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The Meanwell RT-85A will work fine for the HAS and any JAMMA boards you plug into it. However Naomi isn’t JAMMA so it needs to have power, controls and video all adapted in some way. Here’s two possible scenarios:

1) Connect the Naomi to the VGA input on your OSSC with a VGA cable. Power the HAS with the Meanwell RT-85A. Purchase and connect a Capcom IO between the Naomi and HAS. The Capcom IO will power the Naomi off of the JAMMA power provided by the HAS and Meanwell PSU. Plug a controller with DB-15 pinout into the HAS but be aware that you’ll be limited to only joystick Naomi games. The Capcom IO also has some input lag.

2) Don’t use the HAS or Meanwell PSU at all. Connect the Naomi directly to the VGA input on your OSSC with a VGA cable. Use a PC ATX PSU with the Irken cable to power the Naomi. Purchase and use a Iona JVS adapter with an Xbox controller. You’ll then be able to play Naomi joystick and analog control (driving, flying, Virtual On) games with no input lag.
 
The Meanwell RT-85A will work fine for the HAS and any JAMMA boards you plug into it. However Naomi isn’t JAMMA so it needs to have power, controls and video all adapted in some way. Here’s two possible scenarios:

1) Connect the Naomi to the VGA input on your OSSC with a VGA cable. Power the HAS with the Meanwell RT-85A. Purchase and connect a Capcom IO between the Naomi and HAS. The Capcom IO will power the Naomi off of the JAMMA power provided by the HAS and Meanwell PSU. Plug a controller with DB-15 pinout into the HAS but be aware that you’ll be limited to only joystick Naomi games. The Capcom IO also has some input lag.

2) Don’t use the HAS or Meanwell PSU at all. Connect the Naomi directly to the VGA input on your OSSC with a VGA cable. Use a PC ATX PSU with the Irken cable to power the Naomi. Purchase and use a Iona JVS adapter with an Xbox controller. You’ll then be able to play Naomi joystick and analog control (driving, flying, Virtual On) games with no input lag.
I believe I have explained my set up in my question that you are replying too. I am using your scenario 1 but was making sure the psu I'm using for the Naomi (Mvc2) is the proper psu to use for Naomi or if it's an underpowered psu for this setup.
 
I stand corrected. I missed that you already had a Capcom IO.

I don’t use the Capcom IO with Naomi so I’ll be quiet now and let someone who does use the Capcom IO talk about the PSU they use. :thumbsup:
 
my 2cents : I'd advice against atx psu use with naomi"2" especially with netdimm+pi+cf powered from the naomi2😅

it is advised to use a good known working psu (I personally use a meanwell qp-150-3a) have the 5V lane at 5.1V off load, so as the ram module get what they really should be working with IIRC, otherwise, "undervolting" those can mean killing chips
 
my 2cents : I'd advice against atx psu use with naomi"2" especially with netdimm+pi+cf powered from the naomi2😅

it is advised to use a good known working psu (I personally use a meanwell qp-150-3a) have the 5V lane at 5.1V off load, so as the ram module get what they really should be working with IIRC, otherwise, "undervolting" those can mean killing chips
But what is a good one to use with the HAS combined with a Naomi 1 using a capcom I/O board?
 
I am sure this must have been answered many times before but this is a simple and solid solution.
The ATX PSU is the way to go but you need to buy a quality PSU. This is what I use on my NAOMI 2:

. Corsair ATX 450M PSU
. A high quality ATX to JST adapter to power the NAOMI 2, https://irkenlabs.com/product/atx-to-jst-vl-adapter/
. To power the HAS I take the included power cable for the HAS and attach a standard MOLEX power plug so I can power the HAS from the ATX (I shorten the cables)
. Then I power the Capcom IO (or similar) via the JAMMA edge from the HAS
. I only use the JVS part of the Capcom IO but feel free to use the RCA for audio if you need that.
. I take VGA directly from the NAOMI 2 to my monitor.

I hope that answers your question @And One
 
The NAOMI 2 is not very picky, however it vital to use a solid PSU and a proper ATX to JST-VL adapter. The one from Irken is very good.

The Meanwell QD-150-3A should also work nicely you just need to source the JST-VL plugs.
 
I've used several different ATX power supplies with both Naomi 1 and Naomi 2 without any issues, but yeah, make sure its some reputable brand.

I'm using a Seasonic for ny Naomi2 setup now. Works flawlessly.
naomi2.jpg
 
I am sure this must have been answered many times before but this is a simple and solid solution.
The ATX PSU is the way to go but you need to buy a quality PSU. This is what I use on my NAOMI 2:

. Corsair ATX 450M PSU
. A high quality ATX to JST adapter to power the NAOMI 2, https://irkenlabs.com/product/atx-to-jst-vl-adapter/
. To power the HAS I take the included power cable for the HAS and attach a standard MOLEX power plug so I can power the HAS from the ATX (I shorten the cables)
. Then I power the Capcom IO (or similar) via the JAMMA edge from the HAS
. I only use the JVS part of the Capcom IO but feel free to use the RCA for audio if you need that.
. I take VGA directly from the NAOMI 2 to my monitor.

I hope that answers your question @And One
Thank you so much!!!
 
Wow.... so I finally hooked up the HD15 adapter to my V4.1 via doing some testing on my PVM. Man oh man, total night and day between my OG V3.2 running it with the Playstation adapter with component. I also tried plugging in a regular scart cable then into a Retrotink RGB2COMP transcoder. Can someone chime in either is it the HD15 with my V4.1 making a better visual than my V3.2?
 
Photos taken with my iPhone 13 Pro Max using the Pro Cam app on my friends borrowed Sony PVM 20M2U
Left photo: V4.1 via HD15/Monoproce DB15-BNC cables.
Right photo: V3.2 via RGB’s PlayStation hat going in component
 

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Here’s an odd issue that has arisen with my HAS 4.0, player 1 buttons 5 and 6 do not register no matter what I do.

- I have tried remapping the buttons. The led indicator blinks on the HAS indicating it sees the input, but once registered no button press is sent to the game.

- Swapping the p1 controller to p2 all buttons work normally as p2

- I’ve tried multiple pcbs and kick harness types and verified they are working ok separately from the HAS

- I’ve tried plugging the kick harness into the JAMMA extension board as well as on the HAS main unit directly.

Any ideas what to try next?
 
- I’ve tried plugging the kick harness into the JAMMA extension board as well as on the HAS main unit directly.

Any ideas what to try next?

Were all tests done with the JAMMA extension? If so, please try without. If you're using one of my JAMMA extensions, then check the DIP switch positions for buttons 5 and 6.
 
Were all tests done with the JAMMA extension? If so, please try without. If you're using one of my JAMMA extensions, then check the DIP switch positions for buttons 5 and 6.
Yes all tests were done with your JAMMA extension. I tried the DIP switch positions for buttons 5 & 6 both on and off.

I have now tried removing the JAMMA extension and plugged the HAS directly into the game PCB and no difference.
 
Button 6 output is driven with a robust external NPN transistor, so it would be strange if it died.. so I have an idea - go into rapid-fire config, and exit it with start. It will reset all potential rapid-fire settings (the fastest rapid-fire rate is often too fast and the game won't detect it, so it looks like a dead button).
 
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