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triple_lei

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Is it bad that those terminals aren't covered by anything? I like the more accessible dial for adjusting the 5V (I really dislike using a thin plastic tool and feeling around for a notch to turn on my Mean Well MWP-606), but I don't want to accidentally kill myself just blindly reaching for it either.

Otherwise, I'm there! And it'll give me an excuse to upgrade to the newest HAS. Always wanted a dedicated Pac-Man setup...
 

hyp36rmax

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Is it bad that those terminals aren't covered by anything? I like the more accessible dial for adjusting the 5V (I really dislike using a thin plastic tool and feeling around for a notch to turn on my Mean Well MWP-606), but I don't want to accidentally kill myself just blindly reaching for it either.

Otherwise, I'm there! And it'll give me an excuse to upgrade to the newest HAS. Always wanted a dedicated Pac-Man setup...

I asked about this on Twitter. https://twitter.com/axunworks/status/1386739420116652032?s=20

1620078096768.png
 

tonyt76

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Hi everyone, what setting is needed on the has to play jamma pcbs outputting scart to an ossc?
 
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XtraSmiley

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Hi everyone, what setting is needed on the has to play jamma pcbs outputting scart to an ossc?
Every PCB can be different. Some PCBs will not work at all. It would be easier for you to tell us what PCB you are trying to use.

The OSSC has a million different settings that make a lot of difference as well, not to mention the TV may or may not accept certain sync and resolution.
 

XtraSmiley

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Here is a post from a while ago. I didn't update it but it may help someone more recently. I've tested (played) a ton more games on a HAS 4.0, so if you have questions about a specific game feel free to ask.

2 September 2018 HAS testing update, in the future I'll update this post vice making a new one:

At this time I have not needed to purchase a SCART cable to use with the OSSC at all. Please try my settings before spending an extra $20-25 on something you my not need. A small caveat is that you will not have a LPF in this scenario, resulting in very light image distortion most visible on solid backgrounds. See my note below about this. I will retest when I get my SCART cable.

I am using HAS 3.1, OSSC 1.6 FW .81, 8pin min DIN cable with the 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter PCB connect to the OSSC, with 3.5 audio cable for sound.

IMG_0467.jpg
HAS 3.1 right side showing 8pin min DIN cable connection and 3.5mm audio cable. These two cables plug into the OSSC (see below). Note that on the HAS I have the jumper (JP2) 75 Ohm/TLL pulled off (meaning it is in TTL mode) and the Switch 1 (SW1) set to (B) Buffered for CSync.


IMG_0468.jpg
OSSC 1.6 version. Left side when looking from top. HDMI cable out and 3.5mm audio cable into OSSC port "A3 IN" from the HAS.


IMG_0469.jpg
OSSC 1.6 version. Right side when looking from top. 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter PCB connect to the OSSC "V3 IN" port. 8pin min DIN cable plugged into it from the HAS. Lower cable is the OSSC power.


On OSSC the default setting for Pre/Post Coast is 1. You may have to set to something higher such as 4 to get a good sync for some games. I was able to get a sync on some games at 1 but I have read that others needed a 4 for the same game, so it could be odd tolerances between boards. Finally you must be in mode AV3: RGBS (the first/default mode is AV3: RGBHV).

Atomiswave : Dolphin Blue, Metal Slug 6 =

HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, but had to mess with it initially by setting to 4. Now seems to work starting in 1. Set Atomiswave hi-rez dip switch to off, get 480i passthrough, looks like shit, and you must correct the aspect ratio in your TV settings.

HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, but had to mess with it initially by setting to 4. Now seems to work starting in 1. Set Atomiswave hi-rez dip switch to on, get 480p passthrough, looks much better but you must correct the aspect ratio in your TV settings.

Capcom CPS2 : Dungeons & Dragons Tower of Doom (Phoenix ROMs) =

HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.

Irem M72 : Dragon Breed =

HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off. Also, bottom layer of this games screen is cut off (score, lives, time layer) at the default settings. To see it you have to adjust the settings under Advance Timing Tweaker. I set Vertical Sync Length to 6, Vertical Backporch Length to 30, and Vertical Active Length to 240. This allows you to see the full bottom line information and graphics, however the top is now cut off a bit. You could cut back on my settings to see the numbers, giving up a little bit of the graphics but gaining back the top line. Your call how you rock this.

Irem M92 : Major Title 2, Ninja Baseball Bat Man =

HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.

PGM : Demon Front, Espagaluda, The Gladiator, Oriental Legend, Photo Y2K, Photo Y2K 2 =

HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.

Taito F3 : Elevator Action Returns =

HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 4, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.

Sega STV : Radiant Silvergun =

HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 4, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.

Sega System 16 : Altered Beast, ESWAT, Golden Axe, Shinobi =

HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.

Not having a SCART cable makes it so you can play all PCBs with one cable, and avoid having to change the TTL to 75R, which is hard because the jumper is under the plexi, but there is one issue, see below.

*****Low Pass Filter. The HAS uses a THS7316, which doesn't have a LPF (at the frequency we are using for Arcade Boards), but that is normally good because the OSSC has a built in LPF. What you never want is, more than one LPF, or no LPF, so we should be set right? Yes, except the OSSC VGA input that we are using via the 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter doesn't have a LPF, so in essence, our feeds in this set up do NOT have a LPF at all, resulting in a picture that isn't as good as it could be. This is likely the reason I have some of the distortion I listed earlier below. Once I get my SCART cable, I'll post my results.******

The ONLY thing I think I noticed, and it's difficult to spot because you need a solid back ground and there is no way to pause arcade games, is that the images seem to have slight distortion in the solid back grounds. You can Google why LPF are important in old arcade/console image clarity to see some examples. It's not terrible, but I'll post more results when I get my SCART cable.

