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Glad to see you on here! Cheers from Union Bridge!

This one? I’d love to know more about it and see it reproduced! Absolutely! The RAM in question are the ones located right above the larger EPROMs on the back PCB, right above CN3. I tried forcing a RAM clear by holding TEST and SERVICE (and both at once just for the hell of it) with no...

Hey all, I’ve hit a wall with this and could use a hand. I’ve burned ROMs for Gradius II for a Cue Brick PCB, and it’s telling me all of the RAM above the 4MEG EPROMs are bad. Specifically, M14, M15, M17, and M19 I’ve run the same ROMs in MAME with no issues. Does anyone have any idea why...

Interesting, I was under the same impression but flipping DIP4 on an untouched Pop’n 18 kit last week forced 15khz on a trisync.. I’ll have to mess around with that more.

Note that Pop’n forces 15khz in software unless someone hacks that out in bootscripts - so chances are the game is pushing 15khz

There is a white metal plate on the bottom left side of the air string.. From what I've heard stuff from KC has come unassembled, missing pieces, disconnected, etc.. I'm hoping it's just a matter of your connectors not being connected.

As nem said all DJ MAIN Pop'n cabinets shipped with Toei monitors. It's possible that someone replaced it down the line with a Nanao (probably an MS9) at some point since the Toei tubes have a high failure rate. When you say it's a Toshiba monitor I'm assuming you mean that it's a Toshiba tube...

I've swapped a mocap boxing board into a Para 2nd, but that required swapping over the security dongle as well. The security dongle is in a transistor style packaging. Not sure if any other viper games utilize that protection method, but I'd assume all of them do. If the RTC fails I believe you...

Retail PS3s display that same warning about overheating once the problem has occurred. You could fix the issue (ex: reflow, new thermal under/over GPU or CPU lid, new thermal pads, clean fans) and it’ll still say something about it. If you’ve taken all of the steps In parenthesis I wouldn’t...

I'll take one of these for a Vewlix - thanks for this!

Moisture in your tube / chassis can be super terrible. If you insist on washing it, as long as you keep it next to a running dehumidifier for a few days you should be good to go. I regularly wash older PCBs like K7000s before recapping, but I’ve not once had to wash a tube with water. You’re...

Hey Toby! Glad to see you on here! I’m trying to be a bit more social with arcade stuff too, since I’m working on opening up a place in Baltimore this year :)

the cash box key is yours - it's just a matter of finding it. I'll reach out to the engineering team at Unit-e and see if they have any ideas on a suitable replacement for the original material. thank you for getting the ROMs dumped and in MAME. There's a few games that are floating around my...

i'm a little late to this thread - but that's my old flash beats machine! That's my handwriting on the "2 Quarters" sticker. Quite a story behind this.. The control panel was damaged in shipping from Japan when it was delivered to Gemini Arcade Palace in Las Vegas, NV some time before 2011...

Hey there! I own two Fighting Mania cabinets (the korean release). It's been a few years since I've messed with any of it. The 573 initially reads data from the CD, installs main game data onto the CF card, and reads most game data off the CD-ROM. There are patched CD-ROMs that don't check for...

I've got the same board set, a 2 PCB version of The Final Round - I'd love to attempt the same conversion on mine. Hoping to get a little time this weekend to see if it's feasible.

Time to fund some projects, so PCBs that have been sitting need to go. All prices include USPS Priority shipping + tracking within the USA. I will ship overseas if you don’t mind coordinating. Atari Centipede PCB / Tested & Works / $100 Atari XEVIOUS PCB, Wiring Harness, Power Supply and...

I’ve got a working one I could sell for $150 shipped within the USA. If you’re getting wacky readings in the gun calibration menu try this before hunting down another sensor: - reseat optical sensor to it’s connector inside the gun - swap optical sensor from known working gun to the other side

I could have sworn I tested the ground, but I will try again when I'm at the shop tomorrow. I did a continuity test on the individual harness connector, and there were no problems there. I thought maybe I was missing something simple like a jumper as well, but I didn't see anything that would...

Sure thing, updated again with panel wiring pictures - let me know if you need more detail.