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Yaton will only take friends and family payments because PayPal has locked several of his past accounts due to charge backs. Oh he also tried to fuck a user over for $20k worth of Astros. I’d bet one of the ones he’s selling you was from that original container.
 
Yaton will only take friends and family payments because PayPal has locked several of his past accounts due to charge backs. Oh he also tried to fuck a user over for $20k worth of Astros. I’d bet one of the ones he’s selling you was from that original container.
Unfortunately there just isn’t much to choose from. Especially when I was ready with cash-in-hand.
 
Yaton will only take friends and family payments
My two transactions with him outside of ebay (where you can't F&F), I've requested and received a payable invoice to my e-mail. It is a normal goods & services invoice.
 
My two transactions with him outside of ebay (where you can't F&F), I've requested and received a payable invoice to my e-mail. It is a normal goods & services invoice.
I’m going by what was said in this thread. The first post says he required the OP to pay in F&F. I swore off dealing with Yaton when he stopped testing his chassis a few years back and just listed them all as “working”. Prior to that I’d imagine I’ve done at least 50 transactions with him since 2006 when he was Y-Tech. While I’m glad that your two transactions have panned out well, myself and countless others have been burned by Yaton under his plethora of fake names.
 
I’m on the verge of committing on an Astro with Yaton, following your journey closely. Yes Yaton did request PP F&F along with a fully refundable deposit, pictures and video. He mentioned he was out sick as well.

Like TodoRojo I,m fully expecting to put work in, now is not the time to be picky for a cab, as long as the chassis isn’t majorly cracked and monitor works, the rest can be repaired without much effort.
 
Fair enough, my purchases he sent invoices for have been for parts and not a cab, F&F was not mentioned but maybe it's different with a cab. Only cab I bought from him was through ebay.
 
Sorry to hear about the job—that’s a really shitty to treat anyone—but I’m glad you made it work in the end. Congrats on the new house and hope to see some photos of those cabs soon!
 
Sorry to hear about the job—that’s a really shitty to treat anyone—but I’m glad you made it work in the end. Congrats on the new house and hope to see some photos of those cabs soon!
Thanks so much, it does suck but hey — we made it! Can’t wait to continue sharing this journey with the forum. Y’all are awesome.
 
Hello everyone,

Boy, has it been a while! Two days ago I finally received my Yaton cab. Well, kind of; but not really. In the summer of 2022, Yaton was starting to respond more slowly to my messages and was dragging things out as he said my cab was “lost.” I eventually gave up hope that I’d get the cab from Yaton and put in an order with @GeekMan1222 (sorry for pinging you again ;) ). Boy am I glad I did. Although I am indeed out the cash from Yaton, I am happy to report that the cab I ordered from GndZero arrived safe and sound with a freshly re-capped chassis and I also got 4 Taito stools! I want to take this opportunity to shout out GndZero because it was such a great process. I hope any would-be candy cab owners take heed to this thread and skip the questionable sellers and go for a tried and true seller like GndZero. Communication was great, the price is about the same (minus shipping — but it’s worth the extra shipping cost if you can’t pick up), and the process was clear. The cab is exactly what I wanted/expected.

Now that I have the cab that is, I guess, in place of the Yaton cab, I am reviving this thread to document the restoration process. I am glad to have this opportunity ahead and hope y’all get some entertainment from it.

So, let’s kick it off with some basic maintenance and cleaning:

Here she is in all her glory. It’s equipped with an MS9 and the sweet smell of a dockside bar. Yum! 😂 (I’ll post more detailed photos of the machine tomorrow)
7D6AC22D-832A-498A-A551-76E96E64D0AD.jpeg



Before jumping into the pictures below, I’m aware that removing factory stickers can be a form of sacrilege. I really want to keep as much originality as I can, but to truly clean some of these parts and prep them for paint the stickers will need to go. I’ll be sourcing the best reproductions available.

