- Thread starter Darksoft
- Start date
J
jassin000
@MostroVeneno looks like a typo 
So need this remote dip board. best solution thus far!
Totally agree on CPS1.X Multi since it covers CPS1, CPS1.5 and CPS Changers games, etc...CPS1.x Multi
Looks great @Mitsurugi-w remote PCB is a little big but I think the community should be able to mod up the LCD case to contain this as well.
Could you perhaps get the board measurements over to @APDWaldo6 so he could start working on it?
JohnRambo'sKnife
Champion
Dips!
That was the proto. Version I have here is smaller.CPS1.x Multi
Looks great @Mitsurugi-w remote PCB is a little big but I think the community should be able to mod up the LCD case to contain this as well.
Could you perhaps get the board measurements over to @APDWaldo6 so he could start working on it?
Mic drop! /discussion.
MostroVeneno
Grand Master
MostroVeneno
Grand Master
If you intend to test all games I suggest you do.
Not yet. It will eventually.
Maybe it is because the PCB is different in the bootlegs, but I am disappointed that KORYU(Xiang Long, Chinese bootleg), which I most wanted to play with in the bootleg series, does not work properly.
What's special about this bootleg that makes it stand above the other variants? Genuinely curious!
I believe it was on bootleg hardware rather than original capcom hardware.
The dual xtal doesn’t have space for extra headers unless @Derick2k wants to figure out where there’s room.
We have spots for dash and reset but qsound is a pin that’s not connected to anything. I don’t like soldering to a chip leg so I added one jumper to another via where there isn’t anything connected, and put a pin header on the other side of that. Here’s the one remaining wire.
The dual xtal doesn’t have space for extra headers unless @Derick2k wants to figure out where there’s room.
We have spots for dash and reset but qsound is a pin that’s not connected to anything. I don’t like soldering to a chip leg so I added one jumper to another via where there isn’t anything connected, and put a pin header on the other side of that. Here’s the one remaining wire.
This is the only way i can fit a header, you gotta appreciate how small a space we are working with
So you have to solder the reset and qsound points on the A board to the solder pads on the left then you cna use a 3pin cable to the multi.
I was trying to fir a 5 pin header but it is tight. Ill tinker with it a bit and see if the design changes/works out.
I also had to eliminate pin one so this board will be soldered only with the 3 necessarry pins, instead of the 4. I made hole bigger to fit standard pin headers, but I suggestr the use of machine pins, Im not sure if the througholes for the original crystals are large enough for regular pins, if they are then thats awesom and use regular pins then.
Nice work! I'll do the same.The dual xtal doesn’t have space for extra headers unless @Derick2k wants to figure out where there’s room.
We have spots for dash and reset but qsound is a pin that’s not connected to anything. I don’t like soldering to a chip leg so I added one jumper to another via where there isn’t anything connected, and put a pin header on the other side of that. Here’s the one remaining wire.
Looking good brutha!This is the only way i can fit a header, you gotta appreciate how small a space we are working with
So you have to solder the reset and qsound points on the A board to the solder pads on the left then you cna use a 3pin cable to the multi.
I was trying to fir a 5 pin header but it is tight. Ill tinker with it a bit and see if the design changes/works out.
I also had to eliminate pin one so this board will be soldered only with the 3 necessarry pins, instead of the 4. I made hole bigger to fit standard pin headers, but I suggestr the use of machine pins, Im not sure if the througholes for the original crystals are large enough for regular pins, if they are then thats awesom and use regular pins then.
It looks like there is space but there just isn't lol
But ill try to squeeze it in if I can