Anyway, a big thanks to RGB for the HAS, Jassin for his testing before hand that let me jump right into playing, and to James at JNX, who is always helping me get shit working
 

KeeseMan

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The microcontroller being replacable, could I remove it and put a few jumpers in place? Preferably a small PCB with legs in the right places which connects the input and output pins of buttons.
This is assuming the microcontroller just handles the button mapping and autofire. Can this be done? And what is the pinout?
 

PronkMeister

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Has (no pun intended) anyone managed to get the HAS v4 to work with a Hyper Neo Geo 64?
When I try, the power supply doesn't even turn on, nor the HAS. It works very well with my 2-slot MVS though.
I also have a Shogun, and this works fine with the Hyper Neo Geo 64, so I know it's not the board.
Can anyone provide any insights ?
 

RGB

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The microcontroller being replacable, could I remove it and put a few jumpers in place? Preferably a small PCB with legs in the right places which connects the input and output pins of buttons.
This is assuming the microcontroller just handles the button mapping and autofire. Can this be done? And what is the pinout?
Sure! Which HAS version do you own? I'll PM you the pinout.

======

The last HAS V4.1 wave is out, you can order it through my wordpress as usual - https://homearcadesystem.wordpress.com/pre-order/
Thank you!
 

KeeseMan

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Another newb question: I was thinking about how to implement vsynced autofire on a controller adapter. The HAS has Vsync that I can tap into, but what kind of signal can I expect on that pin - analog or digital? By that I mean, does it just switch between 0V and 5V (or whatever) on vsync, or is this an analog signal that I need to watch for some pattern? Another way to ask: Do I connect this to a digital or an analog IO pin on an arduino?
 

mthngn

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Another newb question: I was thinking about how to implement vsynced autofire on a controller adapter. The HAS has Vsync that I can tap into, but what kind of signal can I expect on that pin - analog or digital? By that I mean, does it just switch between 0V and 5V (or whatever) on vsync, or is this an analog signal that I need to watch for some pattern? Another way to ask: Do I connect this to a digital or an analog IO pin on an arduino?




Rapid-fire configuration mode

Press and hold down one arbitrary button and the START button for 3 or more seconds. After 3 seconds an appropriate status LED on the HAS board will light up and buttons will no longer register – this means the HAS has entered the rapid-fire configuration mode and you can release the buttons.

Right after you release the last of the buttons held down, you can enable the rapid-fire feature by pressing buttons.

Each press of a button corresponds to the rapid-fire rate.

  • One press -> 1/2 of the game’s VSYNC,
  • Two presses -> 1/3 of the game’s VSYNC,
  • Three presses -> 1/4 of the game’s VSYNC,
  • Four presses -> 1/6 of the game’s VSYNC,
  • Five presses -> 1/8 of the game’s VSYNC,
  • Six presses -> 1/10 of the game’s VSYNC,
  • The seventh press disables rapid-fire; the eighth press starts the countdown over. No button press means the rapid-fire will not be set.
  • Additionally, each press of a button is indicated by the status LED blink. To exit the rapid-fire mode and save the settings, press the START button.
    Button layout and rapid-fire settings reset
    You can consider this a full device reset. It will erase the layouts for both Player 1 and 2. To do the reset, press and hold down both Player 1 and Player 2 START buttons while powering on the HAS.
 

KeeseMan

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@mthngn I know how to use the built-in autofire mode. My question has to do with how to implement vsync autofire in an external device. There are auxiliary connectors on the HAS which give you various things, like vsync. I think they are meant to enable just the kind of thing I want to do, but I still need to know a litte more about the vsync signal. To a hardware guy "vsync" probably tells him all he needs to know, but I don't know that much about hardware.
 

kikaso

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I picked up a V4.1 HAS kit but it seems like the fork terminals for the DC ground and +5V lines of the included harness don’t fit my Mean Well RT-85A PSU. The terminals are about 1mm too wide.

Wanted to see if folks had a workaround I’m not thinking of.

B303FFDE-FB89-40C4-85CE-049B8DD1001B.jpeg
 

XtraSmiley

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Re-crimp them with smaller forks (best solution). Rip them off and just wind the wires around the screw (ghetto solution). Buy a new power supply with bigger screw terminals (dumbest solution).
 

dos

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I picked up a V4.1 HAS kit but it seems like the fork terminals for the DC ground and +5V lines of the included harness don’t fit my Mean Well RT-85A PSU. The terminals are about 1mm too wide.

Wanted to see if folks had a workaround I’m not thinking of.
You would really just need to crimp on new terminals, these sort of kits do an "ok" job of it:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H94F5X3/
 

hyp36rmax

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Has anyone tried connecting HAS to a RetroTINK5X? What's the best plan of attack here? I have HD-15 VGA Adapter. RetroTINK5X only has SCART or Component as the highest quality connection types.
 

XtraSmiley

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Has anyone tried connecting HAS to a RetroTINK5X? What's the best plan of attack here? I have HD-15 VGA Adapter. RetroTINK5X only has SCART or Component as the highest quality connection types.
Just remove the HD15 and use a min 8 din into a SCART head.

This seems overpriced, but something like this:

https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk...-CDi-Colecovision-Intellivision-Panasonic-3DO

EDIT: And I don't even know if you have to remove the HD15, both out puts on the HAS might work simultaneously.
 
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