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Slypty

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I live in Canada, and picked up a rare CRT on a whim. It's a European Model (220V) so I needed a step-up converter, has 3x SCART inputs, S-Vid & Composite so it was hard to resist.

I was cleaning out the back and took a pic & posted the tube model, then someone on the CRT Collective (Facebook Group) noticed it's the same tube used in a Blast City, so this may be useful to some who need a tube swap.

There's other model Grundigs that use this very tube, so I've added a link to a service manual that lists models that potentially use this tube, and maybe others that can be used in Blasts.

Aside from that, I have a question about this tube. When I first power it up, especially with a static screen (like when it's on a Channel for example) I get a lot of breathing (expanding/shrinking screen). It may go away after 5 minutes, but it's a little annoying. Oddly enough, I had a KX-27HG2 on the same bench last week and it was also breathing, so I'm second guessing that interference can cause this problem, but I've never heard of it happening.

I'm aware that this could just be an issue with contrast being set too high, I don't have a remote (yet) so I can't make the adjustment. I figured maybe the Blast City could have a similar problem and if there's a known fix. It works flawlessly, but the breathing and these types of 'Z' looking waves on the screen almost look like the raster is being pushed too hard by G2 or Bright.

I guess my question is if there's a method of using a Scope to test the dynamic focus board on these tubes. I figure this could be where the issue lies, either that or a bad cap in the G2 circuitry?

Link to Grundig Service Manual with compatible tubes:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PFf5JegX1FrhEv0P3Ko7vAzbEB170SZf/view?usp=sharing
 

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oh sorry about that, I was on my phone and I just realize it doesn't show location there.

why I ask? ...to bug you for the tube of course ;) ... but thanks for the model number... will keep an eye on that!
 
Lol well I appreciate the honesty, does the value of this tube outweigh the set? Didn't realise this tube is so desirable... but I'll keep it in the Grundig anyway
 
Anything burn-free is cconsidered valuable. But Grundigs are exotic to Canada, no? I'm pretty sure they are native to Europe and will be hard to spot just for a Blast City tube replacement.
 
I've recapped a Blast City before and had success, but I did everything at home and it worked after install. So I'm not completely out of it but never needed to do a tube swap.

Grundigs would be rare here, seems that there's at least 5 models that carry this tube. Maybe I just opened a box of cookies for people in Germany, no idea.
 
I actually have a Blast City mainboard here I'm starting a repair for someone. I'm aware that the Blast is up to 31khz, would I risk damaging the Grundig's yoke if I threw the Blast board in it? I don't have the tube of the Blast so I can't just swap yokes right now. I could probably get the PSU
 
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mesure the yoke: is it "Toshiba A68KZN696X / MS2930 : H :0.5 Ohms V:6.7 Ohms" ?
 
I'll check but might be a while. I'm torn between keeping the Grundig or getting a 15-31khkz chassis to use instead
 
Personally, I'd go the route of the new chassis. You could pick up another crt without too much of a bother but a spare MS29 is a lot harder to come by.
 
I'd need to find my own MS-29 chassis, but wouldn't know how to turn it On with out a Cab and all the buttons and switches. Is there a switchboard one can purchase to go with an arcade chassis that delivers these options?

This one's perfect but pricy
Sanwa 15-31khz
I'd consider housing the chassis under the Grundig in its' own casing, and if possible keeping both by splitting the shared connections and having separate power inputs, then just running the wiring through the bottom of the Grundig and into the casing. Of course if I accidentally powered up both I'd probably blow up the city.
 
I'd need to find my own MS-29 chassis, but wouldn't know how to turn it On with out a Cab and all the buttons and switches.

you plug it in!

This one's perfect but pricy
Sanwa 15-31khz

Sanwa is not the same quality as nanao. Don't. Especially at that stupid price.


I'd consider housing the chassis under the Grundig in its' own casing, and if possible keeping both by splitting the shared connections and having separate power inputs, then just running the wiring through the bottom of the Grundig and into the casing. Of course if I accidentally powered up both I'd probably blow up the city.

What do you want to run on the Grundig? if you want to run consoles, get a D-Series and *ahem*, offer the toshiba tube to somebody with a spare ms-29 chassis :) :)
 
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