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KaPH33n

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I am in NorCal and can travel wherever, but I just moved out of my SF apt. My cabs are currently in storage near Sac.
 

clam_wattson

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@KaPH33n i had a hell of a time getting my speakers out. I thought I could just remove the center bolt that holds the speaker into the bracket, and slide the speaker modules out, but I could only slide them partway out of the bracket; they were getting caught and I couldn't go any further.

I'm not sure if it's standard, but my cabinet has some adhesive felt sheets stuck inside the shell cavity near the speakers, and I think that was preventing me from removing the speakers. I tried to also fully remove the brackets, but there are some screws that you can't reach near the seam between the front and back shell, so i couldn't get the brackets out either. I ended up removing the back of the cabinet entirely to get my speakers swapped. Royal pain in the ass.

Everyone seems to indicate that this should not be a problem, so I'm wondering if you could elaborate on how you swap your speakers when you have a chance.
 

Derick2k

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Add a sub. I need more bass! These speakers have no body. I regret not cutting those tweeters out when I was in there installing the Aura's.
Im adding a drivers to give the box a bit more low end. In my test I found that a tweeter was needed for my listening preference. But, the one Sega used is too harsh, I ended up covering about half of it dampen it a bit .

Heres a pic of one of the first rough prototypes I made to test stuff out, keeping things to a minimum, reusing the stock housing. But realistically it needs a custom housing, reason why I made one out of acrylic, with better drivers. Only limiting factor is that the stock amp only pushes out 15w per channel, larger/better drivers would probably need a bit more power.

Anywho, I can send some of these to someone to test on their and see how they like them or not :D
IMG_5800.jpg
 

everten

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Everyone seems to indicate that this should not be a problem, so I'm wondering if you could elaborate on how you swap your speakers when you have a chance.
It's not easy. I had to remove the monitor and bend those metal speaker brackets almost 90 degrees to slide the speakers out. I think each speaker has 2 screws holding it to the bracket as well.

I've seen claims of people removing them without taking the monitor out, but I don't see how it is possible. They must be removing the side panels from the cabinet.
 

BlinG

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Everyone seems to indicate that this should not be a problem, so I'm wondering if you could elaborate on how you swap your speakers when you have a chance.
It's not easy. I had to remove the monitor and bend those metal speaker brackets almost 90 degrees to slide the speakers out. I think each speaker has 2 screws holding it to the bracket as well.
I've seen claims of people removing them without taking the monitor out, but I don't see how it is possible. They must be removing the side panels from the cabinet.
I've taken a few out without removing the monitor. You need to bend the metal bracket that holds the speaker in place and it'll come out.
 

everten

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I've taken a few out without removing the monitor. You need to bend the metal bracket that holds the speaker in place and it'll come out.
I'm guessing from the rear through the access panel. I can barely get my arm in there and if I do I can't see what I'm doing. Removing monitor would probably take less time than the time struggling from the back.
 

BlinG

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I've taken a few out without removing the monitor. You need to bend the metal bracket that holds the speaker in place and it'll come out.
I'm guessing from the rear through the access panel. I can barely get my arm in there and if I do I can't see what I'm doing. Removing monitor would probably take less time than the time struggling from the back.
Getting it out is easy, putting it back though...yeah not so much. I have fairly thin arms, so getting it from the back service door isn't impossible for me
 

clam_wattson

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Bending those brackets is a big hard no from me. Thanks for your feedback, all. I'll stick to removing the back panel (if I ever have to do it again). Fatiguing parts to save an hours' time is just not worth it.
 

Derick2k

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If anyone is going to remove their crt / speakers from a blast and can take some measurements with some good quality pics/video I would greatly appreciate it.

Also, are ytou guys looking to replace just the speaker box/drivers to use stock amp or are you guys looking to replace the stock amp? Replacing the stock amp definitely gives you more options as far as drivers to use.
 

RandomRetro

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For me the intent is to pull monitor and was going to just replace the speakers, but open to swapping the amp. Happy to take pictures and measurements. May be a couple weeks, but can do what I can to help. What measurements are you looking for to start @Derick2k?
 

twistedsymphony

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ok, here's another question...

why not build a custom box with 2-way speaker setup with a small tweeter mounted near the "face" and a larger, remote mounted mid-range piped through the original box area?

you could go with a 1.5in round tweeter and a 4.5in round mid-range and if you designed the box and cross-over network right It'd probably sound mint.
 

Derick2k

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ok, here's another question...

why not build a custom box with 2-way speaker setup with a small tweeter mounted near the "face" and a larger, remote mounted mid-range piped through the original box area?

you could go with a 1.5in round tweeter and a 4.5in round mid-range and if you designed the box and cross-over network right It'd probably sound mint.
yup, this is more or less the design I have now, I just need to know how much space I have to work with to be able to tweak/tune the box. Wish i still had one of my blast cabs.
 

arcadeaction

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I also concur that Blast Cities sound much better if a sub woofer is added.

As posted earlier, I did replacement speakers on once Blast City and have compared it to another Blast City with good original speakers running the same games. The sound was virtually identical I thought. Running the same games in a wooden cabinet HS-5 Dynamo with factory speakers has a much more rich sound than the Blast City cabinet speakers.

In general, I am quite patient and willing to put in good hard work to restore games (and I have many), but the Blast City and candy cabs in general can really try your patience with how they are assembled.

As stated before and by others, installing/removing the Blast City speakers is an obnoxious process due to not only the speaker assembly being ridiculous, but having to remove the monitor as well, which can be very tricky if bolt holes from the monitor frame/tube are not at the exact spacing.
 

Scillianaire

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I parted out an initial d third stage a few years ago and deeply regret not keeping the speakers.
 

cr4zymanz0r

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Gah, how the crap do you get the speaker enclosures out? Just got my Blast in yesterday and have been tearing it down partially to clean it and get it inside and down the stairs more easily. Shining a flashlight through the speaker grill I could see the foam is deteriorating on at least one of them so I decided I'd go ahead and take them out while I'm in the middle of all of this and have the monitor out.

First I was just barely able to get the 2 screws removed holding one of the enclosures to the metal bars, but it can't slide up or down anywhere near enough to get it out of there. Next I attempted the screw for each of the metal bars that holds it to the front of the cab, but it's way too close to the speaker enclosure to get a screwdriver dead center on it, so I have to attempt to at an angle which makes it not catch as good, so it just slips. Even tried with an electric drill with a screwdriver attachment and it still just slips. I don't want to attempt anymore without a clear idea of what to do for fear of stripping the screws.

Do you really have to separate the front and back half of the cab to get the freakin' speakers out? :cursing:
 

clam_wattson

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If you don't have a right angle driver that can fit in the crevice and you don't want to bend/destroy the brackets, you'll need to take the back off only. To be completely honest, the only way to fully clean a Blast is to do a complete teardown. Not everyone wants to or cares to do a full clean, but that's how it is.

I strongly recommend using a JIS #2 driver to remove the screws along the shell and at the base. I believe you'll also need a metric wrench to remove the casters. Don't forget to also first take out the PSU.

Just keep in mind, if you take those speakers out and want to put them back in, you'll need to do this all over again. Might want to figure out your strategy for speaker repair strategy now.

Lastly, I would recommend putting the back shell back once you're done before moving the cabinet. It's a lot more rigid when fully assembled, moving it around partly-assembled might flex the fiberglass too much and worsen any cracks that might already be present.
 

mR_CaESaR

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Just ordered 2 pairs of the Aurasound NS2x3-184-4A 2" x 3" Extended Range Driver 4 Ohm that has been recommended on the thread.

I disassembled the blast last night and found the speakers in this state



I ended up ordering 5 speakers as I would like to try and dremel out the sides to see if it'll make it fit better.

Since the speakers are 4 ohm, I imagine you just wire them up exactly the same as the stock speakers?
 
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Derick2k

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Yes, there is a small filter inside for the tweeter. But just wire them the way you see it. The speakers should be connected in series to present an 8ohm load to the amp channel. The tweeter is a bit harsh for my liking but necessary, you can try covering the tweeter about 1/2-3/4 to tone it down a bit if you also find it harsh.
 
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mR_CaESaR

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Thanks. I'll report back when they arrive and when I install.
 

clam_wattson

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I used a really light foam (i think it was spare ESD foam from an Arrow.com order) and it didn't do enough to dampen my tweeters. It's such a pain in the ass to remove the speakers that I think I'll just live with it. One option for me might be to get some tweezers that can fit and allow me to stick another layer in there without dismantling the whole goddamn thing.

It might be worth it for you @mR_CaESaR to run the machine headless with the back still off (but rebuilt speakers installed) to test it all before your final re-assembly. If you have the -001 loom with RCA inputs you could just plug in any old source with the powersupply on and it would work. No need to connect a board. Maybe play a gameplay video from youtube of some games you like. I wish I had thought of that earlier.
 
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