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Arikado89

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Hi all,

New owner of blast city here. The cabinet was running perfectly fine for 3 months or so, since I've bought it. It was running two PCBs, KOF 98 and KOF 2002UM. Anyway one night, I had my friend coming over to play some KOF games. After finishing with KOF98 I plugged 2002UM PCB and it was set on 31khz. I turned the cabinet off and change the resolution from game board dip switch back to 15khz and then turned it on again. I heard popping sound coming from inside the cabinet and quickly turned it off. We waited 30 mins and then turned it on again and everything seems fine, the marquee light was on and same with sounds. However, it was playing blind. Here's what I did so far with the monitor:
- took the monitor out
- opened up the PSU and the AMP and tested the capacitors with multimeter( all gave me reads and no zeros).
- Checked the chassis capacitors and HOT( no zeros), except the pins under the flyback most of them were zero.

With my limited experience with CRT TV, I have asked many TV repair shops around. Sadly most of them refused to work on CRT TVs anymore except one. He told me he can help me narrowing down the problem by sending him pics and videos of the chassis board. After doing that, he stated that the flyback is probably the culprit. I ended up ordering Nanao ms-2933 Cap kit and flyback (MSU1FUS11) from eBay. I reached out to the same guy again and asked him if he can recap the chassis and install the flyback since I have no clue on soldering and desoldering , he agreed to do it but after one week since he's extremely busy.

My question here is, do I need to run some tests on the monitor before sending my chassis off to the guy? From what I have read, the tube doesn't get voltage from the chassis but IDK if it is the case or not.

Finally, here is some pics and video of the monitor when turning it on: https://imgur.com/a/kqw6Cai

Sorry for the long post and appreciate any inputs.

Thanks.
 
That tube is no good. Can you see the blue arcing inside the neck? During that video.
 
It does look like it's sparking, which means the tube has cracked.

Unfortunately, it's pretty common.

The chassis model is MS-2931.

EDIT: corrected model number
 
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Tough break, this is worst case scenario. Tough part is, the faulty chassis probably caused the tube to break, so that will have to get fixed or you run the risk of breaking another tube if you source a replacement tube :(
 
That tube is no good. Can you see the blue arcing inside the neck? During that video.
Yes I can see it briefly flashing white. Symptom of high voltage?


nem:​

It does look like it's sparking, which means the tube has cracked.

Unfortunately, it's pretty common.

The chassis model is MS-2930.

The seller told me it has auto-sync MS-2933 chassis and I think I saw it written somewhere near the tube. Gonna double check later.

Anselmo:​

Tough break, this is worst case scenario. Tough part is, the faulty chassis probably caused the tube to break, so that will have to get fixed or you run the risk of breaking another tube if you source a replacement tube :(

Do you suspect any part on the chassis that responsible for the problem? Securing a replacement tube is definitely not easy these days :(

Thank you guys for your inputs!
 
The seller told me it has auto-sync MS-2933 chassis and I think I saw it written somewhere near the tube. Gonna double check later.

Sorry, I mistyped. I meant to write MS-2931.

People swap these chassis all the time, sticker on the tube doesn't really mean anything.
 
UPDATE:

I secured an old Sony Trinitron 29" from my parents house which has two SCART ports. Later on, I immediately made an order of Jamma to SCART PCB from ebay. After putting the parts together I turned it on, and man I got welcomed with vibrant colors picture as seen below in the attachments.

Regarding the original monitor, I left it at electrician's shop who claimed he can swap the chassis with one of his tubes (29" and 27"). I expect to hear from him in few days at which time l'll update this thread.
 

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I received the monitor back yesterday. The tube swap was a success and it fit right into the cabinet like the old one. Now I have to adjust the horizontal and vertical sync and as well as the flyback knob for brightness.
 

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Happy you were able to successfully bring another Blast City back to working condition! Best cabs of all time IMO
 
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