SNK-NEO-GEO
Enlightened
- Thread starter invzim
- Start date
Small firmware update that adds an OLED screen-saver that kicks in after 5 minutes.
https://irkenlabs.com/jvs-pac2/firmware-update
The specified lifetime of the OLED modules is 10,000 hours after which it's reduced to 50% brightness.
If you leave the JVS-PAC 2 connected to a PC for prolonged periods of times, you should probably update.
https://irkenlabs.com/jvs-pac2/firmware-update
The specified lifetime of the OLED modules is 10,000 hours after which it's reduced to 50% brightness.
If you leave the JVS-PAC 2 connected to a PC for prolonged periods of times, you should probably update.
A bugfix release of the firmware is now available. If IO board disconnected or rebooted while the JVS-PAC 2 is still running, coin would stop working.
https://irkenlabs.com/jvs-pac2/firmware-update
Lab is slowly getting operational and I plan to have another poke at Mister soon.
https://irkenlabs.com/jvs-pac2/firmware-update
Lab is slowly getting operational and I plan to have another poke at Mister soon.
J
jassin000
I discovered an interesting "quark" the other day that isn't really related to the JVSPAC but I still wanted to talk about it.
So MAME properly blocks Windows system keys like Ctrl+ and Alt+ when active/maximized.
Thus using the commonly mapped left Ctrl & Alt keys for player-1 is a non-issue.
However, when playing around with the latest Dolphin build (playing TvsC on the arcade machine) I found these system keys are NOT suppressed whatsoever.
Now this is clearly an issue with the Dolphin code... But you can see the problem...
The JVSPAC using the MAME default keys, its basically only compatible with other Windows apps the properly block (its not as common as one would hope/expect).
No, editing the Global Windows Policy won't fix it.
Even tho you can disable ALL Windows shortcut keys with it... All you are really doing is killing the function of the combo.
Pressing Ctrl+Alt for example will still reveal the boarder around the maximized window (killing any arcade experience in the process).
I can't help but think it would be better NOT to follow MAME by default, just for these two (ie left Ctrl left Alt) keys.
Its way easier for the user to remap two action buttons in MAME, and have proper (Windows) support for everything else.
Last edited by a moderator:
J
jassin000
Well TvsC wasn't that awesome emulated so I just ditched Dolphin all together (I recommend using a cISO Wii with pad-hack GC controllers).
Back to zero issues with properly built MAME64 227.
And yea I do understand I could customize the layout, its a great feature too...
I just felt with so many Windows executables failing to properly block system keys, not using these keys by default might be better.
Keeping it P'nP to MAME tho I understand (that is its primary function).
Cheers to future Mister support, it could be the last barrier preventing me from taking the plug on my own setup (I still kinda feel like Mister isn't ready yet tho, next hardware platform for sure).
Last edited by a moderator:
Weird someone on here T vs C emu was supppsed to be have less input lag than the Wii, much sharper polygons too.
I believe you though. How’s Melee HD play on your viewlix?
That would kick ass..
J
jassin000
I don't think its actually less than, but equal to the input lag present in a real Wii U console.
The reason being Wii U can't use GC controllers, and being a Wii game it can't use Wii U pro controllers either.
Its laggy (and really we are only talking about 8ms so maybe 1 frame?) Wiimote bluetooth+classic controller only on that.
On a real Wii with GC controller ports you can use GC wired pads that have zero lag.
Making a hacked (cIOS) Wii, running the scrubbed/WBFS ISO from USB SSD drive, the absolute best solution (outside of owning the real/actual JVS based arcade hardware).
Well this is something of a catch 22...
Yes you can change the internal resolution to just about whatever you like.
For kicks I did 4k, and yea it looked fucking stunning!
Problem is unless you pre-cache all the shaders, it will take a frame hit when rendering new objects.
So ok pre-cache the entire thing, no problem! Well at 4k you start to need lots of VRAM.
The card inside my emu rig is low profile, low power and low RAM... Despite being a DX12 card, its pathetic 2GB of DDR5 RAM ain't shit.
You know what ripped thru TvsC at 4k? My AMD 3950x+Nvidia 2080 Supra combo!
16 CPU cores with 8GB of GDDR6 running @348.5GT/s Texture Fill Rate you'd fucking hope so.
But no way I can afford to build a emulation rig based around these specs/parts (yet).
Even if I was to upgrade my primary rig to a 3080 TI/Supra (whatever the next clock/RAM bump will be called) I can't fit a full height GFX card (the 2080 Supra) into my rig as is.
Nope I'd also need one of those right angle GPU brackets, and for a three PCI-slot thick card... That still seems like a long shot it will actually fit.
