Kagaden
Grand Master
That's my worst nightmare. I'm so sorry
- Thread starter XeD
- Start date
For Sale
Man that sucks.
Oh shit. I've heard this happen before
Do not attempt to rotate the tube unless you have verified that the wiring for the neck board has enough slack. If you're unsure, remove the neck board for safety.
I'm scared now. I have no way to fix or get new monitors here in Hawaii. I just hope I don't get something I can't fix in Hawaii.
This^
there is NOTHING in these cabs to prevent over-rotation, rotation in the wrong direction, or to keep the wires getting snagged and necking the tube.
when I got my E29s both were setup in a way that if I tried to rotate them I would have necked the tube. I had to pull the neck board clip a bunch of old zip-ties and re-route the wires in a way that made it safe to rotate, and even then the first few times I took the back off and only rotated two inches at a time checking the wires to make sure they weren't snagging.
I've also since marked the lower left (in horizontal mode) tube ear with "B" to remind myself that that corner should always be at the bottom, so I don't rotate in the wrong direction.
90sCyberThriller
Student
. On the topic of necking tubes, to the people getting windy cabs be extremely cautious. You will not be rotating this monitor often. If you want to do it plan on keeping it that way for a very long time. there is no frame around the tube, there is just a very narrow hole into the plastic frame where the neck board and neck go. I recommend laying the cab on its back and disassembling the brackets that hold up the bezel and having a friend to help. If you do end up necking it, good luck finding a replacement tube and retrofitting another monitor tube well require cutting a lot of plastic more than likely.
What's the point of a rotate mech if you have to have to disassembly the bezel, lay the cab on it's back, and have a friend help... by that metric every cab has a "rotate mech" because that's the process for rotating in anything else.
at that point I'd rather not even have it, at least in a normal cab there's a frame that protects the neck.
90sCyberThriller
Student
I was only talking about the windy, it does not have a rotate mech. The monitor is just a tube with the neck board, no frame at all
It is clear now that these cabs were not in a climate controlled environment.
Before everyone rushes home with them and plugging them in:
- Understand that things get loose in shipment (neckboards, connectors, fasteners)
- Inspect all wiring, PSU connections, Chassis and neckboards. (connections, is it secured, corrosion, mold)
- Disassemble areas as needed. (Most of you want to clean these things up anyway)
- Mask and gloves dealing with mold directly, use proper disinfectants to neutralize it
- Get a few cans of dexoit or comparable contact cleaners
- Check all your voltages, if you want to be thorough disconnect the Monitor and PSU and check line voltages first. Once verified plug that PSU in and check your 12v, 5v, -5v, 3.3v depending on your cab/psu.
Checking connections, wiring, and chassis is important. Making sure everything is secure and has all fasteners is also important. Doesn't matter who its coming from, some ppl lose bolts, etc and forget about them, even hobbyists.
For the Q25 folks, you need to remove the plastic side shells and inspect everything for mold. Condensation can get trapped in there easily.
I know what its like getting a cab, trust me, after 24 yrs I still get that feeling. Take your time and hold the urge back. I did this process on brand new machines and pins out of the box and under warranty and even found issues that could have damaged things.
Before everyone rushes home with them and plugging them in:
- Understand that things get loose in shipment (neckboards, connectors, fasteners)
- Inspect all wiring, PSU connections, Chassis and neckboards. (connections, is it secured, corrosion, mold)
- Disassemble areas as needed. (Most of you want to clean these things up anyway)
- Mask and gloves dealing with mold directly, use proper disinfectants to neutralize it
- Get a few cans of dexoit or comparable contact cleaners
- Check all your voltages, if you want to be thorough disconnect the Monitor and PSU and check line voltages first. Once verified plug that PSU in and check your 12v, 5v, -5v, 3.3v depending on your cab/psu.
Checking connections, wiring, and chassis is important. Making sure everything is secure and has all fasteners is also important. Doesn't matter who its coming from, some ppl lose bolts, etc and forget about them, even hobbyists.
For the Q25 folks, you need to remove the plastic side shells and inspect everything for mold. Condensation can get trapped in there easily.
I know what its like getting a cab, trust me, after 24 yrs I still get that feeling. Take your time and hold the urge back. I did this process on brand new machines and pins out of the box and under warranty and even found issues that could have damaged things.
Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
Just like the E3/AWSD. TBH, those Windys look like they will clean up nicely.
So one of the E2s has a busted illumination panel, whos going to end up with that?
Good question. I'm just going to have to draw numbers to see who got the short straw and partially compansate
BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
Tough to compensate a near irreplaceable $600-$800 part.
isn't there a guy on neo-arcadia that makes repos? I could have sworn I've seen them for sale within the last year or two.
BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
If it's the same guy that was selling them on Neo Geo, he also makes NAC side art. Neither of his products are the correct colors and I've heard the translite is bowed wrong so it falls out. The last time I saw a Taito translite sell it went for $800, but it was NOS in a box. I'd say $600 is what you could get for a decent looking one used, which is why I quoted 6-800.
I think this was it: http://www.neo-arcadia.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=53871
BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
Nah it's a different guy. Those appear to just be white panels? That's kinda cool. Guess you would need to print a stick to go over those?
I guess the pallet for me was forgotten no biggy
Okay..... I like to make everyone happy, but that is never going to happen. Now that you have seen pics and comments about the cab from people more knowledge then I. I'm going to do the following. This only affect mostly to the people in the US with E2 that have yet to pick up their cab.
1. The cab are going to be sold as is, except for in the case of non working psu or chassis
- In this case I will refund a portion for a generic psu of chassis repair
2. Anyone who don't like the looks or don't want to gamble on the cab. I will give you a full refund of your purchase and will pass it on to the next interested person. I apologize for wasting your time.
- Now if you paid me in Canadian your shit out of luck and will lose out on the 3% paypay charge for the conversion.
3. For those that picked up already. I will be talking to a few people to find out what is a fair refund. Again sorry for wasting your time
Now if someone drop out I will take the crack translite out of circulation, unless someone want it.
Edit:
Also note some of the E2 have repro panel. Have yet to confirm if it's just the overlay or the whole panel
1. The cab are going to be sold as is, except for in the case of non working psu or chassis
- In this case I will refund a portion for a generic psu of chassis repair
2. Anyone who don't like the looks or don't want to gamble on the cab. I will give you a full refund of your purchase and will pass it on to the next interested person. I apologize for wasting your time.
- Now if you paid me in Canadian your shit out of luck and will lose out on the 3% paypay charge for the conversion.
3. For those that picked up already. I will be talking to a few people to find out what is a fair refund. Again sorry for wasting your time
Now if someone drop out I will take the crack translite out of circulation, unless someone want it.
Edit:
Also note some of the E2 have repro panel. Have yet to confirm if it's just the overlay or the whole panel
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