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I am able to display the current profile name in the JVS menu.

At least on Chihiro the I/O is reinitialized when cycling between test menu and game, at which point this name in the JVS menu is updated. I'll experiment with pushing out a new name on the fly, but my guess is that the mainboard won't accept it if it didn't send a command for it.

IMG_20161002_153319_edit.jpg
 
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Everytime you enter the JVS Test Menu it should initialize it.
 
For the 5v and 12v connectors I need JST NH headers as seen here.

The bad news is it seems these are seemingly impossible to source in the US.
Are you unable to order them directly from JST?
I got a few of these brother. I have a boat load of pins. Ordered a whole reel of pins too. Let me know if you need me to ship you one or two.
 
Are you unable to order them directly from JST?
I haven't looked. Do they even sell direct to consumers? Digikey doesn't have them in stock, and lists crazy high minimum orders.


I got a few of these brother. I have a boat load of pins. Ordered a whole reel of pins too. Let me know if you need me to ship you one or two.
I'm assuming since you're saying you have pins that you're indicating that you have the connector housings. I'm not needing the connectors or pins. Those are already present in my cabinet. I'm needing the headers that get soldered onto the I/O board for the connectors to plug into. Do you happen to have those?

It's not a huge deal either way. I'm confident I can put something together quickly, with what I have on hand, that will work.
 
Interesting... I'm trying to map out controls for WMMT on Chihiro. I can find all the inputs for the 6-way shifter, but am not seeing anything happening for Intrude Change and View Change within P1 or P2 start, service, 4 joy-stick directions or buttons 1-7... Where could these inputs be? P1 and 2 button 8 is all I can figure and as I'm not reporting those.

I'll have to dig into it more when I get a chance.
 
I'm assuming since you're saying you have pins that you're indicating that you have the connector housings. I'm not needing the connectors or pins. Those are already present in my cabinet. I'm needing the headers that get soldered onto the I/O board for the connectors to plug into. Do you happen to have those?

It's not a huge deal either way. I'm confident I can put something together quickly, with what I have on hand, that will work.
Ahh, ok. I have the connectors and pins, not the headers.
 
I'm assuming since you're saying you have pins that you're indicating that you have the connector housings. I'm not needing the connectors or pins. Those are already present in my cabinet. I'm needing the headers that get soldered onto the I/O board for the connectors to plug into. Do you happen to have those?

It's not a huge deal either way. I'm confident I can put something together quickly, with what I have on hand, that will work.
Ahh, ok. I have the connectors and pins, not the headers.
Thanks for the offer anyway!
 
Interesting... I'm trying to map out controls for WMMT on Chihiro. I can find all the inputs for the 6-way shifter, but am not seeing anything happening for Intrude Change and View Change within P1 or P2 start, service, 4 joy-stick directions or buttons 1-7... Where could these inputs be? P1 and 2 button 8 is all I can figure and as I'm not reporting those.
Well I'm not sure anymore. I tried button 8 for P1 and 2, and no go. The only other test I can think of is if the Namco I/O is reporting 16 bits per player and there's a button 9 or 10. Or maybe there's some weird dip switch setting that puts it into 4 player mode and these buttons are on P3 or 4. ?(
 
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OK, so the switches I'm looking for are effectively player 1 buttons 9 and 10! I'm sending 16 bits per player anyway, just generally reporting switches past 7 as off.

Thanks for being an oddball, Namco! Now I have to change up my code.

At least they didn't make it so their game refuses to boot with an I/O that claims a lower bits per player than is needed, unlike OR2 which won't boot if your I/O doesn't meet exact specs.

Anyway, playing WMMT on a Sega Type 1 I/O means you'll never be able to access these buttons. Custom I/O for the win!

WMMT switch test.png
 
Here are my thoughts on WMMT 1 and 2 for when we get to a point that others are able to utilize what I'm putting together here:

The shifter on this game is so different than what's on an ID1-3/OR2 cabinet. It's a 6-position, 4 switch shifter. Think of it kind of like an 8-way joystick driven by 4 switches. Thought it's not self-centering. It stays in whatever gear you put it in.
Up-Left is First
Down-Left is 2nd
Up is 3rd
Down is 4th
Up-Right is 5th
Down-Right is 6th

There's not an effective way to play this game in manual transmission mode without a different kind of shifter. Many other cabs just have a 2-position self centering shifter.