AC panel before and afters:
68605434-D5B3-45A9-AA3A-175B8241A5DD.jpeg

52C27EC5-CAB3-495B-BF3C-87E2246E162D.jpeg


64177A6A-AA2F-4EB0-BA1F-3178D1A0298D.jpeg

FAA01319-85BD-4A47-B1E9-FE3CD89E8995.jpeg


Ac panel odds and ends (plus CP hinge). Note that any metal pieces with corrosion will be cleaned and eventually re-plated. If they don’t have corrosion, they’ll just get an alcohol bath.
8D839CA2-9201-4066-9D94-2A6F90CB601A.jpeg


F3B30CE0-F976-4A24-8740-6864017FF412.jpeg

2A6A4635-379A-4B02-8AAE-7C81E8361AE4.jpeg


Control Panel surround
B26CCE91-2249-412D-BF1F-7FCFEB97FF83.jpeg


EA3058D3-5242-41D0-BF50-78452AA82C9B.jpeg


That’s a bit of what I was able to do today. Also got a grounded power cable made for it.

Thanks for sticking around!
 
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Day 3 update! I said I’d bring more pictures of the cab, so here they are :)

A8486378-E7AD-467A-A4DF-808A110D801E.jpeg
AB79E123-027F-4BCA-A6E0-3A32411441B4.jpeg
E5613A35-88D2-40B6-BF9F-32A861AB8F34.jpeg


If I had to guess, this may have been in storage for a long time as it smells pretty mildew-y (or just in a costal town). It really has pretty standard wear for a publicly-used, 30 year old item. Paint and rusted screws are probably the worst part, but the body itself is in pretty darn good shape.

Here’s what did today:

Some small-item polishing. I got a polishing wheel that really brings the old hardware back to life.
7AEA1598-C877-48E7-8E60-FEFA41DC0204.jpeg E7D10689-4286-4918-A973-D002C93A0E90.jpeg

Took the harnesses out of the CP and started with a 4-1 dilution of simple green, then rinsed with water, then soaked/rinsed in 91% IPA to displace the water. After that, I used my air compressor to blow out all the connectors and dry them out. I’ll give them at least 24 hours before putting them back in:
EEDE75CA-31F1-441F-8D4D-60A2E3A4DCDD.jpegA3CCD6E3-3D08-4BDA-BC2F-17459A2DF8F8.jpeg8F678733-D5C7-4F9D-AEB3-F3EACE0E47C7.jpeg

Polished the instruction sheet glass:
829C753C-C077-4BD8-AB20-66FE11B6344D.jpeg99791113-7014-41FF-9950-410D4439DB46.jpeg
 
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Cleaned the back panel and removed some rust spots:

B09405DB-064B-461D-A70D-D66C645761C0.jpeg7282845D-70D0-4560-8338-DFCAFF0B9C9B.jpeg
79806948-F8DD-4934-9997-40DD90A82CC5.jpeg

Put the AC Panel back together with the new grounded cable and cleaned parts:
3EFFB19E-9087-45DE-A34D-3B397C740B32.jpeg

Now for the biggest project of the day, removing the anti-glare coating. Holy shit y’all — I have seen some of you did this by hand and I do **not** understand how you did it. This job was miserable even with a polisher. It took me a couple hours, but I was going slow and steady as I wanted to be as careful as possible. I used Novus 2 (as is tradition).

One thing that is kind of fun is that this machine being mostly original still has the spill tray on it. I removed it plus all the adhesive and I’ll reattach it later (even so, NO DRINKS ON THE CABS! 😂).

Here are the before, during, and afters. You’ll note I did this in the house and I wised up after 20 minutes of splattering my other cab and walls with polish. Duh… 😅.

0637ABC2-5CD4-46FF-931E-1F7EB2750A0C.jpeg D76E121A-89A3-4EF5-9107-8F3C901DC1D6.jpeg7B8D1D89-511F-40B8-9A0C-16F68446220E.jpeg

Finally, I ordered a Sega amp from @alberto1225 about a month ago and restored/recapped that. I also bought a PSU about 4 months ago and recapped that, so I tested it today for the first time. Everything works!

