What's new
By:

Blast City / Astro City / Astro City 2 / NNC - Restorations

Tearing my hair out on this Arthrimus \ Dreamcast buttons issue.

I had everything sorted out last night. All buttons working including start for P1 and P2 with Brooks Retro Board and Arthrimus. Today I cant get start buttons working. Checked that everything is seated correctly.

Even when start was working, i could not get in game reset to work even though all the buttons worked individually. I wonder if I am triggering some of the built in button combo shortcuts in the arthrimus or something.

Still no luck. Idk if i am having IO board issues \ brooks issues \ or arthrimus issues.

---

Seems like when I close the panel the buttons get messed up. Wonder if I have a loose pin or something making contact that shouldn't.

—-

Starting to think this is a Dreamcast problem. Naomi seems to have start buttons working each and every time. Wonder if DC controller board needs to be replaced.
 
Last edited:
IMG_5128.jpeg



IMG_5160.jpeg


IMG_5046.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5160.jpeg
    IMG_5160.jpeg
    113.5 KB · Views: 64
MS-8 really frustrating. Tried to adjust the G2 Screen pot on the bottom of the flyback and just turned it down a tad. Now I hear a contsant clicking followed by the screen flickering.

Was using a proper pot adjustment tool. Argh.
 
This is it when it was working briefly.

IMG_5433.jpeg


---

Edit: Turned down the screen control then it stopped with the clicking - think i might have got the colors decent but sun is filling up the room gonna wait until later to check it at night.
 
Last edited:
Got my MS8 as dialed in as I could. The image is passable. Not sure though. Still see yellow on screen transitions. Still looks super blurry.

I have another "burn free" tube coming from Yaton with another tested chassis. Think I will swap in the tube with the Sharp Image Repaired chassis and see if the new tube makes a difference.

I don't know if the MS-8 just is not as clear as the MS-9 or if my tube could play a role in it. I played with the POTs the best I could. I know a user on this thread said the MS8 is much clearer. Currently colors seem washed out, and picture is fuzzy even after messing with focus POT.

Kind of just want to get a MS-9 chassis at this point but im not sure if I can use that chassis with just some yoke wire adapters or if I need some other cables made, or need to consider possible drawbacks. I should just be happy for a while before diving into more work lol.
 
Segafan1985 said:
I don't know if the MS-8 just is not as clear as the MS-9 or if my tube could play a role in it.
Click to expand...

I thought MS-8 were famous for sharpness but infamous for being picky with sync on some PCBs. Vice versa for MS-9, hence the sharpness mod kit.

I once had a NAC with Hitachi tube and MS-9 chassis. It was super sharp at 15khz, no mod required.
 
meybarra said:
I thought MS-8 were famous for sharpness but infamous for being picky with sync on some PCBs. Vice versa for MS-9, hence the sharpness mod kit.

I once had a NAC with Hitachi tube and MS-9 chassis. It was super sharp at 15khz, no mod required.
Click to expand...
Starting to think it is a convergence issue.
 
IMG_5576.jpeg


IMG_5578.jpeg


IMG_5577.jpeg



On the right side you can see the red not aligned correctly and on the left you can see red green and blue next to eachother. Wonder if I can try some strips.
 
Yeah, convergence is definitely off. Since it runs down entirely sides, almost looks like yoke has moved or is missing a magnet. Expect to be a little off anywhere but center 50% of screen, but this looks to be off quite a bit more.
 
JohnRambo'sKnife said:
Yeah, convergence is definitely off. Since it runs down entirely sides, almost looks like yoke has moved or is missing a magnet. Expect to be a little off anywhere but center 50% of screen, but this looks to be off quite a bit more.
Click to expand...
Strips are better for fixing corner convergence?

I figured I could experiment with this tube and when I get my replacement hope it doesn’t have the same issues.

IMG_4963.jpeg


1719429423901.png



1719429454593.png
 
Last edited:
Does anyone own an Atomiswave cabinet?

Are they pricey or about the same as other candies?

Known drawbacks or postives?
 
Got my new Ms8 and tube. Put my existing chassis on the new tube and not getting any red. Red gain doesn’t work on the remote board. I tried the old and new remote board. Wonder if I have a loose connection on the chassis.

Anyone ever had this happen before?
 
So did alot of testing this weekend. Still need to give it a few more goes.

But basically new chassis appears dead does not turn on with either tube (one i just got or my existing one)

With my reconditioned chassis from Sharp and new tube, I can get all colors except Red. Red Gain does nothing on the remote board.

Tested it with 2 remote boards.

My amateur conclusion is that somehow the Red gun failed \ damaged during shipping within the new tube.


IMG_6079.jpeg
 
Has anyone ever put a Blast City like a MS-2930 or MS-2931 chassis and tube in an Astro City?

I am wondering if a MS2930 and matching tube (toshiba A68SM696X-01) would fit in my Astro City 2.
 
Segafan1985 said:
So did alot of testing this weekend. Still need to give it a few more goes.

But basically new chassis appears dead does not turn on with either tube (one i just got or my existing one)

With my reconditioned chassis from Sharp and new tube, I can get all colors except Red. Red Gain does nothing on the remote board.

Tested it with 2 remote boards.

My amateur conclusion is that somehow the Red gun failed \ damaged during shipping within the new tube.


IMG_6079.jpeg
Click to expand...

If you got no red, most likely there is something damage on the neck board, not the tube! just swap the neck board to confirm this, then will be easy to address the issue just comparing the two neck board PCB , just testing any component in red line
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top