What's new
By:

CPS1 Multi. Official Thread

Kujako said:
I have a couple boxes of various sized M3 posts and spacers (example). I can most times find a combination that works.


Cool beans, will look for it. Going with the standard "Dash" one from them for now since I can always move it to my stock SF2 setup.
Click to expand...
Following up with this, here’s what it looks like put together. Used the feet Lions sent to offset the top/rear posts to get everything to line up. Not too bad, will definitely do for now.

34440E86-CA5A-47B3-9E76-4FD01612160B.jpeg
1604B54E-C4C3-448F-BAFE-2DF4498F2327.jpeg
4DC8F553-0373-479E-AFAF-1B0DF55258AC.jpeg
 
Last edited:
jassin000 said:
Special thanks to @Derick2k for the dual crystal PCB and @ekorz for desoldering/installing it for me.
Been re-playing the collection, as mentioned the presents of the "dash" file sets the state of the crystal to 12mhz, without it 10mhz.
Click to expand...
those out yet or was yours for testing? dunno if i missed that somehow
 
I got a special/early release of the latest revision of the dual crystal (not necessarily the final revision).
This latest version uses three connection points to the A-board (as opposed to 4 like the original crystal and early dual crystal revision).
It also features Reset/Q-sound consolidation points, which is really great/clean looking but WILL require to you wire these to alternative points (on the top side of the A-board, not the bottom side as featured in the official install instructions).

When next I dissemble my (hackjob) case I'll take some shots of the mod work, its all @ekorz doing so all credit (finding alternative solder points and moving the multi connections pins to the bottom side of the board) go's to him. :thumbup:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sorry been a bit busy. After some feedback from @ekorz @ShootTheCore I ordered pcbs for 2 revisions for the dual crystal boards, just to make sure that there is no interference from adding the extra connections. Also had to adjust caps a little. So when I get those in and test we will be ready to go. Apologies for the delays but I just want to make its 100%.

Looks like @jassin000 is enjoying the test PCB and its working well :thumbup:

Also ordered test boards for the auto rca switchboards.
 
Derick2k said:
Looks like @jassin000 is enjoying the test PCB and its working well :thumbup:
Click to expand...
I can find no problems with it, but right now I'm too busy enjoying Final Fight @ 10mhz (as the mighty Capcom intended) to switch again. :)

Oh that reminds me...
The original 12mhz Dash crystal was pulled/desoldered with great care/precision, so if anyone would like to buy it (maybe to upgrade a 10mhz A-board or something) PM me.
 
Hi,
I have PS 1.5 Multi at home and I am awaiting a SuperGun which should arrive next week and I have a few questions
On the left side there is Street Fighter 2 and on the right side Captain Commando. I will use the 92641C-1 board so I only use a switch to ON position on the CPS MULTI.
1658427637066.png

So if I understand it well the The CNI02 connectors have shared pins for kicks of Player 1 and Player 2 with Player 3 buttons. Correct?
What happen when I will play Street Fighter 2 and will have the 3rd controller plugged/attached? When I move for example on the Right on the 3rd controller I make Kick Light for Player 1? Does it work thisway?

The 3Player and 4Player harness is limited only for 2-button games.
And the CN6 header is missing on the CPS Multi. But the pins are connected to the 30-pin connector of the filter board.
But according to this table
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/CPS1#CP_System_Dash
I made a table with CN6 pins included here with descriptions of the pins.
1658427941554.png

the pin no. 3 4P Coin Lockout of the CN6 should be connected to pin R of the 30-pin edge while it is connected to pin 15. Why?
pins? I know that
CN6 pin 4 goes to S of the 30-pin edge
CN6 pin 5 goes to 14 of the 30-pin edge
CN6 pin 6 goes to R of the 30-pin edge
Could someone post there a marking/labelling of the CN6 header pins of the MULTI filter board?
1658427706697.png

thanks
 
I finally did the install. Easy setup and I have it in my SF2CE cab now!! This is probably my favorite multi. Amazing job @Darksoft @Mitsurugi-w and everyone else who helped make this a reality.

Does anyone have a 3d print for the DIP switches or how are ya'll mounting it if you put your multi in a cab? I have the LCD selector mounted inside the coin door but just leaving the DIP selector kinda sitting there for now.
 

Attachments

  • 20220719_223616.jpg
    20220719_223616.jpg
    152.1 KB · Views: 102
  • 20220719_223351.jpg
    20220719_223351.jpg
    197.7 KB · Views: 102
Rabik said:
What happen when I will play Street Fighter 2 and will have the 3rd controller plugged/attached? When I move for example on the Right on the 3rd controller I make Kick Light for Player 1? Does it work thisway?
Click to expand...

If the 3rd controller is plugged in for the Street Fighter 2 then the controls would be:
Right = P1 Light Kick
Left = P1 Medium Kick
Down = P1 Hard Kick
Shot 1 = P2 Light Kick
Shot 2 = P2 Medium Kick
Coin = P2 Hard Kick - may or may not be connected depending on how the 3rd controller is wired.

As for your other questions about how the original board's CN6 handles 3P4P Coin Count and Coin Lock signals, @Darksoft knows for sure, but I suspect that they weren't routed for the 30 pin connector on the Multi. They aren't really needed IMHO unless you're an arcade operator with the Multi in a 4 player cabinet that wants to track how many coins are being collected for each player. 3P and 4P work fine for game play as long as the directions and action buttons work.
 
Darksoft said:
Yes, they are not routed.
Click to expand...
So the signals are routed only to 30-pin edge connector on filter boardbut no further, not to MULTI.
I have another question. Some SuperGuns have connected 2P buttons 4 and 5 to c & d and 1P buttons to 25 & 26 pin of JAMMA edge.
1658585427113.png

These additional buttons could be "turned off" on Frank_fjs Advanced MiniGUN because some games "take" those signal from harness connector which is great. Correct?
And now a question about Slam Masters/Muscle Bomber games. As you see in the picture Slam Master is expects 2P button 4 on 25 but there is 1P button 4.
It is swapped. Is it solved somehow or everybody plays on swapped layout?
 
LittleLarrySellers said:
I finally did the install. Easy setup and I have it in my SF2CE cab now!! This is probably my favorite multi. Amazing job @Darksoft @Mitsurugi-w and everyone else who helped make this a reality.

Does anyone have a 3d print for the DIP switches or how are ya'll mounting it if you put your multi in a cab? I have the LCD selector mounted inside the coin door but just leaving the DIP selector kinda sitting there for now.
Click to expand...
I had made one. If you want I can put the file on my website if you wanted to print it out yourself or contact me if you need me to print one.
 

Attachments

  • 34AE107E-C3D6-4CF4-AEDA-790E51F5AF12.jpeg
    34AE107E-C3D6-4CF4-AEDA-790E51F5AF12.jpeg
    159.6 KB · Views: 127
  • DEFBF863-3DC3-47DC-BD59-9E4FDAFEDED3.jpeg
    DEFBF863-3DC3-47DC-BD59-9E4FDAFEDED3.jpeg
    113.4 KB · Views: 113
I saw the question asked a few pages ago but didn't see an answer :

1. Is Final Fight AE on the archive pack somewhere?
2. Is the Forgotten Worlds hack that lets you use buttons 2 and 3 to turn on there?

It's hard to tell on the LCD what's what, and I don't have the pack I used on my pc anymore.

If not, is there a tutorial on adding to your multi? I just know the ROMs are different than MAME ROMs, right?

Thx!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top