7702363D-350F-42A2-BFF0-E3081BF7C34C.jpeg


I still have a lot to do, but we’re going on vacation next week to relax in CA (annnnd stop by arcade shock) so I’m sticking to the easy stuff for now. I’ll be looking for a shop to do paint when we get back.
 
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Well, I did it. At least I think I did. I sent copious amounts of money to a person I have never met in a place I have never been using F&F on PayPal (apparently I like to gamble) in exchange for what could be a Sega Astro City. I wanted to start this thread not necessarily because we need another Astro City restoration thread, but to give you fine people a peek into my experience in buying a candy cab sight-unseen from overseas.

First, I know many people will ask "why didn't you purchase local? Why didn't you wait for more to come up that are already stateside?" and frankly, the real reasons are impatience and FOMO. It can be quite difficult to reach out and ask for stock. I'm not sure if it's because sellers have been burned in the past (wouldn't surprise me) or if most sellers are just too busy to handle a thousand requests for candy-cabs per-day; but, I was worried that stock will continue to dwindle and demand wouldn't slow. I'd rather purchase something now that needs work, rather than wait for a thread to be updated and buy something that, let's be honest, will still need work. At the end of the day, I want to have two cabs, so even if this one is trashed at least I have something (I think...).

I have been watching Yaton Arcade's stock for the past few months while I wait to hear about any containers that have Astro's coming in. None of the threads I had followed were looking too hopeful and Yaton's stock was getting low. To the point where it was out of stock on everything he had listed. I decided to reach out anyway and he got back to me saying that he has one left in stock. I reached out to a few forum members and some arcade people on twitter asking for their opinions. Most of the feedback I got was "expect that thing to be trashed" and some outright telling me not to even bother. (I want to thank @djsheep and @hyp36rmax for their help on this. They had great suggestions for me). I also talked to a buyer of Yaton's who said "it will need work, but it will be as listed." I went back to Yaton's Facebook and asked for photos, videos, etc. He sent me some photos and I was a bit worried because I saw some rivets in the control panel which, I would assume, are there to fix a cracked CP (see photo).

271427686_608363683585727_5242163519587807501_n.jpg

So I asked for more photos and a video. He sent back a video which displayed no rivets (何?!!??). I was happy that the video didn't have any rivets in it but now I was a bit uneasy. I did a bit more digging and realized that the cabinet in the photos was different from the one in the video. Not my favorite thing to see, but I double checked and said "which one am I going to be receiving?" He assured me that the one in the video was a video he just took (which seemed true, he walked up to both sides of the CP to show no rivets or cracks) and that is the machine I will receive. I asked again about burn-in and he assured that the tube has no burn-in.


Here's a screenshot from the video:
IMG_1733.jpg

Now, being the gambler that I now am, I decided to throw caution to the wind and make the purchase. I will admit that being told "F&F only" had me a bit worried. Yaton did mention, though, that he'd been burned 6 times because of people refunding their purchases. Now, does this mean that customers actually got ripped off? Does it mean some customers were expecting more than they actually got? Who knows, but if I were on his end, I would be frustrated. Even still, I decided to go ahead.

I'm setting my expectations super duper low, and if it comes to my door in as good as condition as it seems to have, I'll be happy as a clam. if it's worse, I won't be upset. It's an arcade that's almost as old as I am, what can I really expect? As you'll see below, I have a lot of plans for this cab and the tube is probably the only thing I'm really worried about. Having no cracks in the fiberglass will be a plus; but, if I have to hire someone to do a bit of fiberglass work, I'll do it (or figure it out myself). I hope that this thread can give some people peace of mind when buying sight-unseen, or maybe help them realize it's not for them. Maybe some of you might just find it interesting. Hell, I don't know.


