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WTB LF: PSUs (Astro, Naomi Sun)

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100Proof

100Proof

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Looking for two power supplies:

- Replacement PSU for my Astro City. Doesn't need to be OEM, just compatible and reliable. Preferably new-ish.

- A Sun PSU to run a Naomi NetDIMM setup.

If someone could point me in the right direction to find either (if they're available at retail anywhere) or if somebody has working ones to spare, I'll gladly pay the going rate.
 
Did you get a response? been trying to get a replacement psu for my OG AC too
 
I have no idea what a Astro City requires for power or connections.
This however...
100Proof said:
A Sun PSU to run a Naomi NetDIMM setup.
Click to expand...
I highly recommend this project (yes the pinout is for a Vewlix/AWSD harness but you could crimp your own, its one 5 pin JST for input and two molex mini fit jr's for output).
 
I think the Astros had a couple of different supplies??

In any event, someone was supposed to send me a bad one but never did. I was going to make them a replacement PSU resuing their old case/buttons. I dont have an Astro so dont want to divert funds to buy a PSU to rework it etc... so that's where I'm at with that.
 
I got a replacement Sun from Yaton so that's up and running.

Still trying to figure out what to do with the AC. I've been told that Happ's "Power Pro 230/110" is a suitable replacement but can't find any confirmation either way. Last thing I want is to wire it up and blow a perfectly good monitor. I'm just useless with this shit and there's just not enough reliable information on the interwebs about these old machines.
 
If you are just worried about powering the cab, any switching arade PSU w/ +5vdc, -5vdc, +12vdc would work in an AC. But you'd want to keep it clean so that would require using proper connectors that would dovetail into the existing connections. Want to avoid slicing and dicing up your wiring. I think the Meanwell PSU options would work nicely. Seem to be very stable. You would still have to rework the wiring so that the cab AC powering works.

Additionally, the AC PSU has other functions like demag, AC power on/off, and I believe service, test. Probably should give a whack at trying to repair it if you are up to the challenge. Start with a recap. Pulling transistors and checking if they are still working. Probably your best bet.

Overseas shipping from China has just recently become a challenge. Used Chinese electronics will no longer be allowed into the country. If found by customs, will be seized and destroyed. My buddy told me about that due to his work. Yaton posted about that from his Facebook page. Unless you can source replacements from other countries, buying used components from China now is a gamble.

As for the Sun PSU, just keep your eyes peeled for them on the forums, social media, eBay. Sourced within country. Overseas China shipment now is a gamble.

1653568755585.png
 
I had a Suzo Happ power pro, I'm glad I ditched it for the Mean Well.
Only had one adjustment pot, very hard to get a solid 5.0v without going above 12.4v. Ran hot, and I had video noise (to be fair the noise could have been because I didn't run it behind an isolation transformer like I do the Mean Well).
 
Gonna look in to both River Service and Mean Well. What model of the Mean Well is appropriate for Japanese cabs?
 
The mean well wont be a simple swap though, which psu is in AC, there are a whole bunch apparently that are used.
 
Mine is the 400-5198. Tried to diagnose the problem with a friend as the fuse kept blowing. Swapped chassis and blew, swapped with new PSU from Yaton and blew. Couldn't figure out where the short was in either PSU.
 
That makes it easy then. You should check and see if you have cold solder joint around your demag circuit and if the demag pins going into the monitor connection are in the right positions. These are AMP connections, so they are easy to depin if they are incorrectly positioned.
 
RealMFnG said:
That makes it easy then. You should check and see if you have cold solder joint around your demag circuit and if the demag pins going into the monitor connection are in the right positions. These are AMP connections, so they are easy to depin if they are incorrectly positioned.
Click to expand...
It's not depinned as far as I can tell
 

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Is this little guy supposed to short? Label in the back says NTN901 (or NTH901? Hard to read) checked the blue ones they're fine.
 

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gunstar327 said:
It's not depinned as far as I can tell
Click to expand...
Are the pins in the correct position?
gunstar327 said:
Is this little guy supposed to short? Label in the back says NTN901 (or NTH901? Hard to read) checked the blue ones they're fine.
Click to expand...
Not sure what you mean by short. But both leads should be soldered into the mainboard/chassis.

You can also leave the demag wire disconnected from the chassis.
 
Derick2k said:
Maybe replace them? They are part of the degaussing circuit. Won't hurt anything if you do.

These I think will be the ones for that chassis

https://www.radwell.com/en-US/Buy/MCM ELECTRONICS/MCM ELECTRONICS/33-650/

https://www.radwell.com/Buy/MCM ELECTRONICS/MCM ELECTRONICS/32-7120?redirect=true
Click to expand...
Just ordered them.
RealMFnG said:
Are the pins in the correct position?

Not sure what you mean by short. But both leads should be soldered into the mainboard/chassis.

You can also leave the demag wire disconnected from the chassis.
Click to expand...
This cab had been in working order for about 9 months last year before this issue so yeah pins are in the right place. Sorry my first cab so I'm learning still. Like Derick said I identified something along the degaussing circuit but as one could imagine I unplugged it from the chassis and fuse still blows so probably okay replacing but not the issue, so I'm guessing the problem is somewhere near AC IN on the chassis?
 
Doesn't sound like it is your PSU given you swapped it with two different PSU's (one from Yaton, another from your buddy that is known to work) and still get a blown fuse.

Fix that component on your chassis and take things from there. In the meantime, check if you have fraying or a strand of copper that loosened itself from the insullation and is grounding out on something. Stuff like that happens over time as the plastic insulation weakens over time and there is some insidious strain on wiring.
 
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