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Home Arcade System

GuileWinQuote said:
Blackfish said:
GuileWinQuote said:
Anyone know the best way to get the 8 PIN DIN video output the HAS outpus onto a CRT with RCA/component?
And likewise the cheapest way?
Thank you!
Click to expand...
RGB offers a component, S-Video output board that plugs into the HAS
Click to expand...
he ran out and won't restock soon, so I'm not sure what route to go to getting video out
Click to expand...
It's very roundabout but this is how I get component on my CRT setup (mostly because I ran scart/xrgb-mini previous for my consoles so it dropped in)

I use this adapter to convert video/audio to scart from the HAS https://www.ebay.com/itm/EU-SCART-t...-xrgb-nintendo-sega-neogeo-retro/202224320116
Along with this http://www.ani-av.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=220 to convert to component video.. I actually just run the audio from the HAS directly into this device but I could run it through the scart connector if I really wanted to.

This setup has worked flawless with all of my consoles and arcade boards. The Shinybow converter also has a LM1881 sync cleaning circuit so it works well for things like Genesis that use composite video for sync. An added bonus with this setup is it'll work with any euro scart system so it isn't dedicated to a single device.
 
sammargh said:
Got mine today and I have to say this thing is quite impressive and thanks so much! My only suggestion for future orders is asking the person if they use any sort of Jamma extension cable. The CPS2 kick harness for mine is too short to reach the HAS as I use an extension cable but it's not a huge issue. Turned out I had spare plugs to crimp my own longer harness which fixed that. The main reason I use an extension cable is I don't like having something hang off the Jamma edge and some boards have it set relatively high in comparison to where the board would sit once mounted.

Edit: that said I do have a question though - is it possible to wire up the 3p/4p adapter with the VGA port or do the two boards rub up against one-another (while retaining the plexi)? This thing is so cute once all put together that I kind of regret not getting the adapter and am considering ordering one with some harnesses (hopefully longer though! ;) )
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I know what you mean with the JAMMA extension, I really wish I could offer them, but they involve too much work.

As for the HD15 adapter, it's just stacked on top of the 3P4P adapter. The HAS becomes quite tall with two modules attached (modules and plexi glass cases are separated with 15mm stand-offs), so the alternative here is to use the 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter instead.
 
is there anyway to wire a button for on off? My has works great and everything but was surprised there was no way to turn it off besides unpluging it
 
8bitforlife said:
is there anyway to wire a button for on off? My has works great and everything but was surprised there was no way to turn it off besides unpluging it
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True, but you can easily solve it by putting one of these inbetween:

m1myamswhkac.jpg
 
Would need a sizeable switch to incorporate it into the PCB. Lots of voltages to deal with and it would need to be able to withstand up to 15A. Not as trivial as it sounds.
 
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Sp33dFr34k said:
8bitforlife said:
is there anyway to wire a button for on off? My has works great and everything but was surprised there was no way to turn it off besides unpluging it
Click to expand...
True, but you can easily solve it by putting one of these inbetween:
m1myamswhkac.jpg
Click to expand...
May I suggest this?
http://sonoff.itead.cc/en/products/residential/s20-socket
S20_08_3.jpg

With third party open source firmwares (like this https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota ) it can be integrated in any domotic environment.
Hey Siri: turn on the Neo Geo!

Regards.

Locutus73
 
Received mine today and can't wait to check it out. Thanks so much for the fine work.
 
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Install shots (and my one cord HD15+3.5mm solution)...
Cpu7Lm1.jpg

LLHkPