FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

[benime]

Digikey wants $14 each with no price break for bulk orders.

Mouser has them also and provides a price break, but these guys have a low-ish MOQ and the lowest price of the bunch. No telling if they'll honor that price though if you go for a quote.

https://www.sager.com/cr7e-56da-3-96e-5017673.html

 

[Apocalypse]

Monitor repairers don't repair the flybacks. I've never heard of someone actually opening one up to rewind it.

Ok I'm just trying to understand.
So the difficulty is opening them? I guess plastic is either glued or hot assembled.

 

[Lemony Vengeance]

@[u]@Lemony Vengeance[/u] worddddd. maybe add in that extra 5v on pin D? (One reference I found on the non-jamma-ness of the egret 2 https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=28853)

I would be using a standard blue 56 pin edge connector and all required pins would be populated. the Hirose edge connectors we all know and love are no longer manufactured, and Sanwa knows this. They're selling them for $8 a pop + shipping on Rakuten :/ anyone have ones they like?

They had a tray of brand new CR7E 56DA connectors at JAEPO that sold quickly.
You'll have to pay a bit more, and consider minimum quantity and lead time, but it is an active part and you can still place an order: https://www.digikey.com/product-det...td/CR7E-56DA-3.96E/CR7E-56DA-3.96E-ND/8561489

0

Quantity Available

not happening, can't buy something that isn't in stock

FYI, here's the link to Sanwa's shop on Rakuten:
https://global.rakuten.com/en/store/sanwadenshi/item/other_011/

 

[twistedsymphony]

So the difficulty is opening them? I guess plastic is either glued or hot assembled.

I'm assuming you don't have much experience with them? they're basically a plastic housing with multiple transformer windings, sometime a large cap inside and then they're filled with epoxy or some other kind of potting material. They're very much not serviceable.

here's a picture of one:

you can see the bottom of this flyback housing is filled with white epoxy

 

[Lemony Vengeance]

agreed 100%. They're NOT user serviceable.

btw.. "transformer wingdings" made me laugh. It's too late/early for me right now.

 

[twistedsymphony]

btw.. "transformer wingdings" made me laugh. It's too late/early for me right now

man, I'm half-asleep myself

 

[Hatsune Mike]

@[u]@Lemony Vengeance[/u] worddddd. maybe add in that extra 5v on pin D? (One reference I found on the non-jamma-ness of the egret 2 https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=28853)

I would be using a standard blue 56 pin edge connector and all required pins would be populated. the Hirose edge connectors we all know and love are no longer manufactured, and Sanwa knows this. They're selling them for $8 a pop + shipping on Rakuten :/ anyone have ones they like?

They had a tray of brand new CR7E 56DA connectors at JAEPO that sold quickly.You'll have to pay a bit more, and consider minimum quantity and lead time, but it is an active part and you can still place an order: https://www.digikey.com/product-det...td/CR7E-56DA-3.96E/CR7E-56DA-3.96E-ND/8561489

Quantity Available

0

not happening, can't buy something that isn't in stock

FYI, here's the link to Sanwa's shop on Rakuten:
https://global.rakuten.com/en/store/sanwadenshi/item/other_011/

I don't mean to beat a dead horse, but that's why it says "Manufacturer Lead Time: 16 weeks", and you absolutely can place an order. It just takes sixteen weeks.

By all means, use another easily found connector, but I'm pointing out that they are still manufactured and you can purchase them.

 

[Apocalypse]

I'm assuming you don't have much experience with them?

That's absolutely that, I've never tried to open one. I'm genuinely eager to understand what makes them unfixeable.
Thanks for the detailed explanation.

 

[Darksoft]

That epoxy is a PITA. I'm confident though that there must be a compatible flyback or one that can replace it with minimum modification of the chasis.

 

[RealMFnG]

I know security0001 (owner of arcadepartsandrepair.com) has Wells Gardner K7000 flybacks produced as well as a number of other flybacks. Let me post make a post over on KLOV and ask the old-timers there.

 

[ekorz]

Ok so I bought an LED lamp for the e2 marquee. If it runs well with the 100v I’ll let you all know what brand etc.

Anyone have a grease suggestion for the rotation mech? Otherwise I’ll just buy some general purpose stuff and report back how that worked.

