What's new
By:
Filters

WTB Candy Cab!!!

Want To Buy
shaeri87 said:
I'm just worried about how I'm going to get it hooked up for fighting games. I guess I can just get it, and worry about that later, but it is possible right?
Click to expand...
All you would need is a "2L12B" panel (that's 2 Levers 12 Buttons) and the CPS2 kick harness that Jassin linked to.

the JAMMA standard only supports up to 3 buttons per player. on CPS2 games like Street Fighter II that means only the top 3 (punch) buttons for each player are normally wired in the cab. So the lower 3 buttons need a separate connector to the game board. This became known as a "kick harness" since in games like Street Fighter II it was used only for the kick buttons.

you could buy that cab and plug in a Street Fighter PCB and play it, but you wouldn't be able to kick. buy a 2L12B panel and 6 more buttons, then the CPS2 kick harness to plug the buttons into the game board and you'll be good to go.

the harness and buyttons will be easy to find but the 2L12B panel might be more tricky.
 
shaeri87 said:
I love the look of the Super Neo 29 like in my photo, because I like the colors
Click to expand...
Even a bland cab can easily be given a splash of color/style with a nice button job.
This is my Neo/CPS color scheme (white ball top, white start, white rim, Neo-Geo classic plunger colors over black/gray/white) on my Vewlix...
Or as my buddy sarcastically calls it "taste the rainbow" haha. :P

uVwl7uf.jpg
 
That Aero City is a great deal if you can get it, as an alternative to modifying the current control panel or trying to locate a fairly hard to find 6 button panel for it, I would think it would be fairly easy in California (given it's the home of the movie studios) to find a local shop who could cut a new blank panel for you and a print shop to print you a new overlay should be very reasonably priced :)
 
I'm 99.9% sure Jasen sells reproduction panels for Aero's, both blank (drill your own holes) or pre-drilled (SF2 layout).
 
Havibg owned most of the candy in the list, the biggest issue with some of the cabs mentioned is getting spare parts - taito cabs are especially bad for sourcing parts for.

LOPTS for some of the Toshiba chassis are NLA, almost all the spares for Egret 2/3 & AWSD are NLA, windy spares are NLA & now sega have discontinued most of the sega naomi spares.

Blastcity's get damaged easily and are hard to touch up.

If I was in the market for candy my shortlist would be sega Aero city, Astro city, new net city (trisync) jaleco pony, mvs-4U - all quite affordable. And if you can find one a Taito E29.

Out of all the cabs I've had/sold I only regret selling the windy 2 and jaleco pony.

What I found is old games look better on a 25" screen than they do on a 29". Modern games are fine on 25" & 29". Some trisync monitors are crap at 15Khz stuff (AWSD for one).
 
twistedsymphony: Thank you for that info! That will definitely help me, if I am able to get that Aero City one! I am very appreciative of everyone who is teaching me the lingo and the anatomy of these machines. Thank you for sending the link to those panels too!

jassin000: Very nice, I love the rainbow buttons! Totally agree that the buttons can really spruce up a bland cab!

xodaraP: I am trying to get the guy to accept my offer! Since I was told to RUN and not WALK to get it, haha. But he's so close, and I have means to pick it up myself, so maybe that will persuade him to go with me. Interesting about getting a black panel cut, never thought of that, and yeah your'e probably right. Thanks for the idea!
 
jassin00: Oh really! Nice! I love tiny! That makes me want that one even more then! It seems the guy has multiple offers already, I'm not sure what I can say to get him to take mine! Not like I'm gonna be like, okay, I'll give you $1000 bucks... if he wanted to go to bid, he should have put it on e-Bay, right?
 
jugu said:
steel and are heavy as f*ck and don't have wheels to roll them away
Click to expand...
Hey I didn't say anything about actually lifting the cab into a hatchback, only that it would fit inside one.

I don't own CRT cabs, this is just one (weight) of the many reasons why.
 
