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The Q25 has a gorgeous picture though, and I found the big marquee deep inside.
ppl that have never seen a Q25 picture and knock MS8s have no understanding about that chassis and tube combo at 25", its just a perfect match.

The top marquee is truly a bonus as most were lost over time and why I had mine reproduced for others by FrancoB.
 
Keep in mind PSU with no load will read high. With PCB will less.
 
Keep in mind PSU with no load will read high. With PCB will less.
The problem is how much the Egret II PSU varies under load. It may come as a surprise to those used to low-grade arcade power supplies, but very good power supplies do not have such variance under load.

The New Astro City power supply isn't a perfect lab-grade thing, but the range that mine floats between is so narrow that I have never once had to adjust the power supply. In contrast, a NOS Egret II power supply playing Battle Garegga was unable to go below 5.1V, with or without a 115 --> 100V step-down transformer outside the cab.
 
I think you are underestimating basic power draw equation.

Test plug no board: 5.71V (on not so good meter, but difference applies)
XSAC7NS.jpg


Test plug cps2: 5.01V... keep in mind no adjstment from psu
gUsjBp4.jpg



Test plug mvs4000 no board 5.43V
jlu3wrN.jpg


Test plug mvs4000 cps2: 5.03V again no adjust psu made
9BpTcxE.jpg



Can do others since many psus will have different drop but you can see from this i think.
 
I don’t know what to tell you. I have many games where the E2 PSU can’t be adjusted down to 5V under load. Even with this NOS one, I’m only using it until I get another better PSU, and then this one is going back in storage. Maybe it belongs in the trash or a shredder or something.
 
I don’t know what to tell you. I have many games where the E2 PSU can’t be adjusted down to 5V under load. Even with this NOS one, I’m only using it until I get another better PSU, and then this one is going back in storage. Maybe it belongs in the trash or a shredder or something.
Isn't the stock E2 PSU from Wei-Ya?
 
I don’t know what to tell you. I have many games where the E2 PSU can’t be adjusted down to 5V under load. Even with this NOS one, I’m only using it until I get another better PSU, and then this one is going back in storage. Maybe it belongs in the trash or a shredder or something.
Odd, mine is NOS and it def goes under 5v. My only problem with the E2 psu is it doesn’t have a strong 12v for older boards. Which is weird as I have some e29/canary ones and they have a very strong 12v. If you mainly play single boards it’s fine; stuff like salamander or splatterhouse I have to adjust the 5v up some, but it still works.
I don’t know what to tell you. I have many games where the E2 PSU can’t be adjusted down to 5V under load. Even with this NOS one, I’m only using it until I get another better PSU, and then this one is going back in storage. Maybe it belongs in the trash or a shredder or something.
Isn't the stock E2 PSU from Wei-Ya?
E3 later became stock weiya but taito made their own psu for E2.
 
How is the rotate mech on the Q25 @rewrite?
We'll find out today. I closed off my little game room, put on a fan and opened the window after spraying mold killer stuff yesterday.

The rest of my free time went to mucking about with the Domy, but I didn't get anywhere with it.
 
Alrighty then, I guess the next question is what connectors are needed if one was to replace the stock E2 PSU with a better one. The intent of course is to keep everything else all stock and unmodified.
 
Alrighty then, I guess the next question is what connectors are needed if one was to replace the stock E2 PSU with a better one. The intent of course is to keep everything else all stock and unmodified.
There’s no reason to change it unless you can’t repair or replace it. What do you plan to run that you’d need so much extra power?
 
If the E2 stock PSU works for my games, I won't do anything other than tuning it up with a cap kit. Asking this question and just throwing it out there as there are those in this hobby that want perfection. It will get asked sooner or later.
 
I’ve had an e2 for over 10 years. Never had an issue with the stock PSU.

I love the comment above, if it works I’ll recap it, if it doesn’t I’ll replace it :lol:
 
So since mine is actually dead:

What connectors need to be ordered to build an adapter?

Remaining stock isn't worth a few hundred bucks to me.
 
When I had my E2, I recapped my PSU. Out of the 30+ PCBs I own, they all worked. However, I'm not gonna lie. There are some boards out their that draw more than it can handle. To be fair that number is pretty damn low.

If you are looking at powering more than the stock E2 and its optional amp + your pcbs tapping off the PSU. Then yes, you should upgrade your PSU.

Lets get practical here, many hobbyists replace the stock speakers and get an aftermarket amp that draws more than that small Taito amp. So plan accordingly and don't just toss everything in expecting it to work.
 
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