I need to get some updated shots, this is before I mounted the JVSPAC to the frame and wired in a USB2.0 header to the motherboard (to avoid using one of my two precious USB3.0 ports).
My low profile/fanless 1030 is very visible however.
I kinda wish I had a larger m.2 drive, at just 512GB I can't fit the entire MAME 227 set (ROMs+CHDs).
So I do the full ROM set, and cherry-picked CHDs.
Last edited by a moderator:
GuileWinQuote
Enthusiast
Dolphin can have less input lag
here & here
The great thing about Dolphin is that it is so optimized, so you can tweak the settings to work with whatever you have. There are people in the TvC discord that are running on integrated graphics.. (which I obviously don't recommend!) ((also there are people in the discord who can help you get everything up and running!))
also there is a way to generate all of the shaders beforehand
Trust me, i'm in this hobby because of my love for real hardware. But for the case of TvC..I truly believe that emulating on Dolphin is the way to go. Not only cause of ease of use, but HD texture packs, up scaling etc...
And if you don't trust me, you can trust the community that is still playing competitively and running tournaments and have ditched the wii all together.
And if you don't trust that, trust the insanely dedicated Smash Melee community who run 100+ man tournaments on dolphin every week
I wish any other emulator could even come close to Dolphin!
But to go back to the topic, I happily use my JVS-Pac with Dolphin in my NNC
J
jassin000
How are you suppressing Windows system keys like Ctrl+Alt when using the JVSPAC with dolphin?
The latest build of Dolphin I used seems like they forgot to include that flag when building... Do you know of another that works properly?
Thanks I bought this one, but am looking for 1 more.
Would it be possible to expose the outputs on JVS as HID lights? I've been doing stupid things like wiring up a Rhythm Tengoku panel to my Net City and if I had HID lighting I could wire it into DDR or other stupid things
Not sure I follow, you want to toggle GPIO on IO board based on something hid? I presume that would require custom programming on the PC side of things?Would it be possible to expose the outputs on JVS as HID lights? I've been doing stupid things like wiring up a Rhythm Tengoku panel to my Net City and if I had HID lighting I could wire it into DDR or other stupid things
Regarding Mister, I find it such a royal PITA to set up.. I've ordered a J-PAC and and I-PAC so I can verify my Mister setup is actually working as intended with a lot of simultaneous button presses., as right now I have no idea if the issue is at the Mister end of things or the JVS-PAC 2.
Basically on JVS there are output drivers provided which can be used like an inverse button. I am using the 837-14572 Sega board which gives me 20 output drivers. Those link up to the LED power leads on a button. In Rhythm Tengoku whenever the corresponding button is pressed or a button needs lit it flips the output driver.
In the computer world to adapt lighting into games typically what is done is to move the LEDs into the USB HID descriptor as lights and then bind them to a function to make them work. An example of some arduino code for setting up lighting can be seen at https://github.com/mon/Arduino-HID-...opixel-HID-Lighting/Neopixel-HID-Lighting.ino
MoppelTheWhale
Grand Master
I am finally trying try my luck with building a Groovyarcade setup wanted to finally use the JVS PAC 2 I bought in November 2019 for this project (COVID brought all my projects to a halt last year...)
Well, i got Groovyarcade running, the regular usb keyboard is working, but i can't get my control panel to work.
I'm using a Sega I/O in my Blast City, that one gets recognized by the JVS PSAC 2 (at least it looks like it on the OLED) - i also tested the I/O board with my Naomi, thats working as well.
I tried two different micro USB cables from the JVS PAC to the PC, but it doesn't react to button presses or stick movements.
Also, I don't have a SD card inserted atm - maybe that's it?
What am I doing wrong here? Do i need to install an extra driver or something like that?
Thanks for your help
Well, i got Groovyarcade running, the regular usb keyboard is working, but i can't get my control panel to work.
I'm using a Sega I/O in my Blast City, that one gets recognized by the JVS PSAC 2 (at least it looks like it on the OLED) - i also tested the I/O board with my Naomi, thats working as well.
I tried two different micro USB cables from the JVS PAC to the PC, but it doesn't react to button presses or stick movements.
Also, I don't have a SD card inserted atm - maybe that's it?
What am I doing wrong here? Do i need to install an extra driver or something like that?
Thanks for your help
J
jassin000
No... You don't need a SD card to use it (only update the firmware).
I'd say check the USB port over again, maybe something got damaged/bent inside the connector itself?
Funny tho that you should still get the proper LCD display for your IO.
Realistically, rewire the LED's and get somthing from ultimarc
@MoppelTheWhale are the micro usb cables by any chance short onces supplied with a power-bank or similar thing, those often lack the data wires.. Regardless of JVS, once connected to the PC you should see it as a keyboard in windows - if you don't, it's the USB cable.
