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Namco Exceleena Restoration

Ziggy Cheetos Dust said:
The cable retainers were a bit of a mess after the cab was powder coated. They’d covered them with some sort of protective tape, but the plastic covering still melted. I picked and scraped all the gunk off and as suggested earlier in the thread I covered them with heat shrink. I was going to use braided heat shrink for a bit of a more premium feel but didn’t bother in the end as I had heaps of the normal stuff.
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Heck yeah, hopefully you're happy with the results.
 
Ziggy Cheetos Dust said:
I found a couple of drips of power coat that had formed on the edge of the CP. I just scraped them off with a blade. It left the CP a little exposed, but for home use it’s not going to be an issue. I set up the control panel as well. Firstly sticking down the nice thick @alberto1225 overlay and then using a Dremel and router bit to cut out the holes. This removes the powder coat from the inner surface of the buttons, but to cut the holes using a separate bit of metal as a guide would have been a pain. I’m just going with four buttons for now as this will be a tate shmups machine. I found the 3D printed Buttercade bullet tops a bit sharp on the bottom with the joystick shaft length, so I’ve swapped them out with KDiT Kinu ball tops which match the grey bottom and Exceleena bezel better.
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Thank you for this, I had always wondered how folks got such perfect button holes in the CPO without a punch, and now I know. Amazing job on the restoration! Keep up the good work
 
PASTBLASTER said:
Beautiful work. I really like that matte balltop too!
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Thanks PASTBLASTER, they look and feel good to use.
plasticfactory said:
That cp is sick! Really great choice of parts.
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Thanks, yeah the darks and brights mix came off well.
bartre said:
Heck yeah, hopefully you're happy with the results.
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They’ll be fine hey. Once I wrap up the cables that’s how they’ll stay.
hoagtech said:
Your cab is coming along beautifully!

That powder coat is next level ..
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Thanks hoagtech. It is nice to look at. Total cost was $850AUD. That’s not too bad considering they blasted the cab and over 20 parts and then primed them followed by the final powdercoat. Stripping and painting by myself would have been brutal.
hatmoose said:
Thank you for this, I had always wondered how folks got such perfect button holes in the CPO without a punch, and now I know. Amazing job on the restoration! Keep up the good work
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No problem hatmoose. It feels a bit gnarly when one drives the bit through the plastic and when the bit hits the metal, but I just didn’t go too hard. Then I followed up with a softer dremel tool to get the last of the plastic ground away. I thought a lot about this and didn’t know what else to do. A blade wouldn’t work as the plastic is too thick and I was worried using a punch, step drill or hole saw would shatter the plastic. I also thought of running a cheap soldering iron around the edge but that could cause a raised lip.
 
I did a fair amount of wire harness scrubbing today using a toothbrush and a bit of isopropyl alcohol and eucalyptus oil for some paint overspray on cables and switches. I’ve mounted everything back in the power supply PCB assembly and hopefully it’s all good. I just need to reproduce some of the original labels that were on the bracket.
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Looking at my other Exceleena’s coin door I can see that I’m missing some bits to get a JP coin mech going. I might have to farm some parts from that machine, including the little flap on the coin return. Today I’ve put the coin chute, PCB holder and cable tray back in. I also got the monitor rotate bracket in a few days ago. Some before and after shots:
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Here’s the little coin PCB. The pads on what I think is the power connector had lifted and it was wobbly and therefore had no electrical continuity. So I scratched off some of the coating along the trace and soldered a little connective ‘bridge’ to hold the connector in place. It seems sturdy enough. I was going to try a copper wire loop that replaces the pad which you then solder a continuation of the loop to the trace, but let’s see how this goes. I also cleaned off the spray paint with eucalyptus oil and continued to flush the surface with isopropyl alcoho.
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I’m slowly getting the wiring back in. Today I drilled and threaded new holes for the step down transformer and put some of the wiring in. Some of the wiring I had to add new connectors and pins to be compatible between the donor transformer wiring from the Rolling Extreme cabinet and some of Exceleena stuff that had been cut and bypassed. I spliced in the degauss and monitor power to a connector that had been cut. I could have just made a new connector but wanted to try out my little joining crimps and keep a bit of history of the old game. I accidentally Snapped a wire retainer off from the base so put in some nice Japanese wire retainers I got from CQB Arcade. I’ll probably end up using more of these. I’m not 100% settled on the wire routing yet. That will make more sense when more parts are back in - especially the JAMMA harness

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Great work again :thumbup:

I've not seen those type of crimp connectors before, they look ideal for a scenario like that. What are they called? I'm a bit hesitant to google for anything to do with 'double enders' or 'two wires, one crimp' :whistling:
 
FrancoB said:
Great work again :thumbup:

I've not seen those type of crimp connectors before, they look ideal for a scenario like that. What are they called? I'm a bit hesitant to google for anything to do with 'double enders' or 'two wires, one crimp' :whistling:
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Yeah be careful 😉. Definitely avoid “docking connector”. I got them from that junk online shop TEMU.

https://share.temu.com/NjbAEi3nOXA
 
Another busy day spent pulling the donor tube from the Rolling Extreme cabinet and then removing it from the frame it was in and putting it into the Exceleena’s frame.

I gave the Exceleena frame a clean and a soak in Lanoshield to moisturise and protect some of the early signs of corrosion in the plating. After a wipe down it’s ever so slightly tacky but will provide some moisture protection.

I then mirrored the brackets and rotation pin on the back of the frame to allow me to rotate the monitor the normal way - and not be locked into the Namco tate configuration.

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As soon as I pulled the Videocolor tube to put down on the soft quilt, I had a helper show up and take the spot 🥹
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Standard config.
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Mirrored config.
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Inside the cab. I can rotate back to yoko but if I tried another 180° turn the bracket at bottom in the pic above hits the back of the cabinet.
 
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