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Here is my masterpiece in its bare form. What are capacitors c6 and c7 for, its possible I put them in backwards thats all I can think of.
Every function works fine, sound is great all the buttons work. Just a bit bright. Any ideas?
 

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I guess I am just to impatient and wrote them off too fast. I spent that last 20 min turning them slowly on the mk3 test screen and now it looks pretty decent haha. Thanks for the help guys, it turns out nothing was wrong.

This supergun makes my old one look like a joke it is so tiny and the sound is awesome. My old one didn't have color adjustment I just did that on the monitor.
 
Well done, I just got my boards for the 9 pin version. The first one I build was the 8 pin but I've had the parts for a second supergun for a couple of weeks. I'll build it tomorrow. I mounted my neo geo up on some mdf and the second machine will be my PGM.
 
What are capacitors c6 and c7 for
I love a happy ending! Congratulations on the successful build. Supergun was my first serious Arcade Project and it has been used daily ever since - hope you have many years of fun and satisfaction.

I answer your question; c6 and c7 are part of the audio section - they are bi-polar caps - unlike most other electrolytic caps they don’t have a forward and a backwards.
 
I didn't pay enough attention to the differences on the 9 pin board plus messed up my order and came up short on a few components. Only made it to 95% :). It's ok, cable isn't here yet anyway. After all this I've decided the 8 pin is probably the best board to build. (if you are happy to build the impossible to source/expensive 8 pin cable yourself)

Edit.. Got the printed case
 

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I didn't pay enough attention to the differences on the 9 pin board plus messed up my order and came up short on a few components. Only made it to 95% :). It's ok, cable isn't here yet anyway. After all this I've decided the 8 pin is probably the best board to build. (if you are happy to build the impossible to source/expensive 8 pin cable yourself)

Edit.. Got the printed case
@Elfoam Might I ask where did you get this case? I’m in need of one for my minigun.
 
Yes the "no text" one is the case I used. Also I got it printed at JLCPCB, in 6060 resin which is why it turned out so much nicer than a home grade printer.
 
Question: what would the recommended adjustments be if the picture is a bit "washed out"? Whites are too white. My setup is minigun to OSSC to original Vewlix "C" 768p LCD. I could adjust the LCD, but it seems OK with other video inputs so thought I'd start with the minigun.
 
Whased you mean not sharp? Could be a problem with ground.

Was this in response to my question? If so, it's sharp and the picture looks great. But whites are over saturated. Can try to grab a picture or screen capture this weekend...
 
Was this in response to my question? If so, it's sharp and the picture looks great. But whites are over saturated. Can try to grab a picture or screen capture this weekend...
Ah ok, you need to adjust potentiometers.
 
Sounds good, will give that a try. Any values you can recommend I try?
The Jamma boards I have, have a color bars menu that you can use to adjust the RGB levels. I adjust them so I can distinctly see each gradient value on each of the 3 bars. I hope I read that right.
 
Just mess with it till you like the colors :P
This.
I have 5 of these (I love them) and I thought my first one was broken because the builder did not adjust it or test it before sending it out. The entire screen was just white.

Not a big deal because it took only a few seconds to adjust it and it's been working great ever since.

I believe it was the blue that caused most of the trouble for me. It was maxed, if I remember correctly.
 
I customized my Minigun, and it now sits within a box with an interface and large potentiometers for manual control, making color refining a breeze.
 
Just mess with it till you like the colors :P
Well that's the thing, possibly because of how it's running to HDMI via the OSSC the colors look great. It's just white that gets washed out. But I'll experiment with the RGB pots.

The Jamma boards I have, have a color bars menu that you can use to adjust the RGB levels. I adjust them so I can distinctly see each gradient value on each of the 3 bars. I hope I read that right.
I have a dedicated test JAMMA PCB I use for adjustments. Will break it out this weekend.
 
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