MV1FZ no sound

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    • If you can play games then its not the Z80.

      Personally I never saw a bad YM2610 either...

      So, it could be;

      1) bad volume pot
      2) bad electrolitic capacitor around sound region
      3) bad amplifier IC (most probably)
      4) bad speaker wiring?

      When you play with the volume pot, do you hear at least a hum or a hiss sound? Or if you tap the capacitors with your finger do you hear anything?

      During the above simple tests, if the PCB is still dead silent then most probably the amplifier IC is fried...
    • yavuzg wrote:

      If you can play games then its not the Z80.

      Personally I never saw a bad YM2610 either...

      So, it could be;

      1) bad volume pot
      2) bad electrolitic capacitor around sound region
      3) bad amplifier IC (most probably)
      4) bad speaker wiring?

      When you play with the volume pot, do you hear at least a hum or a hiss sound? Or if you tap the capacitors with your finger do you hear anything?

      During the above simple tests, if the PCB is still dead silent then most probably the amplifier IC is fried...
      Getting back to this project.

      Cleared RAM.

      Checked with multimeter at board edge to verify voltage. 12v looks good.

      I am getting humming hissing that gets louder or softer when I turn the volume up and down with the pot on the board.

      Speaker wiring is giving me the noises and works with other boards.

      Caps have a lot of glue on them but they all look fine, no bulging.
    • I 2nd the bad amp/IC, I blew up the audio amp on one of my 1FZ's by plugging it into a Wei Ya PSU WITHOUT using a 100v Japanese stepdown converter.
      The 12v line fluctuate so wildly (multi meter registered a 16v spike at one point) it pop'd the amp.

      Moral? Never use Wei Ya PSU without stepdown converter (be aware this is the stock PSU for the ENTIRE VEWLIX family)!
      The 12v line will beat like a heart, dipping down in the 9v range, then blasting up to the 16v range. *thump*thump*thump*
      Darksoft: CPS3, CPS2, F3, MVS
      RGB: RECO v2, HAS v3
      invzim: Jammafier v1.6b
      XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24
      Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (Special Edition)

      The post was edited 1 time, last by jassin000 ().

    • Coyo5050 wrote:

      What part do i need to replace the bad IC?
      Ok. It is a cheap and common part that you won't be too unhappy that you bought a new one if that is not the cause of your problem.

      The part is a common amplifier IC used in car audio systems back in the day. It is "HA13001". It is the flat component which its heat sink is fastened to the PCB with two screws. Its the part right next to the volume pot where the silk screen says "POWER-AMP1". Double check with "your" MV1FZ to make sure it is that part.
    • Ok, I replaced the HA13001 and still no sound. When I adjust the volume pot up and down I get nothing. Not even the hissing from before.

      So ned to make sure I replaced it right. I had some trouble pulling the old one out so I checked continuity on the replacement from the pins to the board and the ones I could figure out were good. There are 4 pins that dont seem to connect to anything on the board, pins 1, 4, 9 and 10. Are they used?

      Havent done caps yet since so far things seem worse since not even hissing sounds anymore.

      The post was edited 1 time, last by Coyo5050 ().

    • I found a schematic about building a basic car amp using the amp IC on the Neo boards (I can't find an English datasheet for it)

      eleccircuit.com/mini-40-watt-a…amplifiers-using-ha13001/

      Pin 1, 4 and 9 are connected to ground, pin 10 seems to be the +12 input, not having that might be a problem. Check with your multimeter for continuity between 10 and +12 and the others and GND
    • yavuzg wrote:

      If you can play games then its not the Z80.

      Personally I never saw a bad YM2610 either...

      So, it could be;

      1) bad volume pot
      2) bad electrolitic capacitor around sound region
      3) bad amplifier IC (most probably)
      4) bad speaker wiring?

      When you play with the volume pot, do you hear at least a hum or a hiss sound? Or if you tap the capacitors with your finger do you hear anything?

      During the above simple tests, if the PCB is still dead silent then most probably the amplifier IC is fried...
      As yavuzg said you should check that things ... but if you're getting humming/hissing going louder/softer when you turn the volume up/down with the pot the power amp HA13001 should to its work, by the way you already replaced it and the audio issue is still there.

      if something in the digital part of the audio circuit was bad the startup test should rise at least a Z80 error, so you should focus on the analog section of the circuit.

      Look at the attached picture, the ICs in the yellow square are the DIGITAL part of the circuit, you should check the ANALOG part the RED bordered one.

      The audio chain is the following:

      (DIGITAL) Z80/YM2610 > DAC YM3016 (DIGITAL-ANALOG CONVERTER) > OPAMP uPC844g > POWER AMP HA13001 > JAMMA

      So you should check the DAC and the OPAMP, they are light-blue dotted.

      Which tools have you available for troubleshooting?
      Images
      • mv1fz2.png

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    • I just have a multimeter for testing and I have a full cap kit. I used it to check continuity between ground on the JAMMA edge to pin 1,4 and 9 and they were good. Pin 10 to the 12v on the JAMMA edge I didnt get anything and that is def required for sound.

      Obvious not permanent solution but quick and easy to test, can I just run a wire between pin 10 and the 12v JAMMA edge to make sure they are connected to troubleshoot or would that bypass something important?

      The post was edited 2 times, last by Coyo5050 ().

    • F'd up the HA13001doing something stupid broke a pin off so ordered a new one. Removed it from the board and using the multimeter since I had a nice hole and An not getting continuity.

      I cant see the path the 12v on the JAMMA edge gets to the HA13001 so no idea how to check it. Anyone know the path it takes so I can check?