I have a 3-5 console with a fresh recap and unibios 4.0 and get graphical glitches on the latest firmware and menu. I rolled back to the previous firmware and it seems to have fixed all the constant glitches within games. However, I can get this repeatable garbled screen (1st picture) on games if I'm in MVS mode and let the Neo Geo splash screen play and don't hit start. It's the screen that comes up next. The particular game pictured is Last Blade 2 but it happens on other games as well. The latest firmware had the same issue. I also get no sound on the splash screen when in MVS mode even after restoring soft dip settings to default.
These issues are no big deal to me, but would like to confirm if you think they're software related. I recently bridged the pins in my cartridge and I'm wondering if that had anything to do with it, or it's just coincidence that I didn't notice that garbled screen til now. I usually play in AES mode so there's a decent chance I've just never discovered it.
One question... After bridging the pins I noticed the wire sits just below the black plate that the pcbs slide through (2nd picture). I now know I should have ideally made a "U" shape and gone above the pins, but would really love to not have to open the cart again. Does this look scary to anyone who has knowledge of how far down these sit into the connector on the AES? It did to me at first but after careful examination I see no signs it's hitting anything. Continuity is good on both sets of bridged pins. Thanks for any info.
With RGB bypass, the solution suggested by JNX, not the one from retrorgb, I've solved a few problems. The most annoying was the one that sometime screen flashes (brightness increases for a second then returns back to normal).
as NEOGEO is my favorite and most expensive console I own (and I own basically every console since Megadrive), when I recapped I bought the best caps I could. About RGBBypass, doing it the way JNX suggests, I've basically removed 4 410uF caps from video output (and cut off composite signal)...maybe that could be the reason I don't have any glitches
I'm looking for some advice:
I am trying to replace the front capacitor on my AES 3-5 (light blue cap in the picture). I have bought a replacement capacitor (dark blue cap in other picture) but it looks like the legs are too thick to go through the holes. Am I right? I want to check before I start trying to replace it.
If it's unsuitable, I could order the "Panasonic 2200uf Fg 16v or 25v low ESR".
Any help is appreciated.
I haven't had any problem with the size of the caps' legs so far...only with the space between them (that is easily fixable). I don't know that cap you bought, I'm sorry, in any case if you remove the old cap in a proper way you can put it back...be careful not put much heat on it.