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Taito F3 Multigame

brentradio said:
What I think would be a cool idea, is for Darksoft to do a bulk buy of the CORRECT sd cards and format and install everything but the roms onto each one and send them out with each board.

That way the end user only needs to get the rom pack and copy it over...

Is this a feasible idea?

Just a thought.

:D
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If it helps you any, I bought these from Amazon when they were in stock and they have thus far worked for every Darksoft project I own without issue: SCSI2SD for use with Darksoft's CPS3 repro cart and SIMM's, the CPS2 multi, and the ST-V multi. I think it was around $10 for 8 of them when they were fulfilled by Amazon. Maybe Amazon will bring them back into stock soon.

EDIT: All of my actions formatting, copying of roll-up packs, or burning images to these cards was done in Ubuntu with pre-installed software (Disk Image Writer). Everyone should pick up a cheap laptop just to run Ubuntu. Pay your bills securely and use it for arcade projects :)
SmokeMonster said:
I am happy to set up a Roll-Up for the F3, but I need a little help. If someone can hook me up with a full working rom-set, I will lay those down as the base. I would probably need someone PMing me when new stuff comes out though in order to keep the pack updated.

This is not the best time for me since I'll be traveling internationally from the 14th until the 5th. So it might have to wait until I'm back.
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Take your time. We aren't going to get these shipped to us until mid-July.
 
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That mod WILL be helpful for some people....those weiya tri's tend to not like hopping in and out of sync, and the WG9200's get grumpy about it too sometimes, so hopefully this will keep those arcade monitors from having issues.

Nice fix ya'll.
 
Awesome. I was a little worried about the sync issue myself so this is a nice solution and I'll definitely be doing it.

Would it be possible to add it to the PCB for orders after this initial 100?
 
this requires a jump wire soldered to both the cart and the mobo so I could in the best case deliver it with one cable soldered on the cart but not on the mobo. To be honest I dont like shipping the mini with a hanging cable so if you are gonna have either way to solder it to one point, soldering it to two instead is not much extra work and will be less risky imho.
 
I agree that delivery with a loose cable is not the best, but could you deliver the cable with the kit ?
 
Darksoft said:
this requires a jump wire soldered to both the cart and the mobo so I could in the best case deliver it with one cable soldered on the cart but not on the mobo. To be honest I dont like shipping the mini with a hanging cable so if you are gonna have either way to solder it to one point, soldering it to two instead is not much extra work and will be less risky imho.
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Brain fart, sorry I forgot about connecting it to the mobo too :S

It looks a real easy mod to be fair though. Thanks for taking the time to develop it :thumbsup:
 
Installed & tested this, works great :)
I used a short length of kynar wire and this was installed in a few seconds.
 
I don't understand the whole "out of sync" fuzz. I also have multisync arcade monitors that "click" like crazy everytime the frequence changes.

With the F3 Multi there isn't a single strange noise at monitor side when switching games.....

But well, most important is that the customer is happy :D
 
Darksoft said:
Reset wire implemented as shown on this video:
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Thank you so much for listening to my concerns.

I know that it would probably be ok for 99% of the users out there, but when you have an original screen like a Nanao, I, for one, become really paranoid about it and this simple mod is the perfect fix I was looking for.

Oh well, gotta sell something to get the money and then I'm definitely getting this!

Thanks again for your effort!
 
deibit said:
I don't understand the whole "out of sync" fuzz. I also have multisync arcade monitors that "click" like crazy everytime the frequence changes.

With the F3 Multi there isn't a single strange noise at monitor side when switching games.....

But well, most important is that the customer is happy :D
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For most people it's not an issue, but some monitor chassis are really sensitive to losing sync/going out of range quickly
 
donluca said:
Darksoft said:
Reset wire implemented as shown on this video:
Click to expand...
Thank you so much for listening to my concerns.
I know that it would probably be ok for 99% of the users out there, but when you have an original screen like a Nanao, I, for one, become really paranoid about it and this simple mod is the perfect fix I was looking for.

Oh well, gotta sell something to get the money and then I'm definitely getting this!

Thanks again for your effort!
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this is the kind of support that you can only find here :)
 
Mitsu do you have a link to the video showing you how to remove the plastic stoppers on the motherboard (if I remember correctly you mentioned it in your Taito F3 video).
 
What's the multicart pinout? Japan or Europe?

I like to keep my stuff as original as possible, so I'd like to know whether if I should get a Japanese or European motherboard.
 
swisstoni said:
Mitsu do you have a link to the video showing you how to remove the plastic stoppers on the motherboard (if I remember correctly you mentioned it in your Taito F3 video).
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I have seen some videos where they use a solder tip... i would not do that. I have "freed" two F3's with a small Dremmel ball tip.. (don't use the tungsten one), it's cleaner and safer.
 
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