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Home Arcade System

I have a HAS that is showing no sync on the OSSC, I cycled through all AV inputs and sync types. Here's my set up:

1. Using the RGB recommended 1:1 mini din8 cable, goes from HAS to HD15 adapter and plugged into AV3 on OSSC, no audio cable
2. dip switches underneath is set to on for 1 and 2, which is 75ohm and LPF on
3. Turned the RGB dial so that it's around 500ohm in resistance measured with multimeter.
4. SW1 for audio set to JAMMA
5. SW3 set to buffered for sync
6. This whole thing is plugged into a known good MVS MV1 board with no cart. I tested with a different supergun on AV1, it works
7. 5V was adjusted to 5.05V at the HAS before power up to MVS board.
8. I do not have -5V hooked up from my RT-65 power supply as this board does't need it.

Did I miss anything? This is my first time using the HAS. Also, for #3, how do I know how to set the brightness? There's no way to see the RGB level without a scope, or at least measure the resistance without unhooking everything. I can't really just turn the dial willy-nilly while in-game I imagine? How can I make sure I don't fry the OSSC? Any help would be appreciated!
 
rcboosted said:
I have a HAS that is showing no sync on the OSSC, I cycled through all AV inputs and sync types. Here's my set up:

1. Using the RGB recommended 1:1 mini din8 cable, goes from HAS to HD15 adapter and plugged into AV3 on OSSC, no audio cable
2. dip switches underneath is set to on for 1 and 2, which is 75ohm and LPF on
3. Turned the RGB dial so that it's around 500ohm in resistance measured with multimeter.
4. SW1 for audio set to JAMMA
5. SW3 set to buffered for sync
6. This whole thing is plugged into a known good MVS MV1 board with no cart. I tested with a different supergun on AV1, it works
7. 5V was adjusted to 5.05V at the HAS before power up to MVS board.
8. I do not have -5V hooked up from my RT-65 power supply as this board does't need it.

Did I miss anything? This is my first time using the HAS. Also, for #3, how do I know how to set the brightness? There's no way to see the RGB level without a scope, or at least measure the resistance without unhooking everything. I can't really just turn the dial willy-nilly while in-game I imagine? How can I make sure I don't fry the OSSC? Any help would be appreciated!
Click to expand...
Ive got signal with HAS + this scart cable + OSSC for only CPS2 stuff on my Samsung Smart TV (UE50NU7472). I've tried lately also a Gaelco pcb (Biomechanical Toy) & P-47 (Jaleco Mega System 1) , Taito F3 multi and for these , no luck with them through OSSC. I must admit , i'm not good with handled OSSC (ive sold my Framemeister and i thought OSSC will replace him without problems , but i was wrong) + other devices through him because i play through crt most of the time (i still like that experience) and that's why maybe my reply can't help you too much ! I also have Retrotink2X but i don't have yet a 8 pin din to component to connect and test through him !
 
I use the specific cable recommended by RGB, so it should work. I have retro-access cable ordered, but who knows when they'll ever ship. Just now I tried again with a VGA cable and the VGA hat. Then tried regenerated CSync as well and turned off LPF (switched while powered off), still no sync. Also tried on a MV1B with the same results. Maybe I miss something in OSSC set up perhaps?

I'm reading this post that I should sets csync to TTL. https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/home-arcade-system.332/post-255354

but the manual specifically says not to use TTL for OSSC.
 
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rcboosted said:
I use the specific cable recommended by RGB, so it should work. I have retro-access cable ordered, but who knows when they'll ever ship. Just now I tried again with a VGA cable and the VGA hat. Then tried regenerated CSync as well and turned off LPF (switched while powered off), still no sync. Maybe I miss something in OSSC set up perhaps?

I'm reading this post that I should sets csync to TTL. https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/home-arcade-system.332/post-255354

but the manual specifically says not to use TTL for OSSC.
Click to expand...
When you get absolutely no sync with the OSSC, could you please try these settings?

Sync OPT. -> H-PLL Post-Coast - 2 lines
Sync OPT. -> Hsync Tolerance - 8.30us
 
AlxUnderBase said:
Gaelco pcb (Biomechanical Toy) Taito F3 multi and for these , no luck with them through OSSC.
Click to expand...
For Biomechanical Toy it works with my HAS with the CSync mode switch (SW2) set to Regenerated U (unprocessed), but that is going to a consumer CRT with an RGB to Component switch.

For Taito F3 multi, it ONLY works via AV3 on the OSSC, so if you don't have the HD15 adapter, it won't work at all for you.

