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Building Arcade Cabinet, Technical Thread

Thanks for the help so far.

I mean wiring up the coin counter, that thing that's supposed to increment by one each time you put in a coin, not the coin mech. In 9:50 of the video, it shows the wires for the coin counter, but I'm not sure what to do with the wires. :)

I have my GBS 8200 powered with the +5v of the power supply. That worked fine
As I expected, the MVS 1 slot D buttons didn't work. I think a JNX Atlas with a CPS2 kick harness will solve this. I ordered one. I'll see when it gets here. https://www.jamma-nation-x.com/jammax/store.html

I fit my old LCD computer monitor inside the frame kinda like this guy: View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bbbq00_G-Aw

This is not ideal because it's behind the frame, so it's set back further than it should be. It's getting the job done though. I still gotta figure out how to get it power inside the cab though :)

Does anyone know where to buy one of those coin mechs?
 
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Hey all, I’ll post this in a few places:

38BACC78-596B-45B1-AD07-6B8220BD666E.jpeg

the proto iso harness is done.

here it is installed:
DD1EA20F-B679-4E06-8824-773D1C70F778.jpeg

I managed to order the wrong male pins so I had to pick some more up. Once I get the shipping confirmation from JST I’ll get a pre-order thread. Cost on these is TBD.... still working that out.
 
Thanks to lemony vengeance and some others in the discord, I've wired up the coin counter. It apparently doesn't matter which wire goes to which end of the coin counter.

Next question, I've got an LCD computer monitor that needs a grounded 3 prong plug. I got a 3 prog female plug. I've taken the wires from the 2 prong plug in the cab and wired them to the 3 prong plug. I've added the ground wire and grounded it to this point: https://imgur.com/a/FwqZKsH

I hit the power switch and the monitor powered on and worked. I just want to make sure this is safe from a grounding standpoint. Are there any obvious problems with this approach?
 
dennisfxm said:
Thanks to lemony vengeance and some others in the discord, I've wired up the coin counter. It apparently doesn't matter which wire goes to which end of the coin counter.

Next question, I've got an LCD computer monitor that needs a grounded 3 prong plug. I got a 3 prog female plug. I've taken the wires from the 2 prong plug in the cab and wired them to the 3 prong plug. I've added the ground wire and grounded it to this point: https://imgur.com/a/FwqZKsH

I hit the power switch and the monitor powered on and worked. I just want to make sure this is safe from a grounding standpoint. Are there any obvious problems with this approach?
Click to expand...
i just added that extra ground. First i think about the control panel , but original mini cute doesnt has it. The newest cabinets have the extra groun on their control panel normally. It is just a security ;)
 
Just an FYI on the wiring harness pdf, the colors for the P2 connections don't match. It looks like they were copied from P1 (brown/red/green) and not re-colored to the P2 colors, which should be green/blue/violet.
 
animesuperj said:
Just an FYI on the wiring harness pdf, the colors for the P2 connections don't match. It looks like they were copied from P1 (brown/red/green) and not re-colored to the P2 colors, which should be green/blue/violet.
Click to expand...
Thank you
I will check it
 
dennisfxm said:
Thanks to lemony vengeance and some others in the discord, I've wired up the coin counter. It apparently doesn't matter which wire goes to which end of the coin counter.

Next question, I've got an LCD computer monitor that needs a grounded 3 prong plug. I got a 3 prog female plug. I've taken the wires from the 2 prong plug in the cab and wired them to the 3 prong plug. I've added the ground wire and grounded it to this point: https://imgur.com/a/FwqZKsH

I hit the power switch and the monitor powered on and worked. I just want to make sure this is safe from a grounding standpoint. Are there any obvious problems with this approach?
Click to expand...
Is this discord private?
 
The Mean Well PSU that some received from Cereth, is this a good candidate for any JAMMA cab or is it tailored for the Mini Cute cab?
 
Any tips for applying the decals? I think I'm going to leave them for last but I do need to apply the control panel overlay.
 
Pixel Krisis said:
Any tips for applying the decals? I think I'm going to leave them for last but I do need to apply the control panel overlay.
Click to expand...
This was my experience, and a couple suggestions. Take it with a grain of salt.

I did the hinge method as it's familiar with me on how I've done other art for games. After finishing, I'd say this was one of the more difficult pieces I've done, or at least needing to REALLY pay attention to what you're doing.

These were the steps I did:
  • Trim down extra around art (maybe 2 inches around?)
  • Use painters tape to get art in position, aligned and level
  • Tape bottom 2/3 down around edges to hold in place, so you can fix the top 1/3 in place
    • After kinda winging it on the first side, my 2nd went better. I used the small connection between the A and P as my hinge
  • Peal away the backing on the CA letters and cut away
  • Slowly, using a microfiber cloth, start to wipe up from the A and then C; continually wiping in left/right strokes to avoid air bubbles. Go in small strokes as if you notice a large air bubble you can peal back (VERY carefully) and re-apply without the bubble
  • Once the CA are fixed, go letter by letter pealing the backing away and fixing the letter
  • Once you get to about the O, you can peal the backing away all-together and just holding it while you're wiping left/right fixing the letters down
Biggest thing I can offer -- DO NOT pull on the art. It was REALLY easy to pull a little on this side-art and kink, tear or pull it off center. There isn't a lot holding the art together between the C -> A -> P and to the C. Everything after the second C wasn't bad as there's more material holding it together. If you pull when going from A -> P, you can very easily rip the graphic or start to get it out of level.

Other word of advice I tend to go by, it's not going to be perfect. If you can get it close to perfect, that's better than trying again and again and ruining it.

FYI, this video is pretty close to how I apply the art (I'm sure there are others, this took 5 seconds of googlilng):
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07EH1jlNo0E

Except for the squeegee. I just use the microfiber cloth and go left/right in very small increments. I've done a bunch of art like this and it's turned out fine.
 
I picked up my Mini Cute repro along with a PRas3 this weekend from Cereth. Wonderful time. Very excited and pretty overwhelmed if I'm being honest.

I'm a complete novice when it comes to cabinets So, I'll probably be on here quite a bit the next few weeks. I'll post a photo or two once I have the cabs in the spare bedroom.
 
Anyone getting diagonal banding on their CRT in the mini cute? I have tried 2 different K7000 chassis and multiple game boards.
 
Not yet. I did manage to get my donor tube in the metal frame. Hopefully the contact I had for a chassis still has one available. Months ago, I wasn't sure my donor's neck length would provide the needed clearance for the WG K7000 neck board. Looks like I have the room. Just hope it works.
 

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