Vewlix stock monitor - IPS replacement (Vewlix L)

[FrancoB]

Awesome, twins!

The 10mm x 1mm gasket turned up today so I got that fitted to the inside of the bezel:

I used [this] stuff if anyone wants to know.

10mm width seems to be the sweet spot. it's enough to fully cover the edges of the display but it doesn't encroach too much and interfere with the brackets. You can see now why I added the clearance to the bottom of the brackets, using anything over 10mm would have meant adding even more clearance:

I intentionally left a gap between the underside of the clamp part of the bracket and the display. I was going to print some packers to take up the space but I found one piece of the foam on the bracket and one piece on the monitor was enough to hold it snugly. I also found that my heatshrink guillotine is ideal for accurately cutting foam tape too

Now brace yourself for the next photo...................
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I've added wood to a Vewlix!

Don't worry, this is is only temporary and is being used to work out how deep I need to make the VESA>Vewlix mount. I estimated it was about 60mm. I screwed a couple of bits of wood/WDF together and screwed them into pace from the back of the cab. I need to remeasure but I think these two bits came to about 51mm deep. I figured I can then measure the drop and then add it to the ~51mm. 'Dry fitting' the monitor also helps to see what type of profile I need to make the mount.

Luckily the power cable for the monitor is at a right angle and I also found a right angle HDMI adapter:

Looks to need about an extra 8mm so a ~60mm depth mount will be required which should leave plenty of room for cable routing:

Of course I had to fire her up too:

So it definitely looks like this has some legs. Thanks again for sharing your idea @Aurich I still want to work on a more universal solution later in the year but this will get both cabs playable again

I need to concentrate on some other stuff for a few days but I'll pick this up again next week. I'll get some more brackets printed for my other Vewlix and replacement display in the mean time.

I'm more than happy to share the STLs and/or .STPs if anyone wants to print or modify their own. I'll get them uploaded to Printables.com with a description etc when I get a bit more time but if anyone wants the files in the mean time just shout.

 

[Aurich]

The 10mm x 1mm gasket turned up today so I got that fitted to the inside of the bezel:

Nice, I did something similar with adhesive backed foam. I didn't worry about the width, where my 3D printed clips are I just trimmed the foam around them so they slot in.

Don't worry, this is is only temporary and is being used to work out how deep I need to make the VESA>Vewlix mount. I estimated it was about 60mm.

Here was my method: I laid the new monitor and the stock one next to each other, face down on a towel. Them put a straight edge across the back of the stock monitor and used my caliper to measure down from that to the new monitor. That gave me the gap between them that i need to fill.

I can't give you the number because I didn't actually measure to the raw monitor, I put some of my acrylic into the VESA mount first.

 

[Aurich]

I haven't had time to finish things, I test fitted last night and discovered one of my measurements was off, my M8 bolts are just a little too low. So I need to recut the big clear acrylic part with everything shifted 10mm up. But this is the basic look of it all:

 

[Chebby]

Awesome stuff Boys, I've bought an LG 32gn600 to swap my stock 720 monitor,
so much interesting information here .
From what I've understand those clamp are attached to the entire frame of the old monitor right?

 

[Aurich]

From what I've understand those clamp are attached to the entire frame of the old monitor right?

Yes, the way it's put together is there's the old commercial monitor in a metal cage, and it's screwed into a metal frame, which then has four pieces that go around it to clamp the glass down.

What we're doing is replacing the metal cage that takes the screws with 3D printed parts that take the screws and just pressure fit the monitor into place.

Once it's all mounted the entire thing is really supported by the cab and gravity, no one part is really holding anything, so it should be plenty secure once in place.

 

[Chebby]

Yes, the way it's put together is there's the old commercial monitor in a metal cage, and it's screwed into a metal frame, which then has four pieces that go around it to clamp the glass down.

What we're doing is replacing the metal cage that takes the screws with 3D printed parts that take the screws and just pressure fit the monitor into place.

Once it's all mounted the entire thing is really supported by the cab and gravity, no one part is really holding anything, so it should be plenty secure once in place.

oh so you basically use only the four metal pieces screwed onto the 3d printed clamps 0_0

 

[FrancoB]

oh so you basically use only the four metal pieces screwed onto the 3d printed clamps 0_0

This is a picture of the stock monitor bezel and the stock display. The OG eight mounting points are ringed in red:

What we've done is to remove the stock monitor thats mounted using eight M4 JIS CSK screws. As the replacement monitors we're fitting are much smaller in lenght, width and height, we've printed eight brackets that act both as a spacer (to take up the XY slack) and to also hold the monitor in place. (in Z) Speaking personally, I'm currently using the same eight M4 JIS CSK screws to mount the 3D printed brackets.

Here was my method: I laid the new monitor and the stock one next to each other, face down on a towel. Them put a straight edge across the back of the stock monitor and used my caliper to measure down from that to the new monitor. That gave me the gap between them that i need to fill.

I can't give you the number because I didn't actually measure to the raw monitor, I put some of my acrylic into the VESA mount first.

I couldnt get both monitors on my desk at the same time but I used a similar method. Using a straight edge (and the oh so important towel) I measure the drop from the stock monitor to my desk. I then repeated the measurement with the replacement monitor. Subracting the difference between the two gave me a drop of 60mm. this was before I had applied the 1mm foam gasket. I've measured the wooden test parts (52mm) and the drop from the Vewlix speaker frame to the monitor (7mm) and this gives me a total of 59mm, so not too far from the 60mm estimate with the 1mm gasket taken into consideration.

I haven't had time to finish things, I test fitted last night and discovered one of my measurements was off, my M8 bolts are just a little too low. So I need to recut the big clear acrylic part with everything shifted 10mm up. But this is the basic look of it all:

Man, I love this picture so much! I presume you have your own laser? I've been lusting after one for 10+ years but I I've never had a suitable property for one until now. Soon™

This is very close to what I was thinking. I have two Dia Blues (one horizontal and one vertical) and although I might never change orientations I want to make a mount that I can use to fit the monitor in both orientations.

Also, I would like to use a female plate on the back of the assembly (similar to the stock mount) to align the planes of both the mount and monitor. It's then much easier to fit a machine screw between the Vewlix back frame and monitor mount. I think trying to align male studs into the female back plate could be tricky, especially in the vertical orientation as you tend to drop the bottom in and then tilt/rorate the monitor into position. The mounting slots are vertically oriented though which is in our favour.

This in what I'm currently thinking. I've not modelled in the bolts etc but you get the idea.

View: https://youtu.be/zX4g46okrQo


Six of the holes should hole the monitor horizontally another array of six should hold it vertically.

I'll mock up/confirm the dimensions using some thin/cheap material before committing to the final pieces which will either be 6/8mm acrylic or 3mm steel depending on what I can source.

 

[Aurich]

Man, I love this picture so much! I presume you have your own laser? I've been lusting after one for 10+ years but I I've never had a suitable property for one until now. Soon™

Yes, I have a 50watt with a 600x400mm cutting area. I wanted one for years too, and a couple years ago I made it happen. I use it a ton, extremely useful tool. It compliments a 3D printer wonderfully, I do a lot of projects that use the strengths of both. Highly recommended for creative makers like you clearly are!

This is my latest project I'm doing on it:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCq3Nc1ZDu4


I mounted my first monitor successfully today. The only hiccup is there is just a little bit of flex in my bracket, so the top wasn't sitting as flush as it should. I just 3D printed a couple quick braces that clip onto the edge of the frame and keep the top from pushing in. Totally hidden on final install, easy.

I'm never going to rotate these, I have a dedicated cab for vertical shmups, these are basically fighting games only, so I didn't need to worry about that extra complication.

 

[notsonic]

I just replaced another F monitor with an LG 32GP750-B. I'm still in the IPS is the only worthwhile panel mindset. It's funny to see the newer Vewlix monitors only use 8 screws for the bezel/frame. The F uses like 30, no exaggeration.

