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FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

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I'd be down for one too @SnakeGrunger, if it saves you effort I'm cool with assembling myself or even just a bare PCB.
 
I found this hope its helpful I believe its wiring schematic.
 

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    Windy 2 Schematic.png
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jimmyjames said:
Now if we could just get some flybacks to work with the Toshiba PF monitors.
Click to expand...
So the plan for me is to replace the Sanwa PFX chassis that came with my NNC from this group buy. The effort should be worth it since the Toshiba has better sync compatibility at 15khz.

I am recapping two different Toshiba PF (PD1843) chassis right now. It has the worst solder I've ever encountered on a chassis. It's probably plumber's grade solder. Cold joints galore. I have to turn the heat up on my iron just to get some joints off a 5mm spaced capacitor. I am going to reflow as much stuff as I can as I go along. I am guessing if you have a dead Tosh PF and you put in the sweat to reflow the solder and recap it, it will come alive again.
 
acblunden2 said:
jimmyjames said:
Now if we could just get some flybacks to work with the Toshiba PF monitors.
Click to expand...
So the plan for me is to replace the Sanwa PFX chassis that came with my NNC from this group buy. The effort should be worth it since the Toshiba has better sync compatibility at 15khz.
I am recapping two different Toshiba PF (PD1843) chassis right now. It has the worst solder I've ever encountered on a chassis. It's probably plumber's grade solder. Cold joints galore. I have to turn the heat up on my iron just to get some joints off a 5mm spaced capacitor. I am going to reflow as much stuff as I can as I go along. I am guessing if you have a dead Tosh PF and you put in the sweat to reflow the solder and recap it, it will come alive again.
Click to expand...
I’ve heard this same thing from several people, about the solder being garbage. If it works though I’ll have to get a couple spares. Wonder why these flybacks seem so universal?
 
@Hatsune Mike, I think it is batches, not revisions since you and I both have PD1843's. But yeah, the solder was plumber's grade for sure on the chassis I have. When I recapped one of mine last night, I notice there was fluid leaking on the sides of a number of caps. I am guessing after the recap, the chassis should work again. I'll find out tonight.

Also, if you plan on recapping a PD1843, keep the 3 bipolar caps on the neckboard (1uf 250v). The ones that come with the kit from arcadepartsandrepair.com look don't look so good. Cap kit vendor said they had them specially made for this kit (1uf 400v). Who knows from what mfg and how consistent they will be over time.

As for these Taobao flybacks, my guess is the build spec tolerances aren't tight and lend the possibility that they might work in an unintended chassis. They don't work perfectly in the intended chassis. Some get a image too wide/narrow or short/tall or both. Chinese stuf. And the 3 wires coming off the bottom allows for flexible positioning. Even though they make it a slight pain to install. But they aren't universal. They are knockoffs of the MSU1FUS11 which has been confirmed to be found in the following chassis:
  • Nanao MS2930
  • Nanao MS2931
  • Toshiba PB7534
All tri-sync chassis. Will do some experiementation to see if they work in a Toshiba PD1843 and Nanao MS2933. Need to get a PD1843 up and running first.
 
@acblunden2 if I could compare with one of your PD1843 chassis, I want to see that I put on all the caps correctly. I partially recapped mine, and found that while it turns on and syncs, the screen is now blank with just a faint dark grey.
 
The PF chassis I’ve had- 2 came with my cabs and they had perfectly fine solder.

The two I got from yaton were terrible. Full reflow and recap did not fix my issues. Both yaton chassis had the same issue- power on, blinking blue screen and the remote board does nothing.
 
OK, so here is the list of interest I have received for the Sega I/O adapter for the Windy2 cabinet.

@radiantsvgun x1
@8bitforlife x1
@Derick2k x1
@wigsplitta x1
@mdk x2
@kuze x1

Total 7 boards, next week I should have all the parts to build them all and also 3D print the bases so you can screw everything tidily in place. I can do custom rewiring depending if you have button setups such as : Plug1 (buttons 1-5), KickPlug (Buttons 6) or (Buttons 1-3) (Buttons 4-6), I will rewire it depending on which kind of setup you have so it's plug and play. I can also make you Windy2 kickharness if you want, I have 3-4 female plugs left to make some.

Please PM me your PayPal email so I can send a invoice when yours is ready.

Thanks everyone !
 
radiantsvgun said:
The PF chassis I’ve had- 2 came with my cabs and they had perfectly fine solder.

The two I got from yaton were terrible. Full reflow and recap did not fix my issues. Both yaton chassis had the same issue- power on, blinking blue screen and the remote board does nothing.
Click to expand...
The chassis I recapped still is non-functional. Has the exact same issue you described. I can make out a faint 'NO SIGNAL' error when not feeding it a signal. I am going to buy the 3 filter caps for it. Also bought extras of all the transistors for the chassis. Will replace them one buy on and let you know what part ended up fixing the issue.
 
would anyone be able to get me pinout on the windy2 psu @SnakeGrunger said hed would get it but hes busy atm with io stuff so I thought if someone else could get it for me it would lesson his load. Need pinout of all connections psu. If not no biggy
 
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