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I picked up a V4.1 HAS kit but it seems like the fork terminals for the DC ground and +5V lines of the included harness don’t fit my Mean Well RT-85A PSU. The terminals are about 1mm too wide.

Wanted to see if folks had a workaround I’m not thinking of.

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Re-crimp them with smaller forks (best solution). Rip them off and just wind the wires around the screw (ghetto solution). Buy a new power supply with bigger screw terminals (dumbest solution).
 
I picked up a V4.1 HAS kit but it seems like the fork terminals for the DC ground and +5V lines of the included harness don’t fit my Mean Well RT-85A PSU. The terminals are about 1mm too wide.

Wanted to see if folks had a workaround I’m not thinking of.
You would really just need to crimp on new terminals, these sort of kits do an "ok" job of it:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H94F5X3/
 
Has anyone tried connecting HAS to a RetroTINK5X? What's the best plan of attack here? I have HD-15 VGA Adapter. RetroTINK5X only has SCART or Component as the highest quality connection types.
 
Has anyone tried connecting HAS to a RetroTINK5X? What's the best plan of attack here? I have HD-15 VGA Adapter. RetroTINK5X only has SCART or Component as the highest quality connection types.
Just remove the HD15 and use a min 8 din into a SCART head.

This seems overpriced, but something like this:

https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk...-CDi-Colecovision-Intellivision-Panasonic-3DO

EDIT: And I don't even know if you have to remove the HD15, both out puts on the HAS might work simultaneously.
 
I'd just use the SCART cable, but I much prefer the HD15 adapter. I got an extra thick SCART cable from Retro Access and the cable's so heavy it likes to unplug itself ever so slightly; just enough that it causes problems with the audio and video.

To get the HD15 from the HAS to work at all, you need to set your HAS to TTL... or at least, the OSSC expects TTL from the VGA port when the source is RGB.

If you forget to set the HAS jumpers back to 75 Ohm and plug in your SCART cable, that means you'd be using SCART at TTL and that's something both the HAS and RetroTink 5X explicitly forbid in their manuals.

I actually tried doing HD15 from HAS > OSSC in 240p passthrough > HDfury3 > RetroTink 5X and that didn't work. And I double-checked to make sure the HDfury3 actually was in component mode and not RGB (all default dip switch settings), so I dunno.

If you don't already have an OSSC and someone's willing to sell theirs for cheap, I say pick it up exclusively for supergun use. 480p should work on everything and you'll get the most authentic scanlines that way. I tried it on a Dell 2007FP LCD Monitor (which is 4:3) and after setting the OSSC to DVI Output Opt. > TX mode > DVI, everything looked so good!
 
VGA is really a must just for later gen pre-HD motherboards like Naomi 1/2 and Atomiswave, just my two cents.
 
I'm not sure it's VGA pin out, but it's def HD15 connector, but he was asking about the RetroTink 5x not the OSSC so I was giving him a reply based on that.

Otherwise, I totally agree with you guys!
 
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It’s not VGA, it's just the connector and he was asking about the RetroTink 5x not the OSSC so I was giving him a reply based on that.

Otherwise, I totally agree with you guys!

And I'm trying to talk him out of using the 5X.

Also when I used the RetroTink 5X with my arcade PCBs, it was real picky with what kind of sync it needed from the HAS. I didn't used to bother with it, but with the 5X I had to for the first time ever. I'd either get no picture, or a picture with that bendy, curly image at the top. No trouble with the OSSC.
 
And I'm trying to talk him out of using the 5X.

Also when I used the RetroTink 5X with my arcade PCBs, it was real picky with what kind of sync it needed from the HAS. I didn't used to bother with it, but with the 5X I had to for the first time ever. I'd either get no picture, or a picture with that bendy, curly image at the top. No trouble with the OSSC.
This is REALLY good information (thank you). I hope you can pass it to RT5x creator and also post about which PCBs exhibits this behavior and your settings. Most of the buyers are console users, but obviously many of us PCB users are very curious about its performance.

I'm personally waiting for the OSSC Pro so I can use that rotate feature...
 
This is REALLY good information (thank you). I hope you can pass it to RT5x creator and also post about which PCBs exhibits this behavior and your settings. Most of the buyers are console users, but obviously many of us PCB users are very curious about its performance.

I'm personally waiting for the OSSC Pro so I can use that rotate feature...