Here's the timeline. I'll make updates as I receive information:

January 15th: Money changed hands. Immediately after purchase he reached out and asked for my phone number, address, full name, and e-mail. Cool! I asked him if using WeChat would be easier and he said yes. He can only use FaceBook from his office so we switched to chatting there instead. He asked if I would like Chinese locks or if I prefer the originals and I asked him to reinstall the originals. He informed me that he will get that done by Thursday, then wrap it and put it in a crate (I paid extra for that) to hand over to the shipper. I also learned through WeChat he goes by James.

January 17th: I reached out as I hadn't heard anything yet. I let him know I'll be awake until about 4PM his time and to contact me if he needs anything from me.

January 18th: James gets back to me and apologizes for getting back late. He said he will try to ship again the upcoming Thursday (1/20) but the Omicron variant was closing things down in his city. We exchanged some niceties for a while. I won't share too much as to respect his privacy, but we found out we both have family in similar locations overseas (Kinda cool!). He told me that he can't head to work until he has his test results back as negative and they are testing the entire city. No worries! I then asked him a few questions about the shipping process. He said that he will wrap and box, the box goes to the shipper's warehouse where it waits for a full container. Once the container is full it heads to customs clearance and the shipping port. When it's past those, the container waits for a ship to arrive and then it moves to the ship. Ship will arrive in Vancouver port and then be trucked to my door. He apologized that it's a long process. He estimates about 3 months, but warned me Lunar New Year could push it a bit further.

January 21st: I messaged him as I hadn't heard anything yet.

January 24th: I get a message! He says "Good news: your cab has been sent to the shipper warehouse. Bad news: Shipper won't be sending anything until after New Year." I was just happy to hear it has made some progress. I thanked him for giving me an update and we had a nice little chat again.

January 29th: I got a message from another seller in the US who let me know they got an Astro City in stock. They will be restoring it and selling it to me (they don't sell cabs un-restored). After some conversations with my fiancee, she told me to pull the trigger. I want two cabs so I can use the mister vs. and hopefully get a versus setup for SFIII -- so she said to stop thinking and just buy it! It should be ready in March and we'll drive out to pick it up. Pretty exciting! I'm also happy because this means I'll have something working while I'm restoring my other astro. My wallet didn't enjoy it as much, though.

Feb 3rd: Ordered some parts from DigiKey and Mouser. I bought a bunch of AMP-UP connectors and some Faston connectors. I am not sure if I will actually need all of them, but I needed to order some things anyway and didn't want the shipping cost to go to waste. Some of the main things I already have uses for:
- 4Pin AMP-UP for connecting the amp to the speakers
- 12 Pin AMP-UP and 9 Pin AMP-UP. I'm not sure which PSU my cab will have, so I bought both of these so that I can pull 12v from the PSU (and probably 5v for the LEDs if I decide to use them)
- AMP-Up Pins (male and female, both sizes)
- Ring connector for grounding the cab
- Spade connectors for the new grounded cable
- .205" Faston. This is for the Logitech speakers as one of the lugs is .110" and the other is .205". I'll remove the .110" from the harness and replace it so that it looks "factory".
This page from GateNinety was really helpful for finding the AMP-UP connectors

May 12: I contacted James a few days ago to see if he has any updates on the status of my Arcade. James informed me that 23 total machines shipped out in January and so far 17 have delivered... oddly, mine is not one of the last few that need to be delivered. OOOOOF!!! James asked me to give him a couple of days to get in touch with the shipper and track down my cab. There are 2 likely scenarios: 1. mine left on a different container than most of the January orders due to Lunar New Year. It's just a bit behind and still on the way. 2. It's lost or confiscated by customs. James was very clear that if it is lost or has been confiscated he will fully refund me or re-send another cab. I really appreciated that he was upfront about that and willing to work with me. Am I bummed? Of course; but, I am sure it'll all work out in the end. I'm just bummed I don't have a cab yet. I should be hearing back from him tonight or tomorrow and I'll follow up with more updates.

