Aurich: Thank you very much for your input. Now I'm kind of thinking I should wait, if you think I can get a better cab for fighting that's already equipped with a 6 button setup, maybe for the same price even or a little more, but that does not need all the work to fix the monitor, and kick harness, more buttons, etc, etc. Thank you!
- Thread starter shaeri87
- Start date
Want To Buy
I don't know what your budget is, but generally speaking a good option for a basic 6 button candy is going to run you between $500-1000, more likely to the higher end. That Aero City was underpriced for the market, hence the bidding war stuff, you're not going to see anything that cheap.
There's no reason to spend north of that $1000, you're getting ripped off unless it's part of a package, or has been really nicely restored or something.
My advice is to stick with Sega cabs if you can. They're less exotic, which means parts are easier to find. The workhorse is the Astro City, they're common but also get snatched up on the quick side. Easier to find are Blast Cities right now, but I'm personally a little iffy on their reliability.
Aurich: Interesting, okay. What about New Net City, do you know anything about that? I was told it's JVS, not JAMMA, and you need something special to play JAMMA games. I guess I'm just wondering what a good price is for a Sega cab is in general, but you say don't spend more than $1000 so that's good to know.
xodaraP
Legendary
JVS stands for JAMMA Video Standard - think of it as JAMMA 20.0'm
It's the next generation of wiring for new arcade cabinets and boards, it uses RS-485 connectors for inputs (same connectors as USB but with different instructions) and VGA for connecting to the monitor (VGA supports higher resolution)
A lot of the time these cabinets came with a JAMMA to JVS adapter so you can connect JAMMA boards into the cabinet and these can be bought separately if it's not included.
It all depends on whether you want the higher resolution monitor for newer games. If not then the JVS adapters can potentially add input delay over a directly connected JAMMA wiring setup and you'll be paying a premium for features you may not use.
You do however also gain the ability to use things like invzim's rather awesome JVS-PAC and Mitsurugi-W's S-JIHP so you can connect a PC to your cabinet for MAME
It's the next generation of wiring for new arcade cabinets and boards, it uses RS-485 connectors for inputs (same connectors as USB but with different instructions) and VGA for connecting to the monitor (VGA supports higher resolution)
A lot of the time these cabinets came with a JAMMA to JVS adapter so you can connect JAMMA boards into the cabinet and these can be bought separately if it's not included.
It all depends on whether you want the higher resolution monitor for newer games. If not then the JVS adapters can potentially add input delay over a directly connected JAMMA wiring setup and you'll be paying a premium for features you may not use.
You do however also gain the ability to use things like invzim's rather awesome JVS-PAC and Mitsurugi-W's S-JIHP so you can connect a PC to your cabinet for MAME
So here's the divide that's good to understand: 15khz vs 31khz monitors. Think of it as low rez vs high rez.
Jamma games are generally low rez. All those CPS2 games you're thinking about etc. They all run at 15khz. Astro Cities are 15khz cabs (well some have a medium rez option, ignore that, it's not relevant to much).
New Net City has what's called a tri-sync monitor, basically it can run low rez and high rez. That Blast City I mentioned is the same deal. You're gonna get mixed opinions on running low rez games on them. It works just fine, some people don't like the look, it's a little 'over sharp' and the scanlines are very prominent.
Then there's JVS vs Jamma. If the cab doesn't have Jamma hookups already it's a solvable problem for sure.
I personally would only use a New Net City and the like for running high rez games, such as Naomi. But if you can find one and it's working and doesn't have issues and the price is right there's no reason why you can't run CPS2 in it, possibly needing an adapter.
bradtemple87
Student
Blast city with the JVS ( 600-7143-001 , aka 001 ) loom all day 
I run lots of stuff in one machine as I mentioned before, and ALL monitors will need some adjustments regardless of "condition". Expect to work on your machine and learn in the process. The JVS loom has a stereo audio option with a standard rca plug for cps2 or other compatible boards. There are plenty of people in the scene that make the kick harness, which easily connects on a board mounted inside the access door. My cab has been a complete workhorse since I first made the purchase. All of the pots and dip switches for monitor adjustments are on a small board inside the control panel for easy access.
http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Sega_Blast_City_Wiring_Guide
I run lots of stuff in one machine as I mentioned before, and ALL monitors will need some adjustments regardless of "condition". Expect to work on your machine and learn in the process. The JVS loom has a stereo audio option with a standard rca plug for cps2 or other compatible boards. There are plenty of people in the scene that make the kick harness, which easily connects on a board mounted inside the access door. My cab has been a complete workhorse since I first made the purchase. All of the pots and dip switches for monitor adjustments are on a small board inside the control panel for easy access.
http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Sega_Blast_City_Wiring_Guide
So true. These are old machines, running old tech. Things are going to need work, it kinda comes with the territory. I've got to pull the monitor on my Neo Candy 29 and figure out why the vertical adjustment is out of whack myself.
