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I tried shorting the EXC5 cap. This is my first time trying to reburn the ROMs, did I use the correct set? Does it matter which build of the ROM I use (971222 vs 980123)? I'm using the USA region but my B board didn't come in a case so I'm not sure if thats the right region or if that matters. I only burned the 8 program ROMS but I dumped them before I burned the avalaunch set on them but compared them in HxD first and only ROMs 3, 4 and 7 where different than the ones I dumped. Does that seem right? Seemed off to me.

edit: I had issues burning the 07 EPROM too I had to erase it several times and set my pulse delay at the lowest delay to get a successful burn
 
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Your main program ROMs all need to be the same region and version (build date)

It's not uncommon for most of the set to be the same as original, Avalaunch code is only required in those sections that are encrypted and this can differ depending on the game.

You can tell which ROMs are decrypted by the file name in the Avalaunch sets, for example:

mvcudi.01
mvcudi.02

Would be Marvel vs Capcom US, decrypted by idc

If in the same pack you had

mvcu.03
mvcu.04

These are part of the same set (Marvel vs Capcom US) but are not modified.
 
Verified my ROMs, made sure everything was well seated and shorted the caps, still nothing but blue screen, any ideas?
 
Could be a bad B board, have you had it working with any game prior to multi install?
 
No I got it in non working order assuming it was suicided and would be a good candidate for the multi, It’s an old rev3 capcom converted. I also have a dead MSH vs SF I’m prepping to test with that’s a rev7 with GPAL so hopefully that one will work. I have two copies of SFA (one US one JP) that are in working perfectly but I have to kill those games if I can make one of my dead boards work. I also have a dead X-Men COTA on the way in a couple days.
 
Just successfully phoenixed the MSH VS SF so I’ll stop wasting time on this old MvC board. Now I just hope my old March 2017 Multi has a boot loader and that I can get one of those arthimus QSBs
 
Successful install of the old multi!!!! So excited! Now to try and update the firmware, I can still run decrypted roms on the new firmware with wires installed right?
 
Successful install of the old multi!!!! So excited! Now to try and update the firmware, I can still run decrypted roms on the new firmware with wires installed right?
yes you can. Just make sure that each folder has a file called key that is full of 0xFF bytes.
 
Does the SW5 wire need to be removed before firmware updating via SD or just discconected from the B Board?
 
OK I'll be attempting update tonight hoping mine has the bootloader, if not I have a cheap USB ISP can I use that to update it and add the bootloader or would I be best off sending it to someone?
 
If it's from 2017 it should have the bootloader but may not have the key writing firmware.

You don't need the discovery programmer to load that, it loads from the SD card
 
If it's from 2017 it should have the bootloader but may not have the key writing firmware.

You don't need the discovery programmer to load that, it loads from the SD card
you were right update went smoothly, I didn't wanna solder directly to the pads and Arthimus' QSB's have been out at his shop for a while now so I order a couple from OSH when that comes in I'll pull the multi off and add the QSB and wires! Thanks for the info everyone sorry if I asked a bunch of noob questions.
 
I installed my key writing wires using the QSB designed by arthimus and ordered a cable from highscoresaves (https://highscoresave.com/champion-edition-cps2-key-writing-cable/) the connector on the cable was flipped so I removed the wires on one side and flipped them so the connectors would snap on correctly, and I've tested all the points on the multi to the CN9 connector with my multimeter but still can't get the keys to flash or the board to reset if loading a decrypted ROM. What am I doing wrong?

Double tested all 4 points on the board to the corresponding pins on the bottom of the CN9 connector just to validate I'm getting signal all the way through

 
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The original version of the multi has a different pinout for the key writing wires, the Champion Edition harness won't work.

You will need to make or buy one designed for the original kit
 
I know, as I mentioned I removed the wires from one of the connectors and rewired it to work if you trace the cables in the picture I posted they should go to the correct pins.

From left to right on both boards the pins go:

QSB ----> CN9
#2 -----> #2
#3 -----> #3
#4 -----> #4
#5 -----> #5
 
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