The only way I could think to make that work would be to come up with some code that translates the 2 position shifter movements into the 6-position, but that's not something I'm interested in taking on. First off you'd have to let the I/O know that it's time to activate the code. And then you'd have to tell it when to deactivate/reset. If you ended a race in 6th gear and a new race starts, the I/O will have no idea it needs to go back to neutral or 1st... plus you won't have any way to hang out in neutral while drifting. I just don't think it would be worth the hassle. Might as well play it in automatic mode.

I've actually got a pair of shifters from WMMT and will eventually have 2 driving cabinets with these installed along with a 2-way shifter for other games. I'm designing my I/O to have an extra header just for wiring in this shifter.

For anyone else looking to get into WMMT and have a dedicated shifter for it, I'm thinking a simple 8-way joystick could do it. You'd just need to keep your hand on it to keep it in gear, and you'd be lacking a gate to keep the positions relatively locked in, but I think it could work.

In my limited play with the 6-way shifter, it's so much more fun than the 2-way shifter method of changing gears in ID3!
 
Interesting finds!
The joystick shifting scheme for sure is a bit of a challenge, while button 9&10 is doable a bit of a PITA.
I'll have a look at the sheet if this can be documented in a sane way.
 
Here are my thoughts on WMMT 1 and 2 for when we get to a point that others are able to utilize what I'm putting together here:

The shifter on this game is so different than what's on an ID1-3/OR2 cabinet. It's a 6-position, 4 switch shifter. Think of it kind of like an 8-way joystick driven by 4 switches. Thought it's not self-centering. It stays in whatever gear you put it in.
Up-Left is First
Down-Left is 2nd
Up is 3rd
Down is 4th
Up-Right is 5th
Down-Right is 6th

There's not an effective way to play this game in manual transmission mode without a different kind of shifter. Many other cabs just have a 2-position self centering shifter.

The only way I could think to make that work would be to come up with some code that translates the 2 position shifter movements into the 6-position, but that's not something I'm interested in taking on. First off you'd have to let the I/O know that it's time to activate the code. And then you'd have to tell it when to deactivate/reset. If you ended a race in 6th gear and a new race starts, the I/O will have no idea it needs to go back to neutral or 1st... plus you won't have any way to hang out in neutral while drifting. I just don't think it would be worth the hassle. Might as well play it in automatic mode.

I've actually got a pair of shifters from WMMT and will eventually have 2 driving cabinets with these installed along with a 2-way shifter for other games. I'm designing my I/O to have an extra header just for wiring in this shifter.

For anyone else looking to get into WMMT and have a dedicated shifter for it, I'm thinking a simple 8-way joystick could do it. You'd just need to keep your hand on it to keep it in gear, and you'd be lacking a gate to keep the positions relatively locked in, but I think it could work.

In my limited play with the 6-way shifter, it's so much more fun than the 2-way shifter method of changing gears in ID3!
I know this may seem silly for others but I myself have a ID2 cab. I have added Mario Kart and had to create an 'Item' button with the help of friendly folks on this forum. Avoiding adding unnecessary holes in the cabinet dashboard, I have this button on a breadboard and am still figuring out where to place this button. With that being said, I have also added 6 additional buttons on the breadboard for WMMT1/2 shifting for testing. It's a bit daunting to pick which button to shift to but it works for testing purposes when I load up WMMT2. A custom 6 gear shifter with a gate to lock that position sounds like a cool project but one must walk before running.

Anyways, as I type this, I just thought about a state machine that might be able to shift to and from a previous gear given the current gear. But I'm just thinking out loud right now and I think this in itself is another project.
 
Here are my thoughts on WMMT 1 and 2 for when we get to a point that others are able to utilize what I'm putting together here:

The shifter on this game is so different than what's on an ID1-3/OR2 cabinet. It's a 6-position, 4 switch shifter. Think of it kind of like an 8-way joystick driven by 4 switches. Thought it's not self-centering. It stays in whatever gear you put it in.
Up-Left is First
Down-Left is 2nd
Up is 3rd
Down is 4th
Up-Right is 5th
Down-Right is 6th

There's not an effective way to play this game in manual transmission mode without a different kind of shifter. Many other cabs just have a 2-position self centering shifter.

The only way I could think to make that work would be to come up with some code that translates the 2 position shifter movements into the 6-position, but that's not something I'm interested in taking on. First off you'd have to let the I/O know that it's time to activate the code. And then you'd have to tell it when to deactivate/reset. If you ended a race in 6th gear and a new race starts, the I/O will have no idea it needs to go back to neutral or 1st... plus you won't have any way to hang out in neutral while drifting. I just don't think it would be worth the hassle. Might as well play it in automatic mode.

