Yoke and tube specs for monitors

RepairGuy95 said:

Might you know if the yoke from a nanao ms8/9 will fit properly on a nanao 2930/31/34 tube?

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Unfortunately I would say no. I have an Ms8 yoke and the horizontal impedance falls in line with switchable cga/mi res (24khz) yoke at o.45 mh ( I believe MS9 would be similar. I have to measure the Ms2930 yoke but it is in the garage and right now it is about -20deg c out there. Will do tomorrow but I am certain it is around 0.2 my. Also please note the diameter of the neck on the 32” tube is likely larger than the 27” so the 27” and 32” would also make it incompatible. Do you have other 27” tubes stashed away? We are looking for one out of a vga monitor suck as wells d9200 or others.
Rick
Hope that helps

Hi Guys,

Im back again..just have a few questions for the arcade gurus here.

I recently ordered a (junk labelled chassis) from yahoo japan auctions for what i thought was meant to be a dead Nanao MS2933 (for parts). Instead, i have been sent what looks to be an almost new Toshiba PD0214 Arcade Chassis. This thing really looks like it has been seldom used or has been given an excellent cleaning job.

Anyway, I cant seem to find much info about this chassis except for that fact that its most likely a tri sync and has dual focus. It only appears to have a VGA input.

Does anyone have any more info on this particular or similar chassis? (PD Toshiba's) Or know if these is a decent Tri Sync board...

Would anyone have the required Yoke Specs to match ? Reading the above very helpful posts, if i can find a yoke that reads 0.200 - 0.280mh on the horizontal that would be a very good start if this is indeed a trisync.

Im just trying to figure out if I sell this as is, or end up using it for something: EG a project with one of the EDTV / HDTVS i have that are 68 CM and VGA Enabled.

Here are some pictures of the chassis .

Appreciate any advice or help.
Thanks all

That's an odd chassis. Middle connector is labeled 25K, but nothing else to swap to it.

PD0032 and PD0613 are both dual sync chassis.

But then there's the dual focus socket?

Anyway, I wouldn't make too many assumptions on what that thing should be connected to. You could look up info on the ICs.

My only guess is this may have been used in some sort of showcase cabinet in the model 2/3 era where big dual focus tubes were common and they needed mid res. Konami was known to commission custom chassis from Toei and Toshiba, so it's possible it's from some larger Konami game.

Thanks guys for your feedback and info here.
@nem good idea, ill start to research some of the chips on the board and see what i come up with. Good spot on the middle connector also, it actually has 26K written on it...Strange ?

Ill report back any findings, otherwise I might just park this one on the shelf for now.

Update: x 3 Chips noted on the board are LA7856 , Mitsubishi M52327SP & TDA1675A (Vertical Deflection) . Chat GPT is telling this is a 15khz chassis with these chips but a quick google shows these chips can be indeed used on some tri sync chassis, such as the LA7856 can be found on some Sanwa Trisync's. I definetly need to research more.

Update 2: Now i feel a bit silly, flipped to the underside of the board and we have another model number guys - Toshiba R-1781
When i google this i find many differnt results

PapaBergsy said:

Update 2: Now i feel a bit silly, flipped to the underside of the board and we have another model number guys - Toshiba R-1781

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That's a red herring. PB9929 has the same model number under the flyback. It's a completely different chassis (possibly using the same flyback though).

@nem Thanks for confirming. I think I will park this one for now.
Appreciate the advice

Hello, someone what's chassis could be compatible with MATSUSHITA Pure Flat A68MAU085X90 please? Original chassi is KW0606A SANWA PFX. Maybe PB 9929 from Toshiba PF (original tube: A68LTF356X.
Thanks.

Any PF chassis will work. There's a cap on the neck board you can change if you feel the image is overly bright:

I’m trying to fit a ms9 yoke with an ms9 chassis but seems like the colour connectors do not match. Where does the colour signals go from the chassis?

