fallinlight
Student
Home Arcade System
- Thread starter RGB
- Start date
fallinlight
Student
And I know when I have the right RGB channel, because it gives a light 'bump' of noise. But I know this is the same channel I always use for my games consoles, too. I hope that confirms everything for you, RGB.
I could try to produce a short video for you if that might help and upload it to YouTube as a private video. But everything is as I have explained, thus far.
This really won't work without power. I bought the RetroTINK cable and had the same issue. My TV allows me to manually set it to AV but it won't display anything. This can be solved using something like this - https://consoles4you.ch/en/scart-sense-injector, but I think it's an overkill for what you're trying to do here. If you can solder, I can guide you on how to add power to the Scart head.
fallinlight
Student
Oh, OK. So, the issue is simply needing power/ more power. Well, I fried and partially melted 2x components in my PAL SNES recently trying to replace a dead fuse (managed to get the SNES fixed). But I did manage to bridge the 2 pins on both of my Atomiswave boards nicely the other night. What would the solder job entail, RGB? I could maybe give it a go.
I just filmed a video but if the issue is solely what you said above, then I won't upload it to YouTube for you.
Also, in case it matters, in contrast to what the below reviewer said about the Retroverse - Scart Sense Injector, my MiSTer FPGA Computer Shack cable does work for me with my MiSTer and this TV.
I'm an American with a couple of RGB modded Sony Trinitrons that work great but aren't compatible with many of my devices, such as my MiSTer, my RGB Dual Pi, or my Extron Crosspoint switches. This product is the answer to a problem that has plagued me for years! My specific mod requires the blanking signal voltage from the console, and none of the above devices could provide that. Now I can use my TVs as I originally intended. Thank you for creating this product!
P.S. Reflex Volt USB PD power supplies from Mister Addons work perfectly with this device".
I think I would feel safer not tisking destroying my RetroTink cable, RGB, but do let me know what the soldering job entails, please. If I feel it is beyond my remit, I will have to splash out on the scart sense injector. I found one available for sale here in the UK for £34.99:
https://www.retroupgrades.co.uk/product/scart-sense-injector/
It looks like it would plug into my scart switcher, so at least it would be out of sight and out of the way.
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fallinlight
Student
XtraSmiley
Legendary
Hey anyone who has an idea. I recently picked up a Sony PVM 20L5 which is known to have some issues with arcade PCBs. Many work fine, but Konami (Bucky O'hare series PCBs) have a wave along the top, looking like a sync issue, and Penguine Brothers PCB has a black haze over the screen with garbled colors in areas. Both these PCBs work great everywhere else and the PVM displays many other PCBs fine. I'm using a HAS 5.0 and I think in internet is telling me I might need a sync stripper in the chain somewhere. So:
1. Does the HAS 5.0 have a built in SS I can activate (I don't believe so, I've messed with it and read the manual and didn't see it. But, if not, idea for the future!
2. Is this what can possibly solve this, or should I look for a different solution?
Thanks team!
1. Does the HAS 5.0 have a built in SS I can activate (I don't believe so, I've messed with it and read the manual and didn't see it. But, if not, idea for the future!
2. Is this what can possibly solve this, or should I look for a different solution?
Thanks team!
I don't have a 20L5, but based on my experience with the similarly picky D20F1U, a LM1881 sync stripper would be the first thing to try since it's not crazy expensive, and even cheaper if you know how to build the cable yourself. It will probably be useful with some consoles like the PCE/Turbografx as well.
BNC-SCART cables with a LM1881 built in are commonly available on eBay. I think I got my first one from wookieewin many years ago, but I'm sure there are others as well.
BNC-SCART cables with a LM1881 built in are commonly available on eBay. I think I got my first one from wookieewin many years ago, but I'm sure there are others as well.
XtraSmiley
Legendary
Nope, this didn't work. I don't think sync over composite was the issue. It's weird. This is a cool PVM, but it's giving me interesting sync issues on certain arcade PCBs!
@RGB any thoughts on this? Also as an aside, you don't have a manual for the HAS 5.1 yet, but any chance you could post the pinout for your HD-15 video output? I'm going down the road of getting an Extron and am curious how you broke out the RGBS signal.
fallinlight
Student
Hi bud,
Hope you are well. Just to get ahead of things in case this is of help to you. If it is incorrect, then I will remove it.
A fellow forum friend is helping me with my current issue above. I won't have my scart sense injector for another week or so, and I am still interested in trying to mod my RetroTink cable for the necessary 5V power I need, as I really just want to start using my arcade boards and I'd rather a modded cable than the extra scart ad-on, if possible. So, he has trying to to guide me as to how to mod it. He asked me if there is any documentation for the HD-15 pinout last night. But he shortly found and shared with me the below, I don't think it is from the HAS 5.0 manual but he is knowledgeable, so it seems to apply to what I am trying to do at least. But does it help you?
Kind regards and Happy New Year,
fallinlight
XtraSmiley
Legendary
Thanks for this, but it is likely wrong as that's a HS on 13 and VS on 14, and I'm guessing RGB is using CSYNC on 13, and who knows what other changes (if any). It's best not to guess and wait for the official answer!Hi bud,
Hope you are well. Just to get ahead of things in case this is of help to you. If it is incorrect, then I will remove it.