They're commercial machines, meant to be played, don't be scared of them. But they're gonna need tuning too.
Hey everyone, need help ASAP! Anyone know anything about NAMCO Cyber Leads?? Someone has one near me but it's not in good shape at all, and does not have the power cord... need to know details about how hard it's going to be to find the cord, and fix it up, etc etc. Thank you!!!
J
jassin000
I don't personally like the Cybers at all... And this is a JVS cab no?
So it would need adapters or a wire make-over to play JAMMA (like CPS2 Multi).
So it would need adapters or a wire make-over to play JAMMA (like CPS2 Multi).
They came with a factory JVS > JAMMA converter, so assuming it's still in there it's not a problem.
No power cord in and of itself isn't a big deal, someone probably cut it off and you just need to add a new one, but it means you can't test a damn thing until you get it home and start working on it, so who knows what else you'll find.
I'd pass on anything like this, you don't have the experience to evaluate and fix issues. And Cyberleads fall under the 'funky cab' category of being obscure and impossible to find parts for.
Shaeri, what's your budget? I gave you a range, does hitting the upper end of it work for you? I can make a couple calls, see if I can hook you up with something more reliable.
Hi Everyone! The guy who found this Cyber Lead basically gave it to us for free, because he had no idea what to do with it, he found it in one of those storage auctions. We've cleaned it up, and taken a look inside. Here are some photos. We are trying to turn it on, by using the cord from our computer monitor, but it did not turn on. Can anyone help us figure out how to troubleshoot this? Thank you!
Attachments
Links to more photos (too big to put in reply body)
https://goo.gl/photos/pFCbopJQibC7ZoDy6
https://goo.gl/photos/mcZFP5C6i5dkyz528
https://goo.gl/photos/C4URo1qUrvo8TkjX8
https://goo.gl/photos/pFCbopJQibC7ZoDy6
https://goo.gl/photos/mcZFP5C6i5dkyz528
https://goo.gl/photos/C4URo1qUrvo8TkjX8
xodaraP
Legendary
I've actually got a Cyber Lead myself 
what you have yourself there is something exceedingly rare. And the Cyber Lead cabs aren't common to begin with.
That's a Cyber Lead 2 with the memory card readers on the front. It's also in rather good condition with very little yellowing of the plastic (better than mine)
That looks like a CPS1 boardset, probably SF2 CE, even better!
The fact you got that for almost nothing is staggering, nice pickup!
Anyway - some information I can give you straight away:
The cyber lead comes standard as a JVS cabinet, yours has been rewired to JAMMA, that's a common modification and makes life easier anyway unless you really want to play Namco System 11/12 games that can use the funky marquee on top and make it do different things, or a NAOMI system without having to use the Capcom or Sega adapter
That is the original Namco power supply, it's a good power supply and will even power a NAOMI setup with a DIMM so nothing wrong there.
The monitor on that looks good too, if it's original it's a Nanao MS9-29 dual res monitor and it's damn good. It may need a refurbish but it's a very easy to refurb monitor and there's plenty of people who can do that. The same monitor is used on Daytona, Sega Rally, Astro City and other Sega cabs.
First steps:
Measure the power pins on the JAMMA connector to see if you're getting the correct amount of power to the board and that the power supply is functioning correctly.
Can you hear the coil noise from the monitor starting up? Can you hear any sounds from the game that's in it?
The volume control is behind the control panel, you can remove the control panel by unlocking it with the key on the bottom then use the joysticks to pull the control panel forward and out, then lift it up and you should see the volume control, original I/O board if it's there and the monitor adjustment settings.
what you have yourself there is something exceedingly rare. And the Cyber Lead cabs aren't common to begin with.That's a Cyber Lead 2 with the memory card readers on the front. It's also in rather good condition with very little yellowing of the plastic (better than mine)
That looks like a CPS1 boardset, probably SF2 CE, even better!
The fact you got that for almost nothing is staggering, nice pickup!
Anyway - some information I can give you straight away:
The cyber lead comes standard as a JVS cabinet, yours has been rewired to JAMMA, that's a common modification and makes life easier anyway unless you really want to play Namco System 11/12 games that can use the funky marquee on top and make it do different things, or a NAOMI system without having to use the Capcom or Sega adapter
That is the original Namco power supply, it's a good power supply and will even power a NAOMI setup with a DIMM so nothing wrong there.
The monitor on that looks good too, if it's original it's a Nanao MS9-29 dual res monitor and it's damn good. It may need a refurbish but it's a very easy to refurb monitor and there's plenty of people who can do that. The same monitor is used on Daytona, Sega Rally, Astro City and other Sega cabs.
First steps:
Measure the power pins on the JAMMA connector to see if you're getting the correct amount of power to the board and that the power supply is functioning correctly.
Can you hear the coil noise from the monitor starting up? Can you hear any sounds from the game that's in it?
