- Thread starter Darksoft
- Start date
Sorry to say @itman312
that’s a CPS 1.5 A board repopulated with crap parts. The original will look like this give or take a little variation. You want to see Yamaha silkscreened on the IC above the Z80, a heatsink in the audio section, and a full set of clearly factory caps.
https://www.jammarcade.net/images/2017/10/A-BOARD.jpg
that’s a CPS 1.5 A board repopulated with crap parts. The original will look like this give or take a little variation. You want to see Yamaha silkscreened on the IC above the Z80, a heatsink in the audio section, and a full set of clearly factory caps.
https://www.jammarcade.net/images/2017/10/A-BOARD.jpg
I THINK my board is working now.
I recapped the audio section. At first the audio in Forgotten Worlds which was already flashed was just playing a stuck note. Then after reflashing a few games (Ghouls n Ghosts, Mega Twins, Forgotten Worlds) and playing each for a few mins the music didn't drop out.
I took some pics of my board, does it look like anything is missing from the audio section?
Caps removed:
Caps installed:
The only other problem I have seen so far is this graphical glitching (white vertical lines that flash) in the background of the cave section in the first level of Mega Twins:
I recapped the audio section. At first the audio in Forgotten Worlds which was already flashed was just playing a stuck note. Then after reflashing a few games (Ghouls n Ghosts, Mega Twins, Forgotten Worlds) and playing each for a few mins the music didn't drop out.
I took some pics of my board, does it look like anything is missing from the audio section?
Caps removed:
Caps installed:
The only other problem I have seen so far is this graphical glitching (white vertical lines that flash) in the background of the cave section in the first level of Mega Twins:
What Donor Board to use for the CPS1 Multi
Based on the suggestions here, I spent even more money and bought another A board. The multikit still doesn't work.
@notsonic https://www.mvs-scans.com/images/6/62/Cps1_a_89626A-4_set1_top.jpg is high res. There's a tantalum cap at CC20 though I think some folks say it's optional. Lots of jumpers that I'm not sure what they do either. Same goes for the surface mounted caps/jumpers. It's hard to see if you have them all. I haven't chased down everything personally -- it seems a bit of a chore trying to undo the previous work honestly -- but here are some schematics you could use: https://pcbjunkie.net/index.php/guides/capcom-cps-cps-1-repair-guide/
Another thing I'd do is add in an actual YM2151 and YM3012, a Z80A, and honestly whatever else is socketed. Then I'd go over all the other sound chips and see if they were installed properly, like that OKI repro for example. Certainly test the 2015 ram they added (looks like it's in a socket too) below the z80.
Another thing I'd do is add in an actual YM2151 and YM3012, a Z80A, and honestly whatever else is socketed. Then I'd go over all the other sound chips and see if they were installed properly, like that OKI repro for example. Certainly test the 2015 ram they added (looks like it's in a socket too) below the z80.
Looks better, I'd use that one. The OKI and CPS A-01 look reflowed if not replaced. What doesn't work with that one?
I can't run any games. The LCD will say that it's "now playing" but it doesn't work. Some games will be blank. Willow will have this flashing stripe pattern.
And SF games will have this error.
What does that A board do with an original B+C?
Plays Street Fighter II
Just confirming @itman312 after looking at your posts -- you have 3 A boards - 2 chinese cps1.5 rebuilds and one original Dash from (presumably) SF2CE. We're talking about the Dash A right now. It plays SF2CE fine, and when you remove the original B Board, solder the reset + qsound wires, swap the pal on the A, and re-seat the original C board -- you can't get the multi to play SF2CE? I only ask because the fewer variables the better. Also just confirming... romset from archive.org, SD card is SDHC not SDXC, and you're using a PC to format the SD card? (tried a couple SD cards?)
Anything missing?
Anything missing?
Almost feels like what I went through with my setup and it turned out to be the C board. Something on it was re-programmed so that it Only plays nice with Captain Commando (only full ROM set B board I have). I bought a different C board that was marked as Unmodified. The battery removal bodge was done, but I undid that and use it on the multi and it worked. My 2cents.
It's working now! For the most recent board I tried, I had left off the QSound and Reset wires because I assumed I wouldn't need them just for testing purposes. It turns out they are needed. Thank you to everyone who helped.
Thanks for the tips. I haven't pulled the boards apart yet to see what might not be original since it was working.
I say was because after about 15 minutes or so the music dropped out of Final Fight and then all the audio.
I have another A board coming from what I believe is an American origin as it has all original chips, all things look populated, and it has the original Dash and serial stickers. It's even got the original pcb spacers and mounting feet. I've also ordered one of those repro C boards Darksoft just put up.
The resef for sure must be attached, otherwise the b21 won't be programmed and nothing will work.
The only other problem I have seen so far is this graphical glitching (white vertical lines that flash) in the background of the cave section in the first level of Mega Twins:
There is a fix for these white bars on P1 on this thread. Just place the file in the root of your SD card, turn the Multi on and it should update.
Well good news. The new A board works. It's an all original, unmolested, USDM, Dash A board.
I wish I knew what exactly the problem is with my other A board. There's nothing that really stands out like those 1.5 boards with half assed audio sections. It does have signs of work/repair though.
I think the only lesson to be learned is for this multi, don't get an A board from China. I don't know how prevalent sound issues are but I wonder if it warrants its own thread and disclaimer in the manual.
I wish I knew what exactly the problem is with my other A board. There's nothing that really stands out like those 1.5 boards with half assed audio sections. It does have signs of work/repair though.
- The volume pot is not the usual white one. It's smaller, orange, and it has an orange sticker under it.
- The OKI chip is not branded but it is marked 6295 1998.
- The YM3012 is faded so I can't tell for sure but it does say YM3012.
- The YM2151 is Yamaha branded, made in Japan.
- The Z80 is NEC branded instead of Zilog.
- The 68k is Hitachi, not Motorola.
- The CPS-A-01 looks reworked.
I think the only lesson to be learned is for this multi, don't get an A board from China. I don't know how prevalent sound issues are but I wonder if it warrants its own thread and disclaimer in the manual.
Great news! Congrats!
You did the right thing. Got an original A Board and all is good!!!
I hope people learn from your experience. Don't use shit from China who only gosh nows what it really went through.
100% agree with you.
Well, when you say there is nothing that stands out and then I see that list, I have a small contradiction feeling
You did the right thing. Got an original A Board and all is good!!!I hope people learn from your experience. Don't use shit from China who only gosh nows what it really went through.