I used a Hadouken bracket though.

 

[FrancoB]

@Aurich - Holy shit, that's ace! I have questions! I'll shoot you a PM if that's ok with you.

Glad to hear you've got yours mounted. I did wonder if flex would be an issue, this might be even more of an issue when the monitor is mounted vertically. I'm hoping the 230x230mm back plate on mine should keep that section fairly sturdy once bolted up but I guess it depends where the flex is. Worst case scenario I might need some braces/supports like yours.

Could you do me a favour and check this dimension on your design? Its from the lower VESA hole to the lower mounting point/bolt location on the Vewlix. I've got 48mm from my calculations but I would like to know what you have seeing as you've fitted yours.

@notsonic - Good stuff. I picked up these two 1080p VA panels really cheaply just to get me going. Ideally I would like to use 32" gaming OLEDs once they're available but these will suffice for the mean time. The cost of two Hadouken brackets, shipping and import fees killed that option pretty quickly. That's why I decided to DIY, plus its fun too

 

[notsonic]

If you're not already familiar with the Hadouken bracket, the way it works is basically the new monitor mounts to the bracket and then the frame also mounts to the bracket. That means the monitor's vesa mounts are only responsible for it's own weight.

I wonder if it would be reasonable to DIY that approach. A flat plate for the back with the 4 mounting holes. right angle brackets to attach said plate to the frame. Then you could use a right angle on the plate and a right angle on the monitor so they meet in the middle rather than like long standoffs/spacers.

 

[FrancoB]

My idea was to CNC cut some thin steel plates to bolt to the inside top and bottom of the monitor frame and then use 2040 aluminum extrusion to brace across the back. Adapters/plates can then be easily fitted to various sides of the 2040 extrusion and fit the display to the 2040 section and then the 2040 section to the cab.

I've put off development of this as I need CNC access. It's something I could do at work but I was kinda saving it as a project for some upcoming toys later this year

Yeah, as above that's pretty much what my original plan is. It's something I would still like to develop as it makes it more of a universal solution and can fit a variety of monitors whereas what we've been working on here is monitor specific. If I can get it designed and working I'll upload the files for people to make their own. It should be a fairly inexpensive BOM.

 

[Aurich]

I have questions! I'll shoot you a PM if that's ok with you.

For sure, ask away.

Could you do me a favour and check this dimension on your design? Its from the lower VESA hole to the lower mounting point/bolt location on the Vewlix. I've got 48mm from my calculations but I would like to know what you have seeing as you've fitted yours.

Very close to yours, and with all the play in the slots on the back obviously not a critical measurement.

 

[Aurich]

Good to go, second one went way faster than the first, once I knew what I was doing and could just make all the right parts the first time. They look great, very pleased.

 

[FrancoB]

Great stuff man, well done!

 

[Chebby]

Bravi!

 

[ikefc]

Good to go, second one went way faster than the first, once I knew what I was doing and could just make all the right parts the first time. They look great, very pleased.

I´m happy to see you finished the change in both machines reimagining at your own style from my idea,well done!

I´m curious where you find out these nice SFVI arcade type artworks,it is shareable ?

 

[Aurich]

I´m curious where you find out these nice SFVI arcade type artworks,it is shareable ?

I made them, I didn't like the stock arcade ones, too much Luke.

Several people have been interested in them, I don't mind sharing. I'll make a new thread for visibility.

Edit: Thread here https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...ix-marquee-and-move-strip-original-art.25196/

 

[Aurich]

Played our first real sets on the new monitors last night. They look great, really pleased with the upgrade. Going from 720p to 1440p is quite a leap.

I haven't done any lag testing yet, but I am curious to try.

 

[notsonic]

Since it's SF6 I assume you're using PCs?

Have you had any issues with vsync or tearing between the two displays? I can't seem to get my setup to not have tearing on one display. I've tried setting them both to 60hz, different cables, forcing vsync on or off, toggling freesync, no good. I can only assume it's either because they're two different monitors, or my video card isn't up for it for whatever reason.