Talk to @Mitsurugi-w
- Thread starter djsheep
- Start date
This is awesome! So I imagine it's like CPS2, where we will be able to run all of the original romsets and regional variations?
Yep, exactly. I’m sure someone will have a roll-up pack ready to go with all the goodies. As I mentioned before, there’s over 170 different sets currently being tested, different regions, revisions, hacks, etc.
Highlights for me are Red Wave and Rainbow SF2 versions
ramosribeiro2000
Enthusiast
Motherboard is the same one I’m using (Short Dash 12MHz). That C-Board is right with the battery removed, however you must undo the mod and revert it back to its original state (remove the wire, reconnect the pins) for it to work. There’s another thread on here with more info on that.
I highly recommend for everyone to just buy / source a suitable C-Board if they don’t have the skills to revert the mod. It may look simple, but the pins are very fine and fragile.
I highly recommend for everyone to just buy / source a suitable C-Board if they don’t have the skills to revert the mod. It may look simple, but the pins are very fine and fragile.
ShootTheCore
Legendary
I could revert the C Board mod for a small labor fee for folks if need be.
ramosribeiro2000
Enthusiast
COULD YOU SEND ME THE LINK TO THE TOPIC FOR BOARD C REVERSION?
INFORMATION IS HERE. BUT NOT SURE IT COVERS THE STEPS EXACTLY FOR YOUR C-BOARD: https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...a-90631c-5-battery-backed-b-21-c-board.13116/
ramosribeiro2000
Enthusiast
very difficult and complicated. where can i buy a c board ready to use in multi?
I believe pins 45&46 are cut from ground (red line) and jumped to D3 to get +5v to de-suicide.
To de-de-suicide, wouldn't it be simpler to move the wire that is connected to +5v at location D3 to ground somewhere nearby, such as sanding the pad they were previously attached to (blue arrow) or by grabbing the left leg of R2 (blue circle) or possibly the other pin area nearby (blue x).
I believe i've seen some of @sheep_nova 's battery boards that were converted back to battery in this manner
*Edit* found the picture of this in the CPS1 donor board thread:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/what-donor-board-to-use-for-the-cps1-multi.13106/post-278415
Last edited:
ramosribeiro2000
Enthusiast
WHAT FEE WOULD YOU CHARGE TO PASS ME STEP BY STEP TO REVERSE THE NECESSARY MODIFICATIONS TO MY C-BOARD
Steps to reverse phoenixed C boards:
* remove wire that is connecting pins 45 and 46 to Vcc
* put a solder blob to join all three pins: 45,46 and 47. By doing this you’re tieing them up to GND. Be careful to not join other pins than those 3.
P.D: sometimes the wire is not as visible as pictures shown in this thread, and it runs below the B-21 pins, but it’s there. Ensure with a multimeter if pins 45 and 46 are already tied to Vcc before proceed.
* remove wire that is connecting pins 45 and 46 to Vcc
* put a solder blob to join all three pins: 45,46 and 47. By doing this you’re tieing them up to GND. Be careful to not join other pins than those 3.
P.D: sometimes the wire is not as visible as pictures shown in this thread, and it runs below the B-21 pins, but it’s there. Ensure with a multimeter if pins 45 and 46 are already tied to Vcc before proceed.
Right, I get that we're tying 45&46 to ground via pin 47. What i'm trying to say is rather than mess with those very close pins, why not take the jumper wire connected to 45&46 and just swing it over to ground somewhere else. That way you're not risking bridging the pins?
Sure, that’s also a perfect and valid solution. Easier to solder
If you want to set it cosmetically as close as possible as original, then you can go to the solder blob solution, but you need more practice in soldering and ensure the connections are properly done.
You choose
If you want to set it cosmetically as close as possible as original, then you can go to the solder blob solution, but you need more practice in soldering and ensure the connections are properly done.
You choose
I spent some time playing Mercs and 1941 with the Dash 12MHz motherboard today and I haven't noticed any differences with gameplay other than reduced slowdown, which doesn't seem like a bad thing at all. Are there any documented problems with these?
I bought a SF2CE board earlier this year. I burned the three ROMs to turn it into Hyper Fighting. It didn't seem to be any faster than Champion Edition. I checked my A board and discovered it was a 10mhz one. I wonder if that is an example working the other way?
Yep, I doubt you could notice it at all @r-type
I used the @aje_fr Multi for a year on a Dash board prior to this multi, played a bunch of 10MHz games. Played the whole library actually many times over.
Wouldn't know the difference whatsoever between a 10MHz and 12MHz game. Who knows, maybe some stuff was playing slightly fast, but didn't bother me. It's not worth getting caught up on and I just urge ya'll enjoy the games. If it's concerning to ANYONE to the point of obsessing over it, just grab a 10MHz and a 12MHz board and play the games at the 100000% perfect clock speed they were designed for. There's no real other way at this point to guarantee perfection without doing that anyway.
