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Minigun Supergun - An Open Source Supergun

So a question about sync for the Taito F3. I know this probably isn't really the place to ask, but if i were to connect my F3 to my consumer TV using the minigun, could it possibly damage my TV if there's a sync level problem?
 
@Frank_fjs
the front plate has holes in it to be attached to the jamma edge
v18.PNG

but unfortunately I forgot to make cutouts for the nut in the sides. I've just added this in the last revision.

side.PNG

I'll order another case for testing purpurses and after that I'll release the files.

To act as a second anchor point the top and bottom plates needed to be extended in the front, to make channels for the top and bottom standoffs from the front plate (like the sides).

Something like this:

bottom_fixed_frontplate.png


top_fixed_frontplate.png
 
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That is so clever. Thanks for working on this, I'm definitely going to order some when you release the files.

The service and test switches are available with longer buttons, I wonder if there's one high enough to protrude through the top of the plexi holes? Could do the same witb the audio header, use longer pins etc.
 
It should be possible to 3d print some extension and glue it on the button or simply use switches with longer buttons. SInce the front is open you can reach the mono header and service and test Longer headers should also work or go back to the switch option. It's possible to reach the buttons with a flat head screw driver.

Right now I'm adding the additional support for the front plate
 
Hi all,

Regarding PSUs. Would a regular off the shelf ATX power supply work if directly connected to the 6 pin molex connector? assuming the 20/24 pin was jumped?

Thanks.
 
You'd need to make an adapting harness, to go from the 20/24 pin ATX to the 6 pin connector on the Minigun, and as you mention ground the ON switch pin, then yes it will work.
 
kinox51 said:
Hey Guys,

I've started to "design" a plexiglas-case for the minigun a few days ago.
Disclaimer: I've never done any case modelling or anything like that before. I've just barely managed to design that in Fusion360.
Here are the results for the first prototype:

IMG_0664.jpg
IMG_0666.jpg
IMG_0668.jpg


This is designed specifically to work with the plexi-case I have for my mv1c.
After first assemble I already found two mistakes I need to fix - thats for the next version.

I will release the Fusion files as soon as I have managed to fix the mistakes. After that everyone can modify the files for their needs.

@Frank_fjs: Thank you very much for all your hard work!

- kinox51
Click to expand...
Nice enclosure for the M1c. How thick is the plexiglass that you used?
 
Hey there,

here is the latest revision of the case:
v21_1.PNG
v21_2.PNG

New are the cutouts for the screws in the sidepanels (to mount the Jamma Connector), the support for the front panel at the top and bottom and minor fixes with the mountingholes.
I've just ordered one of these to see it in person and test fit it.
It should work with all revision advanced boards up to v. 2.1 (the last one I have) - the new 4+5 button switch-cutout is not implemented yet. If anybody can give me some measurements I could add it :)
 
@kinox51

A6H-410x.jpg

Untitled.png


Using the above picture as a reference, the switch is located:

22.5mm from the LEFT hand edge
10.6mm from the BOTTOM edge

Coordinates taken from center point of switch.

P.s. your case looks amazing.
 
Oh, I like those trimpots a lot!
Which ones are they? Need to put some of those on my Minigun as well.
 
Could anyone write the proper pinout for the v2.5 6 pin power connector.

pcbs will arrive monday and already super excited. Started on the wiring to make things go faster
 
Hey,

the 2nd revision case hasn't arrived yet, but I've taken the time to add the new switch cutout. Nothing major but here is the new revision^^

p1b4p2b4.PNG

I've taken your measurements @Frank_fjs so when the new case fits the cutout should fit, too.

I'll keep you updated :)
 
vidarw said:
Could anyone write the proper pinout for the v2.5 6 pin power connector.

pcbs will arrive monday and already super excited. Started on the wiring to make things go faster
Click to expand...
You'll find pinout printed on the underside of the pcb.
And if you want to start directly - look at the "SCHEMATIC_CONNECTORS.pdf" provided in the .zip

Here are pictures of a finished cable:

6pin.jpg
6pin1.jpg

1.PNG
Quoting @acblunden2:

American wring color scheme is:
  • Ground = Black
  • +5vdc = Red
  • +12vdc = Yellow
  • -5vdc = Blue (typically)
Japanese wiring color scheme (by Sega standards) is:

  • Ground = White
  • +5vdc = Yellow
  • +12vdc = Red
  • -5vdc = Brown
 
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@kinox51 Thanks. Got the schematics from the zip as well. Just to verify. Pin 1 is down to the right when the tap is facing upwards (your first picture)?
 
Yes, thats correct.
I've edited my post and gut the corresponding pins on the connector ;)
 
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