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FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

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SnakeGrunger said:
Alright, I can finally write about my whole experience.

After this guy Grant from the UK would not share the identity of the replacement flyback for the Toshiba chassis, I had to dig some more and come to the conclusion that this chassis shares the same flyback with the Nanao MS2931 tri-sync monitor.


Clues were :
- People have been buying the MS2931 as a replacement drop-in chassis because it is the exact same tube.
- Looking at pictures of the MS2931 and the Toshiba PB7534, the flybacks look absolutely identical.
- Finally, one of the 3 chassis I have on hand for repair has a flyback with the markings MSU1FUS11 on it, the others having reference from a Toshiba parts catalogue I'd have to guess.

CONCLUSION : Same exact flyback. Works great, 15kHz, 31kHz.



You can get the flyback from taobao through a proxy, or from donberg electronics in Ireland :
https://www.donberg.ie/descript/m/msuifus11.htm
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=594979186324&spm=1101.1101.N.N.d8721ff

What had to be done also, a complete recap for one, I had some blown film capacitors too, and a few parts from our friends over at utsource :

HOT 2SC4288 : https://www.utsource.net/itm/p/1238239.html
Damper diode FMQ-3GU : https://www.utsource.net/itm/p/1710145.html
Bipolar diode D716 : https://www.utsource.net/itm/p/4370189.html
Vertical deflector LA7837 : https://www.utsource.net/itm/p/1016522.html

I just swapped a few parts and not an engineer / expert technician.... and they work great now.
Click to expand...
Nice work!

Do you have any Width / Horizontal issues? The picture on mine is about 1” too wide on the narrowest settings on the chassis and remote board. Neo geo is particularly bad, it’s constantly over-scanned
 
acblunden2 said:
BTW, @SnakeGrunger, looks like you are using a Sync Strike to connect your consoles to the Windy II if I am not mistaken?
Click to expand...
This is just for testing... but yes syncstrike + console for now, easier than to load the jammafier + game as I go through power cycles. Plus easy to load a 240p test suite.
thomas3184 said:
I thought this was old news with a whole thread about it: Here.
Click to expand...
This is not the same monitor chassis at all.

@markedkiller78 there is a seperate H.Size pots for 15, 24 and 31kHz on the chassis itself, that way you can shrink it some more and make micro adjustments with the pots under the CP.

 
I have the same issues as the MS29-31 thread with the flyback on mine. I assume it’s the same one grantspain uses as all the w2 chassis he’s repaired have the same issue.

I can’t speak for him, but I know it’s one of the reasons he has given for sitting on the flyback details. Under his instruction, I soldered a cap to the chassis, but it didn’t fix the issue :(

Edit: I’ve not tested 24k, but 15k and 31k are at min on the chassis, which introduces issues itself.
 
markedkiller78 said:
I have the same issues as the MS29-31 thread with the flyback on mine. I assume it’s the same one grantspain uses as all the w2 chassis he’s repaired have the same issue.

I can’t speak for him, but I know it’s one of the reasons he has given for sitting on the flyback details. Under his instruction, I soldered a cap to the chassis, but it didn’t fix the issue :(

Edit: I’ve not tested 24k, but 15k and 31k are at min on the chassis, which introduces issues itself.
Click to expand...
One of the chassis I fixed had a very large image and some pincushion issue and I couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. Turns out it had a few busted film capacitors close to the HOT transistor, like this :

 
SnakeGrunger said:
Alright, I can finally write about my whole experience.

After this guy Grant from the UK would not share the identity of the replacement flyback for the Toshiba chassis, I had to dig some more and come to the conclusion that this chassis shares the same flyback with the Nanao MS2931 tri-sync monitor.



Clues were :
- People have been buying the MS2931 as a replacement drop-in chassis because it is the exact same tube.
- Looking at pictures of the MS2931 and the Toshiba PB7534, the flybacks look absolutely identical.
- Finally, one of the 3 chassis I have on hand for repair has a flyback with the markings MSU1FUS11 on it, the others having reference from a Toshiba parts catalogue I'd have to guess.

CONCLUSION : Same exact flyback. Works great, 15kHz, 31kHz.