I've actually got a pair of shifters from WMMT and will eventually have 2 driving cabinets with these installed along with a 2-way shifter for other games. I'm designing my I/O to have an extra header just for wiring in this shifter.

For anyone else looking to get into WMMT and have a dedicated shifter for it, I'm thinking a simple 8-way joystick could do it. You'd just need to keep your hand on it to keep it in gear, and you'd be lacking a gate to keep the positions relatively locked in, but I think it could work.

In my limited play with the 6-way shifter, it's so much more fun than the 2-way shifter method of changing gears in ID3!
I know this may seem silly for others but I myself have a ID2 cab. I have added Mario Kart and had to create an 'Item' button with the help of friendly folks on this forum. Avoiding adding unnecessary holes in the cabinet dashboard, I have this button on a breadboard and am still figuring out where to place this button. With that being said, I have also added 6 additional buttons on the breadboard for WMMT1/2 shifting for testing. It's a bit daunting to pick which button to shift to but it works for testing purposes when I load up WMMT2. A custom 6 gear shifter with a gate to lock that position sounds like a cool project but one must walk before running.
Anyways, as I type this, I just thought about a state machine that might be able to shift to and from a previous gear given the current gear. But I'm just thinking out loud right now and I think this in itself is another project.
The gear state machine you're talking about could be handled by the I/O, but it gets a little complicated when the I/O doesn't know that a race as ended.

Like if you ended a race on 6th gear, how would it know to reset? Or do you think it would be acceptable to have to down shift on your own at the beginning of the next race?

From a coding perspective, managing the states isn't that hard. You'd just keep track of current gear and switch to the next/previous based on the movement of the 2 way shifter.

I was thinking a challenge would be throwing it in neutral. I guess using a 2 position, maybe before changing states, it goes to neutral. So say I'm in 5th and want to drift in neutral. I shift down on the shifter and go neutral. Shift up goes back into 5th, of shift down again goes to 4th.

So the sequence would be as follows with each hit of the 2 way shifter:
Neutral
1st
Neutral
2nd
Neutral
3rd
Neutral
4th
Neutral
5th
Neutral
6th

I wonder if that would work well and still be fun. There's a bit of a pause before a new race starts, and IIRC it tells you to put it into 3rd gear before the race starts (i.e. It's a rolling start, not a start from a stopped position)... maybe that would be manageable.
 
I've been struggling getting the connectors seated on my I/O board in the dark behind my cabinet.

No more! I'm kicking it up a notch with appropriate headers.

I received my order of 26 pin headers today. They're not the locking type, but hold in the connector well anyway. I actually found a small cheap lot of locking 60 pin headers on ebay and have those on the way to me. The locking ones are pretty expensive at places like Digikey, and probably not entirely nessary.

26 pin header.png
 
They're not normal ribbon headers they're JST RA headers. normal pin headers will "fit" but the RA pins are a little thinner on one side (they're rectangular)... the reason they're locking is that there is nearly no insertion force.
 
Here are my thoughts on WMMT 1 and 2 for when we get to a point that others are able to utilize what I'm putting together here:

The shifter on this game is so different than what's on an ID1-3/OR2 cabinet. It's a 6-position, 4 switch shifter. Think of it kind of like an 8-way joystick driven by 4 switches. Thought it's not self-centering. It stays in whatever gear you put it in.
Up-Left is First
Down-Left is 2nd
Up is 3rd
Down is 4th
Up-Right is 5th
Down-Right is 6th

There's not an effective way to play this game in manual transmission mode without a different kind of shifter. Many other cabs just have a 2-position self centering shifter.

The only way I could think to make that work would be to come up with some code that translates the 2 position shifter movements into the 6-position, but that's not something I'm interested in taking on. First off you'd have to let the I/O know that it's time to activate the code. And then you'd have to tell it when to deactivate/reset. If you ended a race in 6th gear and a new race starts, the I/O will have no idea it needs to go back to neutral or 1st... plus you won't have any way to hang out in neutral while drifting. I just don't think it would be worth the hassle. Might as well play it in automatic mode.

I've actually got a pair of shifters from WMMT and will eventually have 2 driving cabinets with these installed along with a 2-way shifter for other games. I'm designing my I/O to have an extra header just for wiring in this shifter.

