs adjusting.
Click to expand...
I'd try what Frank says -- adjust the screen pot on the chassis to the point where the blacks are black on a cross hatch test screen, then try the remote board and make sure all the dials function carefully with a small screwdriver by bringing up the colours whilst retaining the black.

I just received my MS9/29 chassis back from being serviced by local legend Jomac... I can't recommend you find someone legitimate who can service your area to look at it... I'd recommend his service, but he doesn't do anything outside of Australia.

Also, before rushing out to use a cap kit, I'd read this...
https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/9261-Cap-Kits?s=a598a51d52619f78bd83e77a007e7400
 
the remote board does not have pots, it's an OSD. I've messed with the screen pot on the flyback with no luck. The colors are just really "washed" out and don't look crisp like a nanao ms2931 should be.
 
Most of the time it's just incorrectly set DIP switches. Sometimes the remoteboard cable can be broken too and thus send wrong DIPs.
 
Not sure on this chassis, but my Weiya trisync chassis has a switch to flip the termination between 75ohm and 1kohm for 15/31k sources?
 
I don't believe that this chassis has any dip switches since it's auto sync. I really am not looking forward to a cap kit, but that's what I gotta do then I guess I'll set aside a whole day to do this.
 
From the remote board? Yes I have. All I can adjust there is vertical+horizontal size, contrast, and brightness. If I turn the brightness significantly down and contrast fairly high the picture looks better, but still dull and dim.
 
Probably just needs a cap kit if adjusting the screen pot and brightness don't do the trick.

However, it's possible it's not the chassis at all but rather that the tube needs to be rejuved.
 
I believe it is the chassis, because the previous one I had in here the picture looked amazing. It was all good until one day it blew out and I had to find a replacement.

This is what it looked like before:

https://imgur.com/a/ReSJKuT

I tried having the original chassis fixed by PNL, but it's still there. So I got this dim ass one in the mean time because i need my 3s weekends to come back :(
 
I guess the dim screen has nothing to do with how you are splitting the video signal in the first pic? I mean you have tried it with just a regular game connected without splitting the video? If you have, then carry on.
 
Yes it looks the same without splitting it. Now the monitor just completely crapped out. This cabinet is tainted...Too much money and time is being put into this that I just sold it to the local fgc.
 
nem said:
I guess the dim screen has nothing to do with how you are splitting the video signal in the first pic? I mean you have tried it with just a regular game connected without splitting the video? If you have, then carry on.
Click to expand...
^THAT^, if its not your split signal.

See if you can get someone to test the tube with a CRT tester to rule it out
If its the tube you can rejuv it but that has limited mileage on how long it will last or you can try to raise the heater voltage slightly
If its not the tube, then dig into that chassis for issues
 
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