You can get the flyback from taobao through a proxy, or from donberg electronics in Ireland :
https://www.donberg.ie/descript/m/msuifus11.htm
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=594979186324&spm=1101.1101.N.N.d8721ff

What had to be done also, a complete recap for one, I had some blown film capacitors too, and a few parts from our friends over at utsource :

HOT 2SC4288 : https://www.utsource.net/itm/p/1238239.html
Damper diode FMQ-3GU : https://www.utsource.net/itm/p/1710145.html
Bipolar diode D716 : https://www.utsource.net/itm/p/4370189.html
Vertical deflector LA7837 : https://www.utsource.net/itm/p/1016522.html

I just swapped a few parts and not an engineer / expert technician.... and they work great now.
Click to expand...
That's really great info, I suspected they used the same flyback but it's huge to have confirmation.
 
SnakeGrunger said:
One of the chassis I fixed had a very large image and some pincushion issue and I couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. Turns out it had a few busted film capacitors close to the HOT transistor, like this :
Click to expand...
Do you still have or can you retrieve the values on those capacitors you replaced?
 
@acblunden2 you'd have to check your chassis and determine which ones seem blown. Those are usually marked with the values and voltages on them, such as "472H 1800V", 472 is 47E2, so 47 x 10² = 4700pF, 1800V range. Letter H is +/- 3% tolerance.

https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/80-R76UI1470SE40J

This one is +/- 5%, which I had to take because 3% wasn't available. I changed those after doing a recap and flyback replacement because I had horizontal sizing issues (31kHz wouldn't fill up half the screen LOL)
 
@SnakeGrunger, can you confirm the label on your flyback? Here is the label on the flyback that I am getting from Taobao from the link you posted:

MUS1FUS11_Single.jpg

It reads MUS1FUS11. The listing states that the flyback is MSU1FUS11 (the first U and S are flipped). I am hoping it is just a misprint on the label. Please post more pics of your flyback. I am hoping it is the correct flyback.
 
@acblunden2 hmm the ones I have have the correct label, but yours has sep15th 2019 datestamp on it, maybe it's just a typo the taobao seller put before shipping it out when you placed an order.

 
The seller said that my flybacks are the correct flybacks but they are mislabeled. But then again, this is a Chinese business. I am just going to grit my teeth and have them shipped over here anyway and will take it from there. UTSource parts come today. So as soon as the FB's get there, new life should be breathed back into the Windy II.
 
I sent a broken MS2930 chassis in to Sharp Image Repair and they cleaned, fully re-capped it, repaired damaged video lines, swapped the flyback and extended the neck board cables by eight inches for me so the chassis can sit in the Windy 2 metal tray without risers.

Got it back today and hooked it up. The picture has the correct brightness and great image quality! The MS2933 I had "ghetto rigged" to try out was too dim before. I know of the heater resistor fix, but supposedly this can shorten the life of tubes. Also I wanted to be able to use the manual MS2930 adjustments via the remote board since the default geometry was terrible with the MS2933 (though the OSD controls fixed things up, it would lose settings after a day or two without power).

With the MS2930 and new flyback, the horizontal image size can fill the screen fully but the vertical size isn't quite large enough even maxed out. It's definitely something I can live with, but I haven't checked to see if there is a VSIZE LIMIT pot or similar which may fix this up.

The video output right now is upside down, I think I just need to flip the vertical yoke cable the other way around - is that correct?

IwYqzgC.jpg


One other thing that is a bit scary (to me at least) is this small hole on the top of the flyback:

x8OPDOD.jpg


You guys think that should be safe as-is? I've heard some horror stories of damaged flybacks shooting lightning out from them, but so far I didn't notice anything major with the first power on.

To adapt the MS2930 chassis to connect to the Windy 2 tube, I had to do a few small things:

- I used a power drill to widen the hole on the dag cable for the neck card so it could plug in OK
- Re-terminated the degauss and horizontal yoke cables using these parts:
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...-connectors/2-pin-plug-housing-2-36mm-cm1001/
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...-pins-female-18-24-awg-10-pack-cm1006-cp1011/
- I left the degauss control cable disconnected for now as I'm not sure if the existing wiring is pin compatible or not (it's the three pin header shown above the degauss header in my flyback pic)

AC power cable fits fine from the original Windy 2 wiring, as does the vertical yoke cable. I matched brown on the MS2930 silkscreen to the green yoke wire and gray to the yellow yoke wire, but looks like I had this reversed.

