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CPS1 Multi. Official Thread

mdtt77 said:
Can you tell the size of the 4 side parts that hold the upper and lower acrylics?

I'm finally going to ask an acquaintance ^^; please!!
ㅜㅜ
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Sorry I’m not sure what you are looking for, the corner pieces actually hold the pieces of acrylic in place
 
APDWaldo6 said:
Sorry I’m not sure what you are looking for, the corner pieces actually hold the pieces of acrylic in place
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D16210A4-B683-4879-8C5A-5D216099245B.jpeg.jpg

guess I asked a strange question ㅠㅜ

I tried to ask the size of parts like yellow and blue blocks!!^^
 
Been a few weeks since I've posted or kept up with this thread cause I've been busy playing games on my CPS1 Multi. Like saving princesses and galaxies and blowing stuff up with lasers. I played a lot of Street Fighter 2 Turbo today and I know for a fact I'm ready for UFC now. Anyway, anybody know if there are any cases for the CP1 Multi coming soon that will be for sale?

Thanks and sorry if it's already being discussed here or elsewhere. Brain cells dead, too much video games.

Thanks!
 
Jorel81 said:
Been a few weeks since I've posted or kept up with this thread cause I've been busy playing games on my CPS1 Multi. Like saving princesses and galaxies and blowing stuff up with lasers. I played a lot of Street Fighter 2 Turbo today and I know for a fact I'm ready for UFC now. Anyway, anybody know if there are any cases for the CP1 Multi coming soon that will be for sale?

Thanks and sorry if it's already being discussed here or elsewhere. Brain cells dead, too much video games.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

There are a few that I have seen. The one I am tracking the most is the upcoming CPS1 case from JasenHicks.

https://jasenscustomsarchive.com/product/capcom-cps1-arcade-pcb-case/

Matt
 
The initial decision of which dip switch support to buy from mitsurugi, the remote extension seemed like the most logical one, it wasn’t obvious that the bottom plug would stick out so much….really don’t feel like unsoldering it and buying the filter board one, it took a lot of solder to get the remote extension in place and I rather like being able to use it like the game switcher…I guess if I have to I will….it definitely needs a case as I am not a cab user…
 
Oh I see, it does have the option for the remote dip switch, just not really the extension. I havent actually installed mine yet, as I am waiting for a case to become available, but yeah jeez...I'm not sure now. Maybe I should look into the fingerboard mounted option then instead.
 
Sure do dig my Hurist CP2 case. I like it cause it has video games in it. Many games with explosions and lasers. Im a fan of that kind of stuff, not sure if I’ve mentioned that here.
 
Jorel81 said:
At this point I’d be stoked with some plexi just to keep the dust off it.
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I adapter my lions3 CPS Plexi to fit the multi.

It looks ok and offers a level of protection.

Hopefully not my final solution but I won't be getting Jasen's case. I like the dip extension too much to get rid of it.
 
GeorgeSpinner said:
I adapter my lions3 CPS Plexi to fit the multi.

It looks ok and offers a level of protection.

Hopefully not my final solution but I won't be getting Jasen's case. I like the dip extension too much to get rid of it.
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This is what I'm leaning towards as well, at least for the time being. What modifications did the Lions3 plexiglass need?
 
Kujako said:
This is what I'm leaning towards as well, at least for the time being. What modifications did the Lions3 plexiglass need?
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The standoffs are what needs modification. They are all too short because of the filter board. The pins on the back of the filter board are perfectly (imperfectly?) lined up with the Plexi and don't allow you to properly connect the filter board to the multi.

The DarkSoft multi also does not have exposed holes where they would be, on a standard b board, or some holes are just missing.
The connectors used on the bottom of the multi extend out and cover the holes.

There's also an issue with spacing and fitment of the standoffs. I had to grind down one side of the standoffs that go furthest from the JAMMA edge connector so that they would fit.

Because some holes are missing, or space is just too tight, some standoffs had to be left out.

I had to snip the edges of the connectors on the bottom of the multi to expose the holes that were covered. I had to do the same thing on the lydz multi. But the lydz multi has the rest of the holes that a standard b board would have.

I actually had 2 lions3 CPS sets. I glued some of the small standoffs from the other set to the large standoffs to get the extra clearance I needed for the filter board.

it was not easy but I rigged it up ok. It has some protection and still looks pretty good.
 
GeorgeSpinner said:
The standoffs are what needs modification. They are all too short because of the filter board. The pins on the back of the filter board are perfectly (imperfectly?) lined up with the Plexi and don't allow you to properly connect the filter board to the multi.
Click to expand...

I always use nylon or brass standoffs, not really a fan of the 3D printed ones Lions3 provides.
 
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