Well, Mike's a good guy and I'm sure he gets enough requests as it is, let alone about stuff he probably doesn't personally have. I think I'll wait until he implements custom modes for PSP and GB Interface first before piling on. :saint:

Otherwise, yes, when my arcade PCBs worked with the RT5X, the 1080p OVER mode worked great on my otherwise picky monitor (another reason why I just stick with 240p Line2x on the OSSC for supergun use, because everything takes 480p). 1080p OVER isn't good for Pac-Man though, because that mode crops just enough to also crop out the edges of the walls, so all the walls look like escape tunnels. This is with me perfectly centering the image with the remote as well. But I play more than just Pac-Man, so without a menu to instantly go to the resolution I need, I'm stuck cycling through a bunch of resolutions I don't need.

To be fair, my RT5X testing with arcade PCBs was done on the initial firmware, so maybe that "Neo Geo fix" firmware did the trick. But when I'm using what I believe is a superior solution with the OSSC anyway (since HD15 forces a separate cable for audio, theoretically making for a cleaner picture)... I won't be retesting any time soon. At least not until I find an 8-pin mini DIN cover because one of these days I'll forget about TTL, and then goodbye expensive equipment...

I too am waiting for the OSSC Pro, or possibly the Pixel FX Morph, for a rotate and zoom feature. And pretty much for one game: The Xbox 360 port of Dodonpachi hidden away in Instant Brain. It's supposed to be the most accurate port, but you can't rotate the screen for a fullscreen TATE or configure buttons. I've already rewired an arcade stick so the top three buttons are A (shot), B (bomb), and X (rapid). A scaler that rotates and zooms would be the last piece of the puzzle, and let's face it, would still be cheaper than getting the PCB!
 
The Xbox 360 port of Dodonpachi hidden away in Instant Brain. It's supposed to be the most accurate port, but you can't rotate the screen for a fullscreen TATE or configure buttons. I've already rewired an arcade stick so the top three buttons are A (shot), B (bomb), and X (rapid). A scaler that rotates and zooms would be the last piece of the puzzle, and let's face it, would still be cheaper than getting the PCB!
That port is pretty meh. For accuracy, grab the MiSTer :). Cheaper than the PCB and lots of unported games!
 
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I got my HAS 4.1, but I'm running into an issue getting Dodonpachi and Esprade to work - not getting sync with either, on the OSSC or the Retrotink 5x. I'm connected via RGB SCART with the Csync level set to 75R. I've tried the buffered and regenerated modes. Sound and controls work - just the video that's not working. PSU is a Meanwell 606.

I did get the HD15 adapter but haven't had a chance to try that yet and see if that'll resolve the issue if I pipe it through the OSSC... but I've not heard of anyone else having issues with these games, so I'm wondering if there's something obvious I'm doing wrong.
 
I got my HAS 4.1, but I'm running into an issue getting Dodonpachi and Esprade to work - not getting sync with either, on the OSSC or the Retrotink 5x. I'm connected via RGB SCART with the Csync level set to 75R. I've tried the buffered and regenerated modes. Sound and controls work - just the video that's not working. PSU is a Meanwell 606.

I did get the HD15 adapter but haven't had a chance to try that yet and see if that'll resolve the issue if I pipe it through the OSSC... but I've not heard of anyone else having issues with these games, so I'm wondering if there's something obvious I'm doing wrong.
Try this.

HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode

Also you can try buffered, regenerated, and unprocessed, but it should work on buffered, as that's what my Esparade works on.
 
Are you using a SCART cable, or VGA?
HD15 into AV3 on the OSSC. If you want, check out page 183 (the prior page) in this thread you can see my set up with pictures.

Also, that's not a VGA adapter on the HAS, it's a HD15 adapter (I know they are the same shape, but I'm not sure if the HAS outputs the same pins as VGA, it might, but I don't know for sure).

EDIT: I had to update this post like six times, sorry, it's late and I'm sleepy! OK, so my prior post is from 3 years ago, when I was apparently using the HD15 adapter (likely to support my F3 multi).

I've since switched to SCART, b/c I'm lazy with my moving stuff around. I keep it on TTL and regenerated though (although the instructions say you should keep it on 75Ohm, I'm just lazy and Mike has assured me it wouldn't damage anything, and hey, it's been 3 years...)
 
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