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I've made a few wiring looms for cabs that haven't had them and I can never get them looking as nice as whatever wiring comes as stock, so personally, I wouldn't replace it.

3) even my wiring smells, im considering just doing it all over.
Wash it. Take it out, let it sit in some warm water and Simple Green, hose it down and leave it out to dry.
 
I’ll try soaking it, I did hose it down a lot of my harness is wrapped in plastic sheathes that just didn’t get clean. Maybe I’ll cut those off...
 
@[u]@Lemony Vengeance[/u] worddddd. maybe add in that extra 5v on pin D? (One reference I found on the non-jamma-ness of the egret 2 https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=28853)
I would be using a standard blue 56 pin edge connector and all required pins would be populated. the Hirose edge connectors we all know and love are no longer manufactured, and Sanwa knows this. They're selling them for $8 a pop + shipping on Rakuten :/

anyone have ones they like?
 
@[u]@Lemony Vengeance[/u] worddddd. maybe add in that extra 5v on pin D? (One reference I found on the non-jamma-ness of the egret 2 https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=28853)
I would be using a standard blue 56 pin edge connector and all required pins would be populated. the Hirose edge connectors we all know and love are no longer manufactured, and Sanwa knows this. They're selling them for $8 a pop + shipping on Rakuten :/
anyone have ones they like?
They had a tray of brand new CR7E 56DA connectors at JAEPO that sold quickly.

You'll have to pay a bit more, and consider minimum quantity and lead time, but it is an active part and you can still place an order: https://www.digikey.com/product-det...td/CR7E-56DA-3.96E/CR7E-56DA-3.96E-ND/8561489
 
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Can the flybacks on the Windy be rebuilt? Or a replacement made. These guys supposedly make custom flybacks https://www.customcoils.com/flyback-transformers/ no idea what something like this would cost , if possible.
I'm quite surprised they said flyback couldn't be repaired. How hard is it to rewind a flyback transformer? I've done all sorts of rewinding before on electrical motors, transformers and all kinds of coils. There was only 2 factors to be considered: gauge and number of windings.

Also in general I have the feeling that most repairers only work at tech level. One recent example is those OutRun repairers that can't fix a board with a dead PCM chip.
 
Monitor repairers don't repair the flybacks. I've never heard of someone actually opening one up to rewind it.
 
Monitor repairers don't repair the flybacks. I've never heard of someone actually opening one up to rewind it.
Ok I'm just trying to understand.
So the difficulty is opening them? I guess plastic is either glued or hot assembled.
 
@[u]@Lemony Vengeance[/u] worddddd. maybe add in that extra 5v on pin D? (One reference I found on the non-jamma-ness of the egret 2 https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=28853)
I would be using a standard blue 56 pin edge connector and all required pins would be populated. the Hirose edge connectors we all know and love are no longer manufactured, and Sanwa knows this. They're selling them for $8 a pop + shipping on Rakuten :/ anyone have ones they like?
They had a tray of brand new CR7E 56DA connectors at JAEPO that sold quickly.
You'll have to pay a bit more, and consider minimum quantity and lead time, but it is an active part and you can still place an order: https://www.digikey.com/product-det...td/CR7E-56DA-3.96E/CR7E-56DA-3.96E-ND/8561489
0

Quantity Available


not happening, can't buy something that isn't in stock :(

FYI, here's the link to Sanwa's shop on Rakuten:
https://global.rakuten.com/en/store/sanwadenshi/item/other_011/
 
So the difficulty is opening them? I guess plastic is either glued or hot assembled.
I'm assuming you don't have much experience with them? they're basically a plastic housing with multiple transformer windings, sometime a large cap inside and then they're filled with epoxy or some other kind of potting material. They're very much not serviceable.

here's a picture of one:
flyback%20transformer%20pinout.jpg


you can see the bottom of this flyback housing is filled with white epoxy
 
@[u]@Lemony Vengeance[/u] worddddd. maybe add in that extra 5v on pin D? (One reference I found on the non-jamma-ness of the egret 2 https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=28853)
I would be using a standard blue 56 pin edge connector and all required pins would be populated. the Hirose edge connectors we all know and love are no longer manufactured, and Sanwa knows this. They're selling them for $8 a pop + shipping on Rakuten :/ anyone have ones they like?
They had a tray of brand new CR7E 56DA connectors at JAEPO that sold quickly.You'll have to pay a bit more, and consider minimum quantity and lead time, but it is an active part and you can still place an order: https://www.digikey.com/product-det...td/CR7E-56DA-3.96E/CR7E-56DA-3.96E-ND/8561489
Quantity Available
0
not happening, can't buy something that isn't in stock :(

FYI, here's the link to Sanwa's shop on Rakuten:
https://global.rakuten.com/en/store/sanwadenshi/item/other_011/
I don't mean to beat a dead horse, but that's why it says "Manufacturer Lead Time: 16 weeks", and you absolutely can place an order. It just takes sixteen weeks.

By all means, use another easily found connector, but I'm pointing out that they are still manufactured and you can purchase them.
 
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That epoxy is a PITA. I'm confident though that there must be a compatible flyback or one that can replace it with minimum modification of the chasis.
 
I know security0001 (owner of arcadepartsandrepair.com) has Wells Gardner K7000 flybacks produced as well as a number of other flybacks. Let me post make a post over on KLOV and ask the old-timers there.
 
Ok so I bought an LED lamp for the e2 marquee. If it runs well with the 100v I’ll let you all know what brand etc.

Anyone have a grease suggestion for the rotation mech? Otherwise I’ll just buy some general purpose stuff and report back how that worked.
 
if it uses roller/ball bearings then some automotive "Bearing grease" would likely be ideal.

if you want to get all professional about it you can clean out all the old grease with some "brake clean" and then "re-pack" it with the fresh grease using a grease packing tool ( a small plastic tray thing that looks like an orange juicer, used to force the fresh grease into all the crevices of the bearing). All of this should be readily available at your local auto parts store and it's what I do to clean up old bearings when I work on my cars.

I should note that I also work for a bearing manufacturer at my day job so I know way more about bearings than a normal person should :P

if it's not using roller bearings then... I'd have to know more about the design to make a suggestion
 
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