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FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

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If you pull the chassis first, it's an easy one man job to pull the tube. I just did this today and swapped 8bit's tube out for something less absolutely destroyed with burn-in.

And it's WAY easier to pull the chassis out the rear than contemplate pulling the tube at the same time. 100x easier at least. Otherwise you'd be trying to pull the tube while also pulling the chassis out the front with it, still attached, behind it. It would be a mess.
 
acblunden2 said:
Did you one man-jobbed the monitor pull?
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Yeah, I had already removed the chassis and sent it out so it wasn’t too bad. You do need to be careful with the exposed neck, but really it’s just remove screws, lift and pull directly back. Getting it back in is actually more difficult, and it’s probably easier if you lay it on it’s back.
 
Sharper Image doesn't repair monitors, but they do sell tie organizers and massage chairs.

Seriously, Sharp Image Repair charged me $125 plus shipping to and from. That was a few years ago, so it may be more now. They will diagnose the issue for free and if they can't fix it will just charge shipping back.
 
It depends on what they have to do and if they can fix it. I’ve heard horror stories about these chassis so hopefully it is fixable.
 
I pulled the maintenance hatch from my Windy and there was no fan installed, but after the monitor is fixed I'll add one.

Checked for neck glow and not getting any. Hopefully Sharp can fix both our chassis. I didn't pull the chassis yet but I'll definitely do it from the back. Checking it out from the maintenance hatch it looks pretty rough, hopefully it's salvageable.
 
My buddy finally gets back this week. So will check out the cabs and will finally get to take my Egret II home by next weekend.

A few of things for me to follow-up on now that my friend is back:

Windy City II
  1. See if positioning the jumpers to 2L12B allows it to recognize the NAOMI
    • If not, need to look into repairs of the I/O
  2. Tearing down and cleaning the sucker
    • That thing stinks something awful
  3. Pull the chassis and look for the part number for the HOT, report that back here
  4. Buy the cap kit for the Windy City II
Egret II
  1. Pull the PSU and look to recap it
    • If after the recap, it still doesn't work right, it will be replaced permanently with a Peter Chou
  2. 2-man jobbing the rotate mech, make sure it is all clear
  3. Do some tiny convergence calibrations with the TPG
  4. Will hit the yellow spots with Citristrip this time around
    • Goof Off and paint thinner didn't do a thing to it
    • Look into repainting the whole thing when the weather is better
  5. Tear it down and clean the sucker
    • Time to buy Simple Green by the bucket load
  6. Repro the side art with my buddy's printer that can do metallic ink
    • I asked Hatsune Mike if he can critique the side art once it gets printed and he can provide feedback then
    • Maybe let Birdman chime in as well here
  7. Look into repro'ing the Egret II illuminated panel
rewrite said:
I just did this today and swapped 8bit's tube out for something less absolutely destroyed with burn-in.
Click to expand...
Will the swap retain tri-sync functionality?
 
acblunden2 said:
Will the swap retain tri-sync functionality?
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Depends which chassis he pairs with it. Could go either way. Sanwa 29e31s means 31k only, Rodotron means he keeps tri-sync. Up to him, I just offered the tube since it was kicking around anyway.
 
@acblunden2 get a mask. I have been cleaning that cabinet since Thursday; and when you start cutting through all that grime, mold, mildew, and cig smoke, the caked in smell comes out with a vengeance.
 
I wasn't part of the group buy but I've been dealing with a pair of Windy IIs for years. Basically the chassis are total pricks to deal with, no one wants to repair them. I'm out about 600 trying to get the originals repaired before I just sent them to Jomac for parts, basically the arcade operator who said he could do it just took my money, tried a few times and then started ducking my calls.

In the the end I replaced them with Nanao 2934s and just lived with 31khz only.
 
Lifted the hood on the E2 today to remove the CP. Didn't see any mold on the rotation mech wood and it appears to be in good shape. Don't know if I mentioned before but the wooden back door on my E2 had mold, but it wasn't nearly as bad as the mounting board. I cleaned it thoroughly with mold killer and let it sit out in the sun for a day before reinstalling on the cab.

When I lifted the hood the fluorescent bulb dropped down behind and against the tube so I had to fish it out from behind there stuck in the rotation mech frame.

Anyone have a link to a working replacement bulb? Does it need a starter too?

If anyone is curious, the allen wrench size needed to remove the CP is a 7/32. I was surprised none of my metric hex sizes fit.

After moving the E2 into the game room, the monitor no longer makes any weird sounds so that's great! I suspect the loose fluorescent bulb may have caused it to act up before.

Found about twenty or so "AMUSE 21" tokens between the Windy and E2 so far. Tried a token on Ketsui and realized the directional controls are wrong, will have to take a look at the wiring. They seem to have been hacked/patched at some point.
 
20w, 580mm, T8 diameter. Can pick them up at Home Depot.

It uses a starter. Yours may still be good, won't know until you get the new bulb.
 
Thamiel said:
I wasn't part of the group buy but I've been dealing with a pair of Windy IIs for years. Basically the chassis are total pricks to deal with, no one wants to repair them. I'm out about 600 trying to get the originals repaired before I just sent them to Jomac for parts, basically the arcade operator who said he could do it just took my money, tried a few times and then started ducking my calls.

In the the end I replaced them with Nanao 2934s and just lived with 31khz only.
Click to expand...
Were these just a drop in?
 
radiantsvgun said:
Were these just a drop in?
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Physically, yes (I have 3 in my storage, alongside 8bit's Windy). Take the tube and chassis off of the frame, drop in.

Have to change some connectors around for it to work though.
 
rewrite said:
acblunden2 said:
Will the swap retain tri-sync functionality?
Click to expand...
Depends which chassis he pairs with it. Could go either way. Sanwa 29e31s means 31k only, Rodotron means he keeps tri-sync. Up to him, I just offered the tube since it was kicking around anyway.
Click to expand...
ya depends what im going to do. Im buying rodo66a chassis but I also bought a capkit for the 29e31s and had it sent to rewrite. Anyone swapping tubes I recommend a jammafier. Im going to try both chassis and see how the quality is. Only thing is we cant proceed on the windy2 till the psu is fixed. I wish i was in LA to help rewrite with all this hes a real champ.
btw i think i have a problem lol im already thinking of what 2 cabs to get next. impress/ac/nac/aero cant decide. q25 would be at the top of my choice but i well probably never see one ever.
 
I'm 99% sure you can use an MS9-29 chassis on an E31s tube/yoke combination. If you primarily will be playing JAMMA boards, that may be a good option. I do not have a lot of good things to say about the Rodotron 666A / Wei-Ya / Whatever Makvision tried to call it / etc.
 
Hatsune Mike said:
I'm 99% sure you can use an MS9-29 chassis on an E31s tube/yoke combination. If you primarily will be playing JAMMA boards, that may be a good option. I do not have a lot of good things to say about the Rodotron 666A / Wei-Ya / Whatever Makvision tried to call it / etc.
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ya i heard stuff also. Sharp image is repairing it and sending it out. I would like to keep the windy jvs also. I well think about a ms9-29 if i can find one. Doesnt hurt to have options.
 
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