A fellow forum friend is helping me with my current issue above. I won't have my scart sense injector for another week or so, and I am still interested in trying to mod my RetroTink cable for the necessary 5V power I need, as I really just want to start using my arcade boards and I'd rather a modded cable than the extra scart ad-on, if possible. So, he has trying to to guide me as to how to mod it. He asked me if there is any documentation for the HD-15 pinout last night. But he shortly found and shared with me the below, I don't think it is from the HAS 5.0 manual but he is knowledgeable, so it seems to apply to what I am trying to do at least. But does it help you?
Kind regards and Happy New Year,
fallinlight
See here for a diagram of what I mean:
https://retrorgb.com/vgaconnector.html
and here:
https://www.geocities.ws/podernixie/htpc/cables-en.html#vgascart
fallinlight
Student
Yes, I think you're right about waiting for the official answer! I really wanted to try to help is all and you never know! Thanks for letting me know.
Kind wishes and I hope you get things sorted
XtraSmiley
Legendary
No problem, I am sure he's using a stock RGB wiring, but I just want to make sure. Also, for you, will this help you:Yes, I think you're right! I really wanted to try to help is all and you never know! Thanks for letting me know.
Kind wishes and I hope you get things sorted
https://www.geocities.ws/podernixie/htpc/cables-en.html#vgascart
fallinlight
Student
Thanks! And.. not without some guidance! So, I will share this with my mentor
Thank you kindly
fallinlight
Student
Hi @RGB,
Hope you are well. I'd like the pinout too, please in case one of Retro Upgrade's cables, or any other vendor's might work.
Will from Retro Upgrades replied and said,
"Our MiSTeR SCART to VGA cable only has SCART blanking pin 16 connected (which forces RGB mode). I would suspect this to be enough for the HAS Supergun but I don't have experience with that product). The SCART Sense Injector provides voltage to pin 16, but also pin 8 which controls aspect ratio. Because the SSI provides all SCART voltages, this is why I recommended it to you. If you can specify the HAS Supergun requirements (pinout/voltages) to work with your TV/monitor then I can let you know if the SCART to VGA cable will work or not.
As for your RetroTINK cable: in the US, SCART blanking voltage is not always required so perhaps that is why the RetroTINK cable does not work. The Retro Computer Shack one should have worked though unless for some reason they decided to leave pin 16 N/C".
Will added,
"Do the RetroTINK and Computer shack cables have SCART blanking pin 16 disconnected then?
Our cable uses VGA pin 14 -> SCART pin 16 for blanking voltage as VGA pin 13 (HSYNC) is used for SYNC and VGA pin 14 is otherwise unused.
I'd still recommend just using the SSI though, unless you're able to confirm the other two cables do indeed have SCART pin 16 disconnected then ours may do the trick".
I told him I am not sure about that. But I will try to find out.
And if you could please also post the mod guide here, that would also be of help, and for anyone else who needs it.
Kind thanks,
fallinlight
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That's unfortunate that it didn't work.
An Extron interface like the 203rxi or 580xi would be the next thing I would try, mostly because I have them on hand.
Sadly I wouldn't have high hopes of that fixing the issue either. I saw a similarly picky monitor (D14) recently from a forum member that was unable to sync with a IGS PGM, even though my D20 had no issues. That person did try a 203rxi with no luck. That might be something to consider since these devices aren't cheap like a LM1881 is, so it might not be worth that shot in the dark.
XtraSmiley
Legendary
Oddly enough, I have a 203rxi and no go either. If I turn the boost knob all the way, I do get it to work, but it's still stretched a bit and looking off.That's unfortunate that it didn't work.
An Extron interface like the 203rxi or 580xi would be the next thing I would try, mostly because I have them on hand.
Sadly I wouldn't have high hopes of that fixing the issue either. I saw a similarly picky monitor (D14) recently from a forum member that was unable to sync with a IGS PGM, even though my D20 had no issues. That person did try a 203rxi with no luck. That might be something to consider since these devices aren't cheap like a LM1881 is, so it might not be worth that shot in the dark.
XtraSmiley
Legendary
I had forgotten about this thread as well. We'll have to wait to see what RGB says. He might have built some of those adapters.
This is how Scart cables should be wired for the EU/AU TV sets. +5V isn't required for the upscalers, PVM/BVM, or other non-Scart equipment.
I sent an adapter to Dan for some testing. @Zepherino I doubt the LM1881 can help with anything here.I had forgotten about this thread as well. We'll have to wait to see what RGB says. He might have built some of those adapters.
fallinlight
Student
This is how Scart cables should be wired for the EU/AU TV sets. +5V isn't required for the upscalers, PVM/BVM, or other non-Scart equipment.
Kind thanks, @RGB. I've forwarded this to Will at Retro Upgrades to see if his VGA to Scart is wired like this. If not, I might just stick with the SCI for now. Or, if I feel to try to take on another soldering task for the experience, I could try the mod. Though, I tried to see about opening the RetroTINK cable earlier and wasn't sure how to.
The cable would have to make use of pin #9 of the HD-15, and it looks like the Retro Upgrades cable doesn't use it. The RT cable definitely doesn't use it, as stated earlier.
The mod would be simple; you would need to provide the +5V to the Scart head as in the diagram above. You could install a USB type A socket/female cable in the Scart and tap power from the HAS using a USB-C to USB-A cable.