I think that’s a MS8 yoke, instead of an MS9

VodkaGobalsky said:

I’m trying to fit a ms9 yoke with an ms9 chassis but seems like the colour connectors do not match. Where does the colour signals go from the chassis?

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That's not a MS9 yoke. MS9 yoke have a separate connector for the horizontal and vertical. This looks more like a MS8 yoke.
The other thing you can do is break that connector and make it into 2 connector. But I don't recommend it.

VodkaGobalsky said:

I’m trying to fit a ms9 yoke with an ms9 chassis but seems like the colour connectors do not match. Where does the colour signals go from the chassis?

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Edit: Before I posted below I didn’t even see the yoke was wrong - so take my posts with a grain of salt - they’re not relevant - and yes get the right yoke.

You may need to re-pin some new connectors that fit the two separate connection points on the board. There is another you’ll see like the one you photographed but with a narrower pitch from memory. You may even be lucky enough to cut that exisiting four-way connector in half and plug the now two connectors straight into the board - if the pitches are correct.

dammit, I should have checked what I got.

VodkaGobalsky said:

dammit, I should have checked what I got.

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Don’t worry. It’s not a deal breaker. You’ll get it sorted. I got some pins and connectors from arcadepartsandrepair from memory - although people source them from aliexpress I think as well. I can’t help you with part numbers right now but there are threads on here with them.

They sent me the wrong stuff
Is it worth it for me to try to convert it to work wit MS9 or should I look to buy another actual MS9 yoke?

VodkaGobalsky said:

They sent me the wrong stuff
Is it worth it for me to try to convert it to work wit MS9 or should I look to buy another actual MS9 yoke?

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I would persist with this one personally. Measure the distance between both the horizontal and vertical deflection pins on the board and see if that matches the distance between the two groups in your four way plug. RED/BLUE and the other two. If the same then that’s good. You could cut it in half and connect them - as long as the female pin on the cut plug is the right size to fit. You could test that first by just plugging in one pin of the four as a test. Power off etc obviously. This is from Grok AI:

Those four wires are the deflection yoke leads (two for horizontal deflection, two for vertical). On a Nanao MS9 they plug into the chassis as two separate 2-pin connectors rather than one 4-pin plug (the MS8 often used a single 4-pin).

Typical colour coding on MS9 yokes:

• Horizontal: red + blue
• Vertical: brown + yellow (sometimes brown + white/grey)

On the chassis the headers are usually labelled CN501 (horizontal, closer to the flyback, wider pin spacing) and CN401 (vertical).

The plastic housings themselves are small 2-pin connectors (commonly sourced as 2.36 mm pitch types such as the CM1001 style from arcade parts suppliers). They are not a single well-known branded series like the JST VH/EH used elsewhere on the MS9; people just call them the yoke connectors or yoke plugs.

Some more AI blurb for you. Obviously I’m no authority but know enough to at least explore this option if you don’t want the pain of researching and ordering parts.

Cutting a typical MS8-style 4-pin yoke plug in half is a common workaround, but only one half is a reliable drop-in fit.


• Red/blue (horizontal) — usually fits the MS9 horizontal header (CN501, the one nearer the flyback with slightly wider pin spacing) after you split the housing.


• Brown/yellow (vertical) — the remaining half of that same 4-pin housing is typically too large for the MS9 vertical pins (CN401). It will be loose or won’t seat properly. People normally re-terminate those two wires into a smaller 2-pin housing (commonly the 1.55 mm style such as CN1001 + matching pins from arcade parts suppliers).


Keep the pairs separate: horizontal only to the H header, vertical only to the V header. Mixing them can damage the chassis. Each pair can be reversed independently if you need to flip or rotate the picture.


If the original 4-pin housing is the type with uneven pin spacing, cut between the second and third pins so each pair stays intact. After cutting, check that the remaining plastic still grips the pins tightly on the horizontal side before powering anything up.