June 8: SAD NEWS. James contacted me and let me know that the shipper he used had a bunch of undeclared items on the container that held my cab... the container was confiscated and the cab will likely be destroyed ;(. I'm really sad about that; mainly because it's such a waste of cool technology. I hope that it ends up at an auction or something because it would be such a waste for customs to destroy it!

The good news: James offered a full refund or to send another. I was really appreciative that he had no hesitation to send my money back. I thought about doing so and going through Ground Zeroes instead (who I will definitely be buying from in the future. I had a short chat with them and they seem great!), but in the end I opted not to. Going through GZ would cost me an additional ~$700 or so. If I can save that $700 and put it into the restoration, I'd prefer that route. This sets us back quite a bit but James' new shipper has completed 3 successful deliveries and they're faster than the previous shipper. Hopefully I'll have a cab at my door within 80 days or so. Fingers crossed!

Patience is a virtue, they say ;)


List of To-Do's for the cab:
- Upgrade speakers and add a stereo amp (speakers are on the way. Amp is here and ready).
- Completely disassemble and clean
- Re-cap all the things
- Re-plate all the metal pieces. @stringbean gave me some good information here.
- Sand the paint down
- Send to a shop to have it painted and cleared.
- Replace all stickers and art
- Replace all the buttons and joysticks (already purchased and waiting)
- Order from panels from Alberto. I'm going to do 2L12B and 1L6B configurations
- Refinish the marquee using the @FluxChiller process
- Put LEDs in the control panel (ehh). I bought both clear and solid buttons in case I hate it.
- Replace the marquee light... maybe. I'm waiting on this one. I want to make sure everything I do can be powered by the internal PSU instead of running wires out the back.
- Pull the ol' @Softdrink and put in a service light. I am going to use LEDs for mine and use a Normally-Open Reed Switch so that it only comes on when the service door is open. I thought that'd be fun. I should be able to pull 5v from the PSU and then run a battery backup for when the PSU isn't on.
- Ground the cab (duh)
- I may build my own harness as well. It depends on how over it I am once I finish everything else, though.

Some questions I have:
1. Are you guys in the US using step-downs to get to 100v? I'm not actually too worried about the PSU, but I worry for the CRT. Any reason I should be?
2. I have this idea to make a mono/stereo switch. Has anyone done this? I believe I could wire in a 4PDT switch and connect the parallel mono setup from the cab into the switch then wire the line-out from the amp so that I can go between the two. Am I going down a road that shouldn't be travelled here? This would really only be for cosmetic purposes.

I'm pretty sure I have more questions... I will come back if so.


In the spirit of transparency, I'll also keep a budget here so you can get an idea of cost (in USD rounded up to nearest dollar):
ItemCostURL
Astro City$750
Shipping$1000
Crate$70
Sanwa OBS 30mm Grn
Sanwa OBS 30mm Pink
Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT (2)
Sanwa OBSC 24mm Ylw
Sanwa OBSC 30mm Pnk
Sanwa OBSC 30mm Grn
$111https://arcadeshock.com
Amp without PSU (just a little guy)$10https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TUSXEY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
RCA Cables (may replace these)$7https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L1717K?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Dialectric Grease$4https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL2RI2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
JIS Screwdriver$12https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TG8OTY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Reed switches$10https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086GYGCJ8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Degaussing Coil$63https://www.ebay.com/itm/123990657206?hash=item1cde6b48b6:g:CkcAAOxyKsZRwenD
Logitech z5500 (satellite speakers only)$61
2 control panels+2 sets of screws+shipping$277
Metal Coin Entry$18https://ebay.to/3u0Iul2
Octagonal gate x2$9https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VVG936...t_i_CZXD7DY2PSSYWSA2F7S4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Skateboard Wheels/bearings$14https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ILNK0R...t_i_YY34CMERBFP09S0GKEYA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
16 AWG Grounded Cable$9https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075BCD1LP?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1
DigiKey$29Various AMP-UP and Faston Connectors
Mouser$32Various AMP-UP and Faston Connectors
Running Total$2486

If you've made it this far, thanks for reading! I hope this can help people get a clearer understanding of the purchase process. And it's a lot easier to watch some idiot possibly lose $1800 than do it yourself :)

Hello, then 120v is not a problem for the monitor electronics. But be careful if you decide to use a SEGA amplifier for the stereo, because it takes exactly 100v to work.
For the Stereo connection do this: modify the control panel audio wiring and run 4 cables from here, 2 for the right speaker and two for the left.