Also, if the multi doesn't come with a Forgotten Worlds spinner connector, that's not the end of the world either. Just grab the repro spinners from @hursit or new spinners from @axunworks and hunt down a Forgotten Worlds PCB, or even better, just stash them away until the multi does support them
There's too much fuss these days over correct speeds, pixel perfection, what's missing, what's not right and not enough fuss over actual gameplay IMO. I grew up playing on RF and composite and if that's all I had today, I'd actually still enjoy my time playing whatever I could get my hands on.
I've seen hardly any talk about the awesome library of games on this thread... instead it's just a bunch of worry for no real reason when the final annoucement for the multi hasn't even happened.
Anyhows, how about the Top 5 games you'll play the most on the system? For me it's been:
1. Strider
2. Cadillacs & Dinosaurs
3. The Punisher
4. Ghouls & Ghosts
5. Street Fighter 2: Champion Edition
I used the @aje_fr Multi for a year on a Dash board prior to this multi, played a bunch of 10MHz games. Played the whole library actually many times over.
Wouldn't know the difference whatsoever between a 10MHz and 12MHz game. Who knows, maybe some stuff was playing slightly fast, but didn't bother me. It's not worth getting caught up on and I just urge ya'll enjoy the games. If it's concerning to ANYONE to the point of obsessing over it, just grab a 10MHz and a 12MHz board and play the games at the 100000% perfect clock speed they were designed for. There's no real other way at this point to guarantee perfection without doing that anyway.
Also, if the multi doesn't come with a Forgotten Worlds spinner connector, that's not the end of the world either. Just grab the repro spinners from @hursit or new spinners from @axunworks and hunt down a Forgotten Worlds PCB, or even better, just stash them away until the multi does support them
There's too much fuss these days over correct speeds, pixel perfection, what's missing, what's not right and not enough fuss over actual gameplay IMO. I grew up playing on RF and composite and if that's all I had today, I'd actually still enjoy my time playing whatever I could get my hands on.
I've seen hardly any talk about the awesome library of games on this thread... instead it's just a bunch of worry for no real reason when the final annoucement for the multi hasn't even happened.
Anyhows, how about the Top 5 games you'll play the most on the system? For me it's been:
1. Strider
2. Cadillacs & Dinosaurs
3. The Punisher
4. Ghouls & Ghosts
5. Street Fighter 2: Champion Edition
MostroVeneno
Grand Master
I mean the multi featuring cps1.5 implementation has no precedents, wasn't even something to take for granted and everyone so inappetent about it makes me think nothing is good enough here, all great efforts from the creators seem to be dissolved because... I don't know someone found the multi doesn't fix his life lol.Yep, I doubt you could notice it at all @r-type
I used the @aje_fr Multi for a year on a Dash board prior to this multi, played a bunch of 10MHz games. Played the whole library actually many times over.
Wouldn't know the difference whatsoever between a 10MHz and 12MHz game. Who knows, maybe some stuff was playing slightly fast, but didn't bother me. It's not worth getting caught up on and I just urge ya'll enjoy the games. If it's concerning to ANYONE to the point of obsessing over it, just grab a 10MHz and a 12MHz board and play the games at the 100000% perfect clock speed they were designed for. There's no real other way at this point to guarantee perfection without doing that anyway.
Also, if the multi doesn't come with a Forgotten Worlds spinner connector, that's not the end of the world either. Just grab the repro spinners from @hursit or new spinners from @axunworks and hunt down a Forgotten Worlds PCB, or even better, just stash them away until the multi does support them
There's too much fuss these days over correct speeds, pixel perfection, what's missing, what's not right and not enough fuss over actual gameplay IMO. I grew up playing on RF and composite and if that's all I had today, I'd actually still enjoy my time playing whatever I could get my hands on.
I've seen hardly any talk about the awesome library of games on this thread... instead it's just a bunch of worry for no real reason when the final annoucement for the multi hasn't even happened.
Anyhows, how about the Top 5 games you'll play the most on the system? For me it's been:
1. Strider
2. Cadillacs & Dinosaurs
3. The Punisher
4. Ghouls & Ghosts
5. Street Fighter 2: Champion Edition
Personally I'm pretty amazed about everything this project is/will be.
^ that’s what I’m sayin’ man. Gotta keep these guys creating all this good stuff motivated with our enthusiasm and constructive suggestions. I honestly only posted this sneak peek thinking everyone’s just gunna be hyped and not freaking out over non-confirmed or unanalyzed details.
Agreed. The CPS-1.5 is a game changer. It’s never been “converted” properly on CPS-1 with sound. I just looked up prices for C&D original boards, and yeah, you don’t wanna know
Agreed. The CPS-1.5 is a game changer. It’s never been “converted” properly on CPS-1 with sound. I just looked up prices for C&D original boards, and yeah, you don’t wanna know
