You're talking a foot in extra wire, probably more. None of these lines are likely to have that much slack. Putting the chassis on the wall or bottom of the cab are very likely to not work out without modifying things. But at least you're measuring and in this instance we'll know. But it still introduces the risk of necking the tube when rotating as some people have found out with E2's that they didn't run the wires right on.
hursit asked for measurements of the wires. I'll take them and pass them on and let him do his magic. I'm not solutioning or designing this, hursit is. Just helping out.
And several people have said you're incorrect in this. That's conflicting information.We need to be figure out who's right, not just "I'm right, I've seen it a bunch of times.". Because when both sides do that, someone is going to be wrong, and it's probably going to be the one that gets followed because that's just Murphy's Law.
I've mentioned seeing the K7000 ground to both the frame and the chassis. But at about 4:1, my experience is the K7000 is grounded to the chassis instead of the frame. Then sometimes not at all. In either of those two cases of being grounded, the ultimate common ground point for the monitor is the dog ears of the tube.
- If grounding to the frame, the frame mounts to the dog ears of the tube
- If grounding to the chassis, the mainboard is grounded through wires to the neckboard->DAG wire->ground strap. Then the ground strap with a tension spring between wraps around the dog ears of the tube
The several people that say I am wrong, let's have them produce evidence otherwise. Let's see those photos.
You seem too comfortable throwing things out there as "should be fine", but an assumption on your part is not good enough for 40 people to lay down $1500 over. I'm a firm believer that it's better to know than it is to assume.
If it seems that way, that is because I am. Some people are bolder than others. Some people are more risk adverse. I am the former; you are the latter. That's cool. People are just driven differently. As for the rest of everyone that has already paid the deposit, I don't see any of those folks asking for a refund yet. The situation as it stands isn't good enough for you because you aren't a risk taking person.
I've never bought from trust hursit but trust he'll deliver. I can see the passion the guy has. I certainly trust Cereth. We are all helping out here and want to see this through. Have faith.
Is this not, almost exactly what a frame is? It's big metal bit, fastened to tube, that holds the chassis. Which is what we've been talking about, and hursit has been talking about redesigning.
Maybe, but let's just pass the info and resources to hursit and let him solution it.
I have a dozen times said "I don't know if it would fit with the frame". So I'm a little lost as to where I confirmed anything of the sort. I haven't even had a frame to test with. Which was the /entire point/ of you doing so with that local Cute. It was the entire point of rg111 shipping his.
I am going to take my WG 19K7000 to my buddy's place and do some fitment tests & measurements, then pass the info to hursit. I was thinking in doing so, I'd save folks the trouble of shipping the frame 100's and 1000's of miles; again, to be helpful. Don't know why that is being misconstrued as otherwise. I offered to ship my entire K7000 to hursit in DM. He said it can't be done due to import/export laws of certain used items into Turkey. If you can get the frame to him, that would be helpful.
I'm not even trying to be rude, but are you reading what I write? Because saying this just screams "I only read part of what you wrote then decided to reply". Because I have honestly said this over a dozen times now that I have not had a frame to test with.
Here's one of those times that you would have read just last night before making your post:
As for the frame, of course I read what you wrote last night. That's why I am taking my monitor to my buddy's to do fitment tests with and without the frame, with the imagination of the mount points not being there (as you said). If you did it already, you wouldn't be asking me to do this, obviously. hursit also asked me for some info on this and will help him get it.
I'll be honest though, I haven't read the 11 other times that you said you don't have the frame.
You do know that all Sega cabs have ungrounded monitors? It's not a risk like you think it is.
Not all. Net City's and New Net City's are grounded.The monitors are mounted to metal frames and the metal frame is grounded. And if you are using a grounded ATX plug, you are properly grounded.
I always ground my cabs and monitors if they are not grounded. Better safe than sorry. Honestly, I started this because when getting into the hobby originally, the AC plugs on the US woodies I was buying were always worn out. Just needed to be replaced with a new AC plug. So much easier to get a grounded AC plug than a non-grounded AC plug these days. So that's how the practice started because all the info I was reading on it when I was a complete newb scared the hell out of me. After having been shocked a few times working on monitors, it still does. So I don't mess around and always ground my cabs and monitors.
How I do this for like the E2 and NAC and the like is without much modification. There is a grounding screw pin on the 120v->100v step down convertor I use. I just run a ground wire from that to the common ground of the cab. Put a connector in between for easy disconnection. The original AC plug is left intact.