For anyone else looking to get into WMMT and have a dedicated shifter for it, I'm thinking a simple 8-way joystick could do it. You'd just need to keep your hand on it to keep it in gear, and you'd be lacking a gate to keep the positions relatively locked in, but I think it could work.

In my limited play with the 6-way shifter, it's so much more fun than the 2-way shifter method of changing gears in ID3!
I know this may seem silly for others but I myself have a ID2 cab. I have added Mario Kart and had to create an 'Item' button with the help of friendly folks on this forum. Avoiding adding unnecessary holes in the cabinet dashboard, I have this button on a breadboard and am still figuring out where to place this button. With that being said, I have also added 6 additional buttons on the breadboard for WMMT1/2 shifting for testing. It's a bit daunting to pick which button to shift to but it works for testing purposes when I load up WMMT2. A custom 6 gear shifter with a gate to lock that position sounds like a cool project but one must walk before running.Anyways, as I type this, I just thought about a state machine that might be able to shift to and from a previous gear given the current gear. But I'm just thinking out loud right now and I think this in itself is another project.
The gear state machine you're talking about could be handled by the I/O, but it gets a little complicated when the I/O doesn't know that a race as ended.
Like if you ended a race on 6th gear, how would it know to reset? Or do you think it would be acceptable to have to down shift on your own at the beginning of the next race?

From a coding perspective, managing the states isn't that hard. You'd just keep track of current gear and switch to the next/previous based on the movement of the 2 way shifter.

I was thinking a challenge would be throwing it in neutral. I guess using a 2 position, maybe before changing states, it goes to neutral. So say I'm in 5th and want to drift in neutral. I shift down on the shifter and go neutral. Shift up goes back into 5th, of shift down again goes to 4th.

So the sequence would be as follows with each hit of the 2 way shifter:
Neutral
1st
Neutral
2nd
Neutral
3rd
Neutral
4th
Neutral
5th
Neutral
6th

I wonder if that would work well and still be fun. There's a bit of a pause before a new race starts, and IIRC it tells you to put it into 3rd gear before the race starts (i.e. It's a rolling start, not a start from a stopped position)... maybe that would be manageable.
That's a good question. The way I was thinking about this was similar to riding a motorcycle. You only have two positions. Shift up and shift down. Mechanically, lifting your foot up goes down from your current position. Dropping your foot shifts you up from your current position. In this logic, you get to your next shift point from whatever previous point. Neutral is reached with half a shift up which I didn't take into account at all assuming shifting goes from what number to the other.

Sequence:
Neutral
Shift down (1st gear) | Shift down x 2 (2nd gear) | Shift down x 3 (3rd gear) | Shift down x 4 (4th gear) | Shift down x 5 (5th gear) | Shift down x 6 (6th gear)

Shifting up x # (Gear # based on number of shifts up)

Neutral was something I didn't take into account.

Again, my state logic might be off the wall to make any use but it was to deal with using the same shifter in my existing cab rather than a 6 gear shifter. And maybe neutral could be a state that can be reached by shifting just once in any direction and the gears could be reached by shifting (X + 1) times? (Now i'm dreaming about paddle shifting on a cab. something's wrong with me)
 
They're not normal ribbon headers they're JST RA headers. normal pin headers will "fit" but the RA pins are a little thinner on one side (they're rectangular)... the reason they're locking is that there is nearly no insertion force.
I see what you're saying. I compared to them to the Type 1 I/O I have out on a table. With these pins being fatter in combination with the shroud, it's holding the connector in well enough for my purposes. They'll be a big upgrade from what I had going on.

I'm pretty sure the 60 pin headers I have on order aren't JST either. Hopefully they work similarly.
 
I'm happy to report success with my I/O and Lindbergh. I'm officially (mostly) JVS compliant with all the motherboards I have on hand. An area where I'm probably not compliant is having a through port for accepting other nodes.

Looking over the inputs on a lot of games, I'm left wishing I had at least one more lit button on my cabinet.

I got to thinking about the Start button, though. Some games, like CTHR use the start button in game to change something on the fly, but I wonder how prevalent that is.

An idea I have is a multi-purpose start button. Either have the start button mapped as 2 inputs simultaneously (easy method) or manage the start button dynamically (more difficult). If the output for start lamp is on, it's a start button. If the output for boost is on, it's a boost button... but neither option would be very intuitive from a player's perspective.
 
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