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FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

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ReplicaX said:
@kuze Have you verified if your chassis is a Tosh PB7534 or Nanao?
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It's the Tosh PB7534. Here's a video of the sounds mine makes:


So it does the constant beeping and a "turning over" sound that I wouldn't exactly describe as "clicking" but maybe?
 
DecepticonZero said:
Flyback squeal and a bad HOT.
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+1.

Can just replace the HOT and do a recap (since you're there anyway, and you don't want to add wear to the newly installed HOT or you'll be buying another in 3 months) and hope that everything takes care of itself then.

The flyback, you can try tightening the screws that mount it to the chassis to eliminate some of the squealing. Could just be age, but sometimes when they're loose from the chassis PCB that can cause that. When possible it's best to do this when it's on (very carefully) so you can gauge the change in sound as you turn different screws.
 
So the HOT would make that "turning over" sound not the flyback on the Windy?

On another note, I braved the rats nest of wires in the New Net City today and removed it all. Pics here: https://imgur.com/a/MTPmXYY

The coin counter reads 47! The cab is quite clean and good looking overall, except the PCB area. I took out the mold ridden PCB board and will cut a new one. Going to do a deep cleaning of the PCB area this weekend.

Monitor looks great, it's a PFX rather than the Tosh PF but I'm quite happy with it.
 
kuze said:
So the HOT would make that "turning over" sound not the flyback on the Windy?
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Right. Should be able to prove that by rolling a piece of paper like a tube, and putting it over the HOT and putting your ear on the other end, if that makes sense. If it were the flyback I'd be /very/ surprised. But hunt around by isolating different components on the chassis that way, and you'll find out for sure. That rear hatch should make it fairly easy if you get a larger than notebook piece of paper.

Hurrah for low coin count!

The Domy Theater has over 140,000!
 
Post pics of the HOT, its location, and the part number when you guys find out. Mine chirps too, collapses horizontally, rebounds, the repeats. Gotta be the HOT? Didn't visit the Windy II and Egret II this week. Will do that when my buddy gets back next week. Will pull the chassis then.

Not looking forward to recapping this one. 51 total caps!!
 
Chirping can be caused by a bad HOT, bad VR or the flyback could be going. I recommended a bad HOT on Kuze because of the click sound. Vertical collapse is usually a sign that you need a cap kit.

I'd recommend the same thing as the others. Replace the HOT and do a full cap kit. The hot is easy to identify, as on JP monitors it's usually attached to the metal shielding around the flyback.
 
Before simply replace part you can easily check hot function with diode setting in multimeter. Can be checked like most transistor bce. They will blow short when bad. Can first check in circuit quick and easily. If it's good it's good, if it test bad then pull part from circuit by either remove or isolate pin and retest to confirm bad part not bad circuit :-).
 
brad808 said:
Before simply replace part you can easily check hot function with diode setting in multimeter. Can be checked like most transistor bce. They will blow short when bad. Can first check in circuit quick and easily. If it's good it's good, if it test bad then pull part from circuit by either remove or isolate pin and retest to confirm bad part not bad circuit :-).
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There are several things they can check sure. For most folks though this is a task they're both not familiar nor comfortable with, which is why sending it in for service is usually the best and easiest option. I'm also quick to recommend repair in this situation as I've never received a fully functioning chassis from Yaton.
 
I've recapped and repaired a ton of chassis. Mostly K7000's. Watched Randy Fromm's training video on Youtube. But this is the first experience with the Toshiba PB7534. There isn't a manual for that anywhere to be found. No idea what the part numbers are for the HOT, VR, Flyback. I'll figure it out when I see it again next week. But knowing what the part numbers now helps with the search to source the parts.
 
I will probably follow @radiantsvgun and send my Toshiba PB7534 chassis to Sharp and go ahead and have them swap the HOT, do a full cap replacement and check the flyback. Hopefully they can figure out the beeping sound too or it will be fixed by one of the above if lucky.

Going to finish cleaning up the E2 and NNC this weekend and get them in the game room. The Windy 2 will be a longer term project.

Huge thanks again to @XeD for arranging the group buy and @Cereth for handling the importing and shipping - very much appreciate all the work and time you have both put into this.
 
@kuze I just dropped mine off. It’s kind of a pain to get out, but hoping sharp can get it sorted. I may pull my monitor now to get in there for a deeper clean.
 
radiantsvgun said:
@kuze I just dropped mine off. It’s kind of a pain to get out, but hoping sharp can get it sorted. I may pull my monitor now to get in there for a deeper clean.
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Nice, fingers crossed. I was thinking I would have to pull the monitor to discharge and remove the chassis. How did you go about it?

Also the other day I started to remove the maintenance hatch panel until I noticed it has a huge vent that goes over the neck and there looked to be a grounding wire screwed to the inside of the vent which requires consideration. Decided to put it back and wait for a second pair of hands to remove that screw without accidentally necking the monitor or something.
 
@kuze I accessed from the back panel. You have to be super careful because the monitor neck is in the way. Besides the chassis screws, there’s two additional screws for the vga port. If you’re careful it will come out no problem.
 
radiantsvgun said:
@kuze I accessed from the back panel. You have to be super careful because the monitor neck is in the way. Besides the chassis screws, there’s two additional screws for the vga port. If you’re careful it will come out no problem.
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Right on, it sounds like it may actually be easier/safer to just pull the tube first - would you agree having just done it the other way?
 
If you pull the tube, get some help. There’s a wide area of things to go wrong doing it alone.
 
would this work for a windy2 its a blast city psu supposedly by rivercity
IbpFpH2.jpg
 
Any psu will work if you rewire it. I don’t know if Riverservice still makes those, I asked last year and they said they didn’t.
 
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