I’ll take one if still available.
Little side project... my cab didn't have a working Konami Windy2 I/O board so I made a little adapter to retrofit a Sega I/O board in place, no cut!! LIttle 3D printed tray to use existing screws and screwholes. Uses up to 7 buttons, doesn't seem to have 8th button on the Sega I/O.
If anyone wants one, I can sell 3 of them with the male connectors I have here.
I understand. That was my initial concern with testing, we can't get an RMA for them! Lol.Acblunden2 said:i can’t offer any warranty on these. They are from China afterall.
I'll also take one pm inc
Little side project... my cab didn't have a working Konami Windy2 I/O board so I made a little adapter to retrofit a Sega I/O board in place, no cut!! LIttle 3D printed tray to use existing screws and screwholes. Uses up to 7 buttons, doesn't seem to have 8th button on the Sega I/O.
If anyone wants one, I can sell 3 of them with the male connectors I have here.
Great little board you've done
Little side project... my cab didn't have a working Konami Windy2 I/O board so I made a little adapter to retrofit a Sega I/O board in place, no cut!! LIttle 3D printed tray to use existing screws and screwholes. Uses up to 7 buttons, doesn't seem to have 8th button on the Sega I/O.
If anyone wants one, I can sell 3 of them with the male connectors I have here.
I've gotten interest for 4 of them, I think I should be able to do all them and the cabling. Just waiting on a shipment from JST for extra missing connectors, FedEX should only take a few days.Great little board you've done Do you have any plans on doing another batch in the future? I'm pretty sure a couple of W2's that made it to the UK had non working I/O boards.Little side project... my cab didn't have a working Konami Windy2 I/O board so I made a little adapter to retrofit a Sega I/O board in place, no cut!! LIttle 3D printed tray to use existing screws and screwholes. Uses up to 7 buttons, doesn't seem to have 8th button on the Sega I/O.
If anyone wants one, I can sell 3 of them with the male connectors I have here.
Interested in a couple as well if you do another batchI've gotten interest for 4 of them, I think I should be able to do all them and the cabling. Just waiting on a shipment from JST for extra missing connectors, FedEX should only take a few days.Great little board you've done Do you have any plans on doing another batch in the future? I'm pretty sure a couple of W2's that made it to the UK had non working I/O boards.Little side project... my cab didn't have a working Konami Windy2 I/O board so I made a little adapter to retrofit a Sega I/O board in place, no cut!! LIttle 3D printed tray to use existing screws and screwholes. Uses up to 7 buttons, doesn't seem to have 8th button on the Sega I/O.
If anyone wants one, I can sell 3 of them with the male connectors I have here.
The schematic for yaton’s cabs is similar but you need to print the document, dip it in water and wait until mold attacks the piece of paper. Once that’s done, empty an ashtray on it and you have the proper schematic.I found this hope its helpful I believe its wiring schematic.
So the plan for me is to replace the Sanwa PFX chassis that came with my NNC from this group buy. The effort should be worth it since the Toshiba has better sync compatibility at 15khz.Now if we could just get some flybacks to work with the Toshiba PF monitors.
I’ve heard this same thing from several people, about the solder being garbage. If it works though I’ll have to get a couple spares. Wonder why these flybacks seem so universal?So the plan for me is to replace the Sanwa PFX chassis that came with my NNC from this group buy. The effort should be worth it since the Toshiba has better sync compatibility at 15khz.Now if we could just get some flybacks to work with the Toshiba PF monitors.
I am recapping two different Toshiba PF (PD1843) chassis right now. It has the worst solder I've ever encountered on a chassis. It's probably plumber's grade solder. Cold joints galore. I have to turn the heat up on my iron just to get some joints off a 5mm spaced capacitor. I am going to reflow as much stuff as I can as I go along. I am guessing if you have a dead Tosh PF and you put in the sweat to reflow the solder and recap it, it will come alive again.