IMG_0953.jpg


Arrived near the amplifier, break the cable and put a 4-pin male amp up.


IMG_0954.JPG


Now you have to create a small cable that allows you to connect the speakers in parallel to the speaker output of the power supply of the astro.
So when you are in mono you will be connected like this, when you have to go in stereo you will have to connect the speakers directly to the OUT output of the amplifier.
I hope you understand
biggrin.png

If you find the red 4 pin amp up for the IN input of the amp, let me know
crying.png
 
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The original cab went missing in transit? That’s awful. I hope it turns up one day. Good luck with the resto. Looking great.
 
Hello, then 120v is not a problem for the monitor electronics. But be careful if you decide to use a SEGA amplifier for the stereo, because it takes exactly 100v to work.
For the Stereo connection do this: modify the control panel audio wiring and run 4 cables from here, 2 for the right speaker and two for the left.

IMG_0953.jpg


Arrived near the amplifier, break the cable and put a 4-pin male amp up.


IMG_0954.JPG


Now you have to create a small cable that allows you to connect the speakers in parallel to the speaker output of the power supply of the astro.
So when you are in mono you will be connected like this, when you have to go in stereo you will have to connect the speakers directly to the OUT output of the amplifier.
I hope you understand
biggrin.png

If you find the red 4 pin amp up for the IN input of the amp, let me know
crying.png
Thanks for your thoughts here :). I have the male pin kept up in the control panel on my other cab instead of at the bottom since I don't need mono very often. I will be doing the same on this cabinet. It has been working great :D

IMG_9529 Large.jpeg
IMG_9530 Large.jpeg


Also, I tried to find a red connector as well! But they only sell them in bulk of 5000 pieces :( not worth it, lol.

The original cab went missing in transit? That’s awful. I hope it turns up one day. Good luck with the resto. Looking great.
Yeah.. well... that's what he said, haha. I don't trust him so I'm starting to think he forgot or just straight up scammed me. It's water under the bridge at this point. That was the risk I took and it didn't work out this time; but oh well! I think I have been able to provide a valuable point-of-view for any new candy-cab owners, at least!
 
Thanks for your thoughts here :). I have the male pin kept up in the control panel on my other cab instead of at the bottom since I don't need mono very often. I will be doing the same on this cabinet. It has been working great :D

IMG_9529 Large.jpeg
IMG_9530 Large.jpeg


Also, I tried to find a red connector as well! But they only sell them in bulk of 5000 pieces :( not worth it, lol.


Yeah.. well... that's what he said, haha. I don't trust him so I'm starting to think he forgot or just straight up scammed me. It's water under the bridge at this point. That was the risk I took and it didn't work out this time; but oh well! I think I have been able to provide a valuable point-of-view for any new candy-cab owners, at least!
Great job, enjoy your astro!
 
While I’m here, a quick update. It’s Monday so not much time for cab work. Of course the famous Logitech speaker swap. The four little posts on the mounts get in the way a little bit when mounting these so I took a dremel to the speakers. I didn’t want to get shavings in the speaker so I used some press ‘n seal to protect the cones. I wrapped the bottom in a rag and got to work.
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Now I just have to decide if I cut the connector off the speaker wires and re-crimp, or just cut the terminal on the speaker… I think I’ll do the latter as I did the former on my other cab. It works great, but I think I’d like to keep the wires original on this one.
 

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I'm glad to hear you journey is finally over. Not a good journey but at least you can enjoy your piece of mind.
Great work on the Astro.

I love seeing these restore threads
 
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