The volume control is behind the control panel, you can remove the control panel by unlocking it with the key on the bottom then use the joysticks to pull the control panel forward and out, then lift it up and you should see the volume control, original I/O board if it's there and the monitor adjustment settings.
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xodaraP: Thank you, really appreciate your input. No we do not have the keys, but we were able to get it open because one of the locks was broken. Did you see the photos of the inside? Do you know how to troubleshoot it, because we used our monitor power cord to plug it in, but nothing happened. Where is the power supply? Also, do you know how to unlock the rest of it (like the button panel) without the key? Thank you!!!
xodaraP
Legendary
It's been converted to JAMMA so the impossible to find parts for problem becomes less of an issue, since all the plastics are in great condition. The I/O boards are the impossible to find bits, probably why it was converted to JAMMA in the first place.
It runs a very standard monitor where parts are easy to source and while the power supply is hard to come by, it's not likely to be an issue.
The control panel is impossible to find an original for, but again I'm sure there would be a local shop in SoCal who could manufacture another one from sheet metal if the one that is currently on there was offered up to copy from.
I'd ask around local car body shops (particularly restoration shops) to see if they have the equipment to cut something or who they use when they need something (think rust repair)
xodaraP: Thank you for all that info. We were able to take off the back to get better access and see what's going on back there. Photos below. When we plugged it in using the monitor cord, nothing happened, no sound at all. The first link is what the power cord area looks like from inside.
https://goo.gl/photos/xvHpevWFoi4YPpgq9
https://goo.gl/photos/aak8YtB4AFTLxe7TA
https://goo.gl/photos/jCXqh3iwhzUvnsHn6
https://goo.gl/photos/WaL4XfFSsVy9rQJr8
https://goo.gl/photos/TFasgHZpdqioV1tL9
https://goo.gl/photos/dUuRdoKBgbb5Wu1L9
https://goo.gl/photos/3Pdzv4XNDVusRFMg7 --> not sure if this needs to be plugged into anywhere near the power supply
Thank you!
https://goo.gl/photos/xvHpevWFoi4YPpgq9
https://goo.gl/photos/aak8YtB4AFTLxe7TA
https://goo.gl/photos/jCXqh3iwhzUvnsHn6
https://goo.gl/photos/WaL4XfFSsVy9rQJr8
https://goo.gl/photos/TFasgHZpdqioV1tL9
https://goo.gl/photos/dUuRdoKBgbb5Wu1L9
https://goo.gl/photos/3Pdzv4XNDVusRFMg7 --> not sure if this needs to be plugged into anywhere near the power supply
Thank you!
xodaraP
Legendary
The power supply is the silver box to the right of the game board, with the power switch and degauss button on it (the big red button on the power supply)
The first thing you need to do is see if any power is getting to the edge connector (the blue connector plugged into the Street Fighter board) - you need a multimeter and to very carefully measure the +5v pins (the cabinet itself can be used as a ground to make life easier)
Then if you are, you need to figure out if the monitor is powering on, generally with CRT displays you can hear a bit of noise as it starts up. If you are willing to take off the panel on the back where the rear of the monitor is, you can also look to see if you're getting glow on the neck of the monitor tube.
If you're getting nothing on the monitor, is the game playing blind, can you hear any sounds? Check that attract mode sounds are turned on (it's one of the dip switches on the CPS1 main board, right at the front of the board, I'll update the post with which one)
As for removing the control panel without the keys there are a couple of options, you can drill out the locks (and try not to destroy the tangs as these are impossible to find) or you can remove the whole thingI think using a wrench, I've not tried it so I'd have to have a look as to how to achieve that side of it. Have you tried to remove the control panel to see if it's already unlocked?
Well they've got the back panel off so checking for neck glow on the monitor isn't an issue. Sounds like they aren't getting any power. It might literally be a fuse. lol
Troubleshooting this should be pretty easy for someone even with a little bit of experience. I would say you need to pick up a multimeter now since you are now in the arcade hobby. You will use it a lot.
Troubleshooting this should be pretty easy for someone even with a little bit of experience. I would say you need to pick up a multimeter now since you are now in the arcade hobby. You will use it a lot.
xodaraP
Legendary
Someone with a better eye for it than me needs to look at the third picture, I think the neck on the tube is cracked. There's also an alarming burnt looking patch on the neck board. And I don't believe the little red and black plug is anything for the power supply side of things, that looks like the connector for power to the I/O board (and probably memory card reader in this version of the cabinet) that you probably no longer have.
Do not touch ANYTHING to do with the power supply yourself by the way. If you suspect anything wrong with the way the power supply is connected up other than a blown fuse (which you can remove yourself with the little panel on the back of the cabinet) get an electrician to take a look at it (this is a legal requirement in Australia, I'm not sure if that's the case in the US/California, but even if it's not a requirement, don't touch it yourself and find someone who knows what they're doing)
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