CPS1 Multi. Official Thread

[Derick2k]

While I'm sure she won't win 1st prize at the beauity contest, here is my custom SF2CE case adapted (spacers + PCB feet) to fit the multi.

You know thats not bad at all, if you could get some smoked/black acrylic pieces cut to fit in between/interconnect things it could be pretty sweet.

 

[jassin000]

if you could get some smoked/black acrylic pieces cut to fit in between/interconnect things it could be pretty sweet.

Yea, you know if I got a plexi base plate adapter (to shift the standoffs like I'm doing with the PCB feet) and some side plates like you mentioned it wouldn't be half bad.

Remote DIPs work like a dream BTW.
Big thanks to whomever recommended testing the install using a games (I used SF2CE) test menu.

 

[ramosribeiro2000]

can i solder these two wires on opposite sides of the boards so that they are hidden improving the appearance of the multi?

 

[ekorz]

can i solder these two wires on opposite sides of the boards so that they are hidden improving the appearance of the multi?

Yes. But keep in mind if you solder wires directly they won’t be easily removable.

I removed the header entirely, and put a new right-angle header on the reverse side. but you could also remove the existing one and just install it on the other side. Keep in mind this is the kind of thing that probably voids the warranty though!

 

[dos]

Remote DIPs work like a dream BTW.

I don't actually have my CPS1 out right now to test but I'm wondering, is the "on" printed on the switch body the actual on position? as in, if you hold the board upside down you're looking at the correct orientation for on/off?

 

[Mitsurugi-w]

I got mine and it's more crooked than that. Also I'm not sure why the decision was made to have the dip banks "upside down" relative to the printing on the board. Minor stuff though. I think the fact that it's not through hole is a good thing though, kinda makes a case not necessary because you're not going to short the reverse side on anything

EDIT: Are these reversed only in that they go from right to left or is on off and off on relative to the printing on the switches? Basically, are they all "off" or all "on" when they are shipped?

First two sheets did have some crooked dips. The solder paste was starting to dry out and it wouldn't build up as thick as I wanted on the stencil. So I didn't get as much solder paste as I wanted so they didn't center themselves during baking like they would normally with more paste. I did manually straighten some out. New solder paste is in the mail. Future batches won't have the issue. To be honest I wasn't expecting these to be put in cases so the crooked ones didn't strike me as being a problem.

I chose smd so I can assemble 10 at a time.

The reason why the dips seem reversed is because when I tested the last proto a few weeks ago I had the dips soldered the other way and the dip numbers were reversed. For example 1 was 8, 2 was 7. So instead of wasting even more weeks by completely reversing the routing and ordering protos and testing again, I decided to place the numbering on the pcb (which was not present on the proto) and just reverse the dips when assembling so that while maybe not pleasing to someone with mild ocd (like me) it does function properly and better yet is in your hands now. I might re-route in the future but it's not high priority right now.

As for dips being on or off. Routing doesn't affect that. On the dip itself it is labeled as on. The dips ship off. I test each switch by turning it on and off again. So the dips should be Off when you receive them.

 

[dos]

Awesome, thanks for clearing it up. The mild crookedness is not a problem at all to me. I think I'll use mine "upside down" (relative to the silkscreen), so that the only thing really reversed is the ABC order

 

[jassin000]

I think I'll use mine "upside down" (relative to the silkscreen)

I just look at the test menu anyway (unless the game hasn't got a DIP test/a few don't).
Don't even look at the switches I'm flipping on the actual board (only the monitor).

 

[Mitsurugi-w]

I thought about reversing ALL silkscreening but then A, B, and C would still be backwards and annoying. Lol.

 

[dos]

I thought about reversing ALL silkscreening but then A, B, and C would still be backwards and annoying. Lol.

That would have been preferable to me personally, but I think I just find the reversal of the 1-8 order and up being off/down being on more OCD triggering. either way, not a huge deal. Though if you do make a revision where nothing at all is reversed I will gladly double dip.

 

[jassin000]

The header on the solder PCB isn't bad, but once the crimped cable is plugged in you really need a tall spacer/foot/standoff.

 

[Kujako]

While I'm sure she won't win 1st prize at the beauity contest, here is my custom SF2CE case adapted (spacers + PCB feet) to fit the multi.

Better than my single sheet of plastic to mount the lcd. Going to need to figure out a case at some point. Kind of hoping someone else does it and I can just throw money at them.

 

[Wraith]

The header on the solder PCB isn't bad, but once the crimped cable is plugged in you really need a tall spacer/foot/standoff.

Can you post what you used for this?

 

[jassin000]

@Wraith did already (previous page) I used PCB feet in ADDITION to the PCB standoffs that are a part of my metal case.
This gave me enough height to clear the remote DIPs header/cable, however it also shifted the entire stack upwards...
Requiring even more distance to the top of my custom case (aka longer spacers).

I really hope we get some kind of printed/plexi or metal whatever case soon.
I can live with what I've put together, but its very hacky and you know how I love to show off sexy looking systems.

Spoiler: Sex

 

[Gamesmonkey]

Mod time...

Sandwiched the jumper cables between the A and Multi.
Used a small 3 pin Molex type conector and moved it to the underside of the Multi.
Thanks must go to RealMFnG for the pin locations.

 

[ramosribeiro2000]

work done

 

[Beachzboyz]

With additional add-on from mitsurugi-w, the 3rd and 4th player with cps 2 kick harness, extension cables and remote dip setting is very useful.
All set for 4 players slam masters battle, only left is to find a spinner for forgotten world and a case...

For slam master 3rd and 4th player C button need to solder a additional wire to enable it if using mitsurugi 3rd and 4th player add-on, see photos)

 

[Jorel81]

I've been playing so much UN Squadron / Area 88 that I totally can fly a real jet fighter now. Like I'm seriously positive that I'm a bad ass jet pilot in real life.

Also, I never knew the Japanese version had a bonus stage where you shoot down what appears to be a commercial jetliner....which I think is a war crime....

Anyway, still loving my CP! Multi! Thanks again, Darksoft!

 

[Jorel81]

While I'm sure she won't win 1st prize at the beauity contest, here is my custom SF2CE case adapted (spacers + PCB feet) to fit the multi.

Just out of curiosity, are you taking the analogue stereo audio outputs and condensing them down to one mono channel?

 

[imbord3rlin3]

Just out of curiosity, are you taking the analogue stereo audio outputs and condensing them down to one mono channel?

no tyhats a 3.5mm headhone jack. still stereo

 

[Ysi]

Following up on the fingerboard escaping. Couldn't find any bolts in the 1/16th inch range, so used some cotter pins. One hole got away from me a bit and is at a wonky angle, but no shorts or other issues. I't not going anywhere now.

Great idea, i did same, very easy to drill and cotter pin lock firmely the fingerboard.

 

[Jorel81]

no tyhats a 3.5mm headhone jack. still stereo

Yeah figured...just checking.