 

[twistedsymphony]

if it uses roller/ball bearings then some automotive "Bearing grease" would likely be ideal.

if you want to get all professional about it you can clean out all the old grease with some "brake clean" and then "re-pack" it with the fresh grease using a grease packing tool ( a small plastic tray thing that looks like an orange juicer, used to force the fresh grease into all the crevices of the bearing). All of this should be readily available at your local auto parts store and it's what I do to clean up old bearings when I work on my cars.

I should note that I also work for a bearing manufacturer at my day job so I know way more about bearings than a normal person should

if it's not using roller bearings then... I'd have to know more about the design to make a suggestion

 

[RealMFnG]

So here is the KLOV thread regarding flyback reproduction. security0001 is chiming in already with his experiences.

 

[ekorz]

@twistedsymphony no ball bearings, sorry to kill your buzz...

https://imgur.com/a/5ztms5S

Just some smooth sleeves over the bolts, rotating around hard (nylon?) wheels. There is one that’s longer than the rest, and it bolts through a back plate with a 90 degree arc cutout, so it can only rotate 90 degrees.

I’d grease the whole back plate, all the wheels, and the bolts... probably using general purpose stuff but I’m totally open for better ideas!

 

[kuze]

So here is the KLOV thread regarding flyback reproduction. security0001 is chiming in already with his experiences.

It doesn't sound very hopeful at actually getting a working result, but the 200 minimum pieces doesn't sound THAT daunting if they end up being truly around ~$7/piece delivered.

Honestly I'd buy a good working NOS one for $100... so if I'd need to get 14 instead at $7/pop I'd be totally fine with that. Then I'd have some spares to let go at price for anyone that needs one down the road, and plenty of spares for myself.

I think between all of us that got Windy 2's in this buy, we could easily hit the order minimum.

 

[ekorz]

My LED lamp seems to be fine with the 100v step down. I screwed the old brackets right into the case, and added some bolts to the inside. Seems stable. Very happy with it! $15 on sale at home depot. (Don't mind the tape on the sides of the marquee...)

 

[RealMFnG]

My LED lamp seems to be fine with the 100v step down. I screwed the old brackets right into the case, and added some bolts to the inside. Seems stable. Very happy with it! $15 on sale at home depot. (Don't mind the tape on the sides of the marquee...)

I am showing a price of $24.97. Where is the sale price listed at? Or did it end?

 

[Lemony Vengeance]

@[u]@Lemony Vengeance[/u] worddddd. maybe add in that extra 5v on pin D? (One reference I found on the non-jamma-ness of the egret 2 https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=28853)

I would be using a standard blue 56 pin edge connector and all required pins would be populated. the Hirose edge connectors we all know and love are no longer manufactured, and Sanwa knows this. They're selling them for $8 a pop + shipping on Rakuten :/ anyone have ones they like?

They had a tray of brand new CR7E 56DA connectors at JAEPO that sold quickly.You'll have to pay a bit more, and consider minimum quantity and lead time, but it is an active part and you can still place an order: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/CR7E-56DA-3.96E/CR7E-56DA-3.96E-ND/8561489

Quantity Available

0

not happening, can't buy something that isn't in stock

FYI, here's the link to Sanwa's shop on Rakuten:
https://global.rakuten.com/en/store/sanwadenshi/item/other_011/

I don't mean to beat a dead horse, but that's why it says "Manufacturer Lead Time: 16 weeks", and you absolutely can place an order. It just takes sixteen weeks.
By all means, use another easily found connector, but I'm pointing out that they are still manufactured and you can purchase them.

should have just done this in the first place, and I know I'm being a pedant here:

https://www.hirose.com/product/p/CL0507-0092-4-01?lang=en

They're discontinued.

 

[ekorz]

My LED lamp seems to be fine with the 100v step down. I screwed the old brackets right into the case, and added some bolts to the inside. Seems stable. Very happy with it! $15 on sale at home depot. (Don't mind the tape on the sides of the marquee...)

I am showing a price of $24.97. Where is the sale price listed at? Or did it end?

Still shows at 40%off for me when I follow that link

 

[BlinG]

My LED lamp seems to be fine with the 100v step down. I screwed the old brackets right into the case, and added some bolts to the inside. Seems stable. Very happy with it! $15 on sale at home depot. (Don't mind the tape on the sides of the marquee...)

I have you tried doing the LED bulb trick by using a starter with a fuse in place? It would allow you to use original lamp housing without hacking away any of the wiring.

Edit: Here's the original thread about it on arcade otaku. I have this set up in both my Blast Cities and it looks great. No more flickering and interfering with the monitor.