The MS2930 mounting holes in the black plastic frame don't line up with the pre-drilled holes on the tray for the PB7534, so I will have to drill some new holes to properly secure the chassis. This should be a much more reliable solution than my previous "fix" of stacking two by fours and putting the chassis on top of that though.
 
@kuze unless there’s a dip-switch to flip the screen, yes just plug in the vertical yoke cable the other way (... while off)

No idea about that flyback hole...
 
non-conductive epoxy on that FB crack to insulate it. Electricity follows the closest path of least resistance. I know this because I just changed sparks on my truck. You don't want arching. You want the electricity to go into the tube or where ever it should go.

V.S. Limit should fix the vertical size issue. I did that on an MS9 over the weekend and it did wonders.

As for dag cable, I wouldn't drill it. Terminate a male pin that fits inside the dag cable to a short wire. Any pin will do as long as it is snug. Then crimp on a female pin to the other side that fits the dag pin. Heat shrink around the pins and you got a makeshift adapter cable. You can also solder a wire to the grounding strap. Then solder that wire to the back of the neckboard. Keep the connector OG.

The demag connector seems to be of the same series used on all Nanao monitors. I am looking for whatever that is too (if anyone knows, please post it here). It is not critical to displaying a stable image, unless the monitor needs a demag. But that can be done by jumpering a wire. I did this over the weekend too. Retrofitted an MS9 chassis to an Astro City MS8 chassis. MS8's demag connector has a few extra positions and so has to be reterminated for the MS9. I used the rat's nest of wire that came with the Yaton NNC's. Found a connector that I could use that had wire goig into both sides of the connector. Cut off the extra wire positions. Crimped on some female connectors pins on both sides. Flipped the cab on. Connected the connectors with my bare hands. After the jolt, monitor was demag'ed. Connectors kept me insulated and safe :).
 
Thanks guys! As far as I know, the three pin connector is the control for manual degauss and the two pin is the actual degauss (this runs to the coil around the tube). When you turn the MS2930 on it will automatically degauss once on power up, so manual shouldn't generally be needed.
 
1.) so how do you remove a jamma pin from a egret 2 harness?

I ask cause one of my grounds got pushed out but I pushed it back in (Pin A). I reckon you push the clip down from the front (where it gets inserted into the jamma harness) with a flat head and pull back. Never removed one before so thought I would ask. Below is a picture. Notice how the ground pins clips aren't pushed up as much as the others. Would it be a good idea to bend them downwards/upwards?

dNIVeQ0.jpg

In any case hopefully that wasn't why my Shen Jian PGM cart has glitches now.I popped in martial masters and it seems fine.When I noticed it glitching I checked the jamma edge and it was reading 5.36 volts and fluctuating. Probably due to the pot being slightly bent or that ground coming out. Grounds are linked on PGM from when I looked (E2 only has 3/4 ground connected though). PSU seems fine now but I put in my NOS Taito one just to be safe.

2.) Are there any plug and play solutions to an egret 2 PSU? I know people made custom connectors so its plug and play, but not sure if they still do. Stock PSU kinda sucks since the knob is annoying to tune. Even on lowest settings of the pot (both NOS/old official E2 psu) the voltage never goes below 5.08-5.10 for MVS/PGM. On CPS2 with that same setting it is at 4.72.
 
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@ChuChu Flamingo are you using a step down converter to give the e2 psu 100v instead of 120v? If not, that would cause your voltage to be high even when at the lowest setting.
 
SnakeGrunger said:
@acblunden2 hmm the ones I have have the correct label, but yours has sep15th 2019 datestamp on it, maybe it's just a typo the taobao seller put before shipping it out when you placed an order.

IMG-4740.jpg
Click to expand...
@SnakeGrunger, @8bitforlife, @radiantsvgun, can anyone of you guys confirm that the replacement flybacks you got from the Taobao seller have the pin positions as indicated below? The pins arranged in a U-shape, fit perfectly. But the pins under the screen and focus pots are not aligned. Did you have to do some wire jumpering to get this to work? Because either these are not the right flybacks, or some finagling has to be done.

MUS1FUS11_Resized.jpg
 

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