ShllShockArcade
Enthusiast
It can i own one
Home Arcade System
- Thread starter RGB
- Start date
XtraSmiley
Legendary
Awhile ago I needed the start button remapped b/c of Guardians of the Hood (the BEST brawler with digitized characters ever!) and RGB was kind enough to send me a special modified HAS chip that did it, so I have been enjoying this feature since the 3.0 days, but I'm super glade it made it into the standard build. It's needed 100% IMO!It can i own one
ShllShockArcade
Enthusiast
It can i own one
Yeah, I wish they all did this … it must be hard to implement
My version doesn't. Was an upgrade in newer revision.
XtraSmiley
Legendary
Remind me via PM in 7 days and I’ll mail you my chip, I don’t need it on the 4.1 I have now.
Not necessary. If I need to change start in the future I'll cross that bridge then.
nwilloughby
Beginner
I am running into an issue when connecting an MV1C (ASIA BIOS S3 Ver 6) to the HAS v4.2. When testing player 1 in the BIOS button C&D do not register and B registers as A. I have tried two motherboards and using different controllers and the issue exists regardless of controller or motherboard.
These controllers work on both the HAS with Simpsons Arcade Board and on a consolized CMVS.
I have searched online and the HAS manual and did not find anything that might be causing this. Is there anything anyone can suggest to test to possibly resolve this issue?
These controllers work on both the HAS with Simpsons Arcade Board and on a consolized CMVS.
I have searched online and the HAS manual and did not find anything that might be causing this. Is there anything anyone can suggest to test to possibly resolve this issue?
Have you tried to remap the button layout on the HAS? Also, make sure the rapid-fire is cleared.
nwilloughby
Beginner
And One
Student
Is the mwp 606 power supply the one to get for this super gun and if I can't find it is there some good alternatives out there?
Meanwell RT-85A is what you’re after.
And One
Student
Is this the one you personally use and does it work perfectly fine if you do use it?
9999 Damage
Grand Master
RT-85A is the popular choice it seems like most are using. I’ve been using RT-125A, which I’ve since gathered is overkill.
Yes.
And One
Student
Thank you guys. I'll order one asap.
XtraSmiley
Legendary
It's not if you ever drive some big chonker PCBs like Atari games from the late 80s...
JohnRambo'sKnife
Champion
Curious about 2 things:
1. Aux connector 4 (CN2) - I assume this is for tapping jamma level RGB before it is attenuated? I want to use this to send video directly to an arcade CRT. Don't plan on outputting both to the arcade monitor and sending attenuated video to the VGA module at the same time, but would be nice to know if this is safe should it happen by accident.
2. There is a jumper on the VGA module (JP1). What is this for? Ideally, I would like to enable 5v on pin 9 so I could power the trisync helper for use with a scaler.
1. Aux connector 4 (CN2) - I assume this is for tapping jamma level RGB before it is attenuated? I want to use this to send video directly to an arcade CRT. Don't plan on outputting both to the arcade monitor and sending attenuated video to the VGA module at the same time, but would be nice to know if this is safe should it happen by accident.
2. There is a jumper on the VGA module (JP1). What is this for? Ideally, I would like to enable 5v on pin 9 so I could power the trisync helper for use with a scaler.
1. Correct, CN2 is the raw JAMMA video. You can send video both to the arcade monitor through the CN2 and through the VGA module at the same time. Just make sure you use the buffered or regenerated CSync for the VGA/8 pin mini-DIN out, just in case.
2. That's exactly what it's for
closing the jumper will give you +5V on pin #9.
JohnRambo'sKnife
Champion
I don't have them anymoreDo you still have any leftover CXA2075 modules? I would like to purchase one