There are only a few PCBs my HAS won't seem to work with. One I remember off the top of my head is Buccaneers.

https://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=13394

The OSSC on the other hand, has a lot of trouble with certain PCBs, those Toaplan ones for example...

@AlxUnderBase if you need me to check my Biomechanical Toy with OSSC let me know. I think I've used it like that before, but can't fully remember.

EDIT: Correction, CSync was set to U (unprocessed) to get Biomechanical Toy to work.
 
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rcboosted said:
I have a HAS that is showing no sync on the OSSC, I cycled through all AV inputs and sync types. Here's my set up:

1. Using the RGB recommended 1:1 mini din8 cable, goes from HAS to HD15 adapter and plugged into AV3 on OSSC, no audio cable
2. dip switches underneath is set to on for 1 and 2, which is 75ohm and LPF on
3. Turned the RGB dial so that it's around 500ohm in resistance measured with multimeter.
5. SW3 set to buffered for sync
7. 5V was adjusted to 5.05V at the HAS before power up to MVS board.
Click to expand...

1. You don't need to use the HD15 adapter with this board, in fact it limits you b/c AV3 on the OSSC has no LPF. Can you use the standard SCART AV1 in put on the OSSC? (although I see you turned on the LPF via the HAS).
2 . TTL for AV3 I believe (as RBG stated above).
3. You should never need to turn this dial, comes from RGB set. I've never turned it as all PCBs work and look fine.
5. You could try regenerated and unprocessed, but you shouldn't have to with that PCB.
7. I remember RGB saying that powering the HAS with no board attached can damage it.

I assume you're sure the OSSC is working correctly? Do you have a way to plug the HAS direct into a CRT to test it?
 
XtraSmiley said:
For Biomechanical Toy it works with my HAS with the CSync mode switch (SW2) set to Regenerated, but that is going to a consumer CRT with an RGB to Component switch.

For Taito F3 multi, it ONLY works via AV3 on the OSSC, so if you don't have the HD15 adapter, it won't work at all for you
Click to expand...
I will try F3 again to see if it works . But when ive tried last time , ive tried with HD15 VGA Adapter connected in HAS with a VGA-VGA cable who goes from HAS to OSSC directly (no luck) also i've tried with an rgb dim 8 to dim 8 cable who goes in HD15 adapter connected in OSSC to din 8 Has supergun connector (no luck). But i'm a noob when is must to use OSSC (i'm not familiar with him . i only know how to update it)

XtraSmiley said:
@AlxUnderBase if you need me to check my Biomechanical Toy with OSSC let me know. I think I've used it like that before, but can't fully remember.
Click to expand...
I've tried Biomechanical from HAS through my Scart RGB cable and i can't managed to get it working, but i think it's because my CRT can't display that kind of pcbs, it's not from HAS. For the rest of pcb's i've tried, the HAS do an awesome job (used mainly - 99% from time, on my CRT) . To be honest , i've got a solution from Mike (he helped me many times when i've asked him help) to be honest to try to sync it with my CRT but my understanding about these are limited and involve things i don't understand them.
 
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@RGB I got Biomechanical Toy to work with my HAS v4 only by putting the CSYnc switch to U (unprocessed). This is the only setting it works. On the HAS v3, this switch does not have a U option. Is there a way to add it via a jumper change or new switch to a HAS v3, or must a v4 be purchased?
 
XtraSmiley said:
@RGB I got Biomechanical Toy to work with my HAS v4 only by putting the CSYnc switch to U (unprocessed). This is the only setting it works. On the HAS v3, this switch does not have a U option. Is there a way to add it via a jumper change or new switch to a HAS v3, or must a v4 be purchased?
Click to expand...

There are two ways to accomplish this in the HAS V3, invasive and non-invasive, I'll get into details in another message.
 
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Thanks everyone who chimed in. I switched to TTL and it worked as expected using the mini din 8 and HD15 adapter on AV3 RGBS. The only reason I'm using Din8 and VGA is because my scart cable is still being made by retro-access with no ETA. This cable and adapter were for future PCB/situation that might need it.

Got a couple of questions for RGB

@RGB
1. How do I set the video dial correctly? Currently it's set to 500ohms measured from outside pin to center pin while unit is off, this is the resistance used for my ebay supergun (neo jamma). I do have a scope, but I have not used it much to read it properly. If using scope, what level should I dial it to? Are there built in impedance (doesn't appear there is) so that I won't accidentally dial it too high while in use to fry the OSSC?
2. Does powering the HAS without connecting to PCB fry the HAS?

*edit* I hooked up my scope and had the screen on the RGB page after crosshatch, I found the following.

if I adjust the dial to 500ohms, I get 1.28v peak to peak from the video signal. I think that's too high? I adjusted it til it's 680mv, and I measured the resistance to be about 900ohms. If I measured between the middle pin and the pin closer to the DB15 connector.

I measured my ebay supergun too, it uses a 500ohm pot, and the Vpp is jumping all over the place. it varies between 1.44v - 2v sometimes, other times it goes up to 2.8v. Is this going to kill the OSSC? Probably off topic.
 
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I'm 99.3% sure this is right, but after seeing a post about hooking up a HAS incorrectly to power, and the resulting magic smoke, I've become paranoid that I might be doing something wrong. So if someone could give me confirmation that this is how it's supposed to be hooked up on a Mean Well RT-65A it would be very much appreciated:

I'm 99.3% sure this is correct as I've checked the lines with a multimeter, but new dad brain fatigue is causing the 0.7% doubt. So if the wiring is in the correct place, are these values within acceptable tolerances? Or should I adjust things so that the HAS voltage display says 5V? I'm thinking probably yes.

Red: 5.101
Yellow: 11.71
White: -4.935

IMG_4045.jpg
IMG_4044.jpg


Thanks!
 
That looks good!

Use your multimeter to check for +5V at the JAMMA edge of your board and adjust power supply accordingly. Should read +5V at pins 3 and 4. The voltmeter on the HAS should be a good way to get a rough reading of voltage at the JAMMA edge of your board. Taking a measurement with a multi meter from the board is the most accurate way to read voltage.

PS: Every board is different on voltage and current draw so, depending on the board, you may have to adjust your power supply each time you swap a board. You should aim for 4.95V - 5.05V.
 
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rcboosted said:
Thanks everyone who chimed in. I switched to TTL and it worked as expected using the mini din 8 and HD15 adapter on AV3 RGBS. The only reason I'm using Din8 and VGA is because my scart cable is still being made by retro-access with no ETA. This cable and adapter were for future PCB/situation that might need it.

Got a couple of questions for RGB

@RGB
1. How do I set the video dial correctly? Currently it's set to 500ohms measured from outside pin to center pin while unit is off, this is the resistance used for my ebay supergun (neo jamma). I do have a scope, but I have not used it much to read it properly. If using scope, what level should I dial it to? Are there built in impedance (doesn't appear there is) so that I won't accidentally dial it too high while in use to fry the OSSC?
2. Does powering the HAS without connecting to PCB fry the HAS?

*edit* I hooked up my scope and had the screen on the RGB page after crosshatch, I found the following.

if I adjust the dial to 500ohms, I get 1.28v peak to peak from the video signal. I think that's too high? I adjusted it til it's 680mv, and I measured the resistance to be about 900ohms. If I measured between the middle pin and the pin closer to the DB15 connector.

I measured my ebay supergun too, it uses a 500ohm pot, and the Vpp is jumping all over the place. it varies between 1.44v - 2v sometimes, other times it goes up to 2.8v. Is this going to kill the OSSC? Probably off topic.
Click to expand...

Still trying to figure out how to set the pot properly. I don't want to end up with a fried OSSC because the dial is set to high. Anyone else know how?

One of the feature says "
  • RGB video driver - 75 ohm signal output; The brightness regulation is more precise now and it should be right for most PCB games out-of-the-box - the potentiometers are used mostly to fine tune the brightness (they have a limited adjustment range); It's safe - you can get the right Vpp for games with both weak and strong RGB signals (it shouldn't output anything above 1.5Vpp even if the game's signal is *extreme case* 5Vpp)."
But isn't 1.5Vpp too high? I thought it should be 680mV. Please educate me.
 
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RGB said:
@rcboosted - it's ~0.7Vpp for most games out-of-the-box. 1.5Vpp is the worst case scenario with 5Vpp video signal amplitude (whereas it's usually 3-4Vpp) and the pot fully open. Still, that's well within tolerance of the THS7353 buffer used in the OSSC.
Click to expand...
Thank you RGB for the information and confirmation.
 
28D07701-444A-4A2C-9567-13208D75421F.jpeg

Can someone tell me if this wiring looks correct? I’m worried to turn on my HAS and hook up a game before I’m sure this is correct.
 
@Hoosiershadow it depends on what voltage +v2 and v3 are for that power supply (probably a sticker/label on it). one is probably 12v and the other -5v.

and also depends how you’re connecting the wires to the HAS side! I assume black is ground and red is +5v but without seeing those wires I can’t confirm.
 
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