Yeah I know I wouldn't actually be able to physically pick it up myself, I just mean, I have someone who can come with me, that has a truck. The guy is saying that he has a buyer who is willing to come tonight to get it... the guy that I'm having come with me isn't available tonight. He said the buyer is going to pay $500 for it. He also mentioned that it needs a cap job. What is that? He said he know someone who can do it for $50-$60 bucks, but does that mean I have to lug the thing somewhere again to have someone do the cap job?
 
shaeri87 said:
Yeah I know I wouldn't actually be able to physically pick it up myself, I just mean, I have someone who can come with me, that has a truck. The guy is saying that he has a buyer who is willing to come tonight to get it... the guy that I'm having come with me isn't available tonight. He said the buyer is going to pay $500 for it. He also mentioned that it needs a cap job. What is that? He said he know someone who can do it for $50-$60 bucks, but does that mean I have to lug the thing somewhere again to have someone do the cap job?
Click to expand...
The cap job, refers to capacitors being replaced on the chassis of the monitor, this is typically to fix brightness/color/geometry issues with the monitor. Some arcade technicians will come to you and do the repair, most will have you remove the chassis and either send it to them or drop it off for repair. Then you have to reinstall it. It can be a very dangerous procedure, especially for a newbie.
 
muckyfingers: Thank you for explaining that to me. I see, so for all those that know the situation, should I still be RUNNING to the seller and paying him more than $500 to beat the current buyer out? I am totally fine with paying more, but I want to know if everyone thinks I SHOULD pay more for that particular cab?
 
shaeri87 said:
muckyfingers: Thank you for explaining that to me. I see, so for all those that know the situation, should I still be RUNNING to the seller and paying him more than $500 to beat the current buyer out? I am totally fine with paying more, but I want to know if everyone thinks I SHOULD pay more for that particular cab?
Click to expand...
It really depends on the condition of the machine overall, maybe the person is just really picky when it comes to picture quality. Maybe it has burn in (meaning letters or pictures from another game literally burned into the monitor and can be seen on white screens) and is trying to pass it off as a capacitor issue. I'm sure most of us would jump on the cab, but that's because we can either fix the issue ourselves (half the fun of buying cabs) or know someone who can. It's hard to give the green light to someone new without seeing it in person, especially when the seller puts up a "cap job needed" disclaimer.
 
I just noticed the youtube link in the ad, if it's the same cab/monitor, it looks good to me. Again, ask about burn in or any quirks that might need repair, other than that go for it and good luck.
 
shaeri87 said:
muckyfingers: Thank you for explaining that to me. I see, so for all those that know the situation, should I still be RUNNING to the seller and paying him more than $500 to beat the current buyer out? I am totally fine with paying more, but I want to know if everyone thinks I SHOULD pay more for that particular cab?
Click to expand...
Not if it needs a cap kit. IMO 500$ is the limit for a Aero cab with known monitor issues.
jassin000 said:
I don't own CRT cabs, this is just one (weight) of the many reasons why.
Click to expand...
BTW you just discovered reason two (constant potentially life threatening maintenance) why I don't own CRT based cabs. X/
 
muckyfingers: Thank you for your input. He said this when I asked him if the monitor currently works despite the need for a cap job: "Yep once the monitor warms up its A-OK but this will degrade over time. Monitors usually require a cap replacement every five years or so because they eventually bulge and leak. I just want to give you all the facts, dont want you to have any gotchas." So I guess he's just saying that in order for the monitor to be in the best condition, it needs the cap job. I guess I just don't know enough to know if this is something I should jump on. The price is not an issue, but according to jugu they are super heavy, and don't have wheels, so it's going to be hard to get it into the truck without a ramp.

I believe that it is the one in the youtube video.
 
The fact the seller is being honest, explaining the issue in a way you can understand as someone who doesn't own other cabs and it's still currently working but needs a monitor refurb (which isn't uncommon on equipment that is pushing 30 years old)

I'd at least go and have a look at it with money in my pocket to make a deal on the spot if it is indeed as described, otherwise you can walk away. If you can find someone who knows a bit more and is happy to join you, even better

And as per the weight - most candy cabs weigh approximately 100-150kg (200-300lb) so you will need help
 
Go check out some youtube videos on CRT chassis removal, tube discharging, neckboard swapping...
If you still think you can do it, after seeing it being done, offer the 500$ cash.

A few guys still work on these chassis, but as mentioned above they often require you to remove it and ship it to them.
Then when you receive the repair, you will need to put it back in yourself.

Keep in mind the anode cap (looks like a suction cup on the back of the tube) can hold 10,000volts even when its been unplugged for weeks.
This could potentially stop the heart of a full grown adult male, WORK SAFE!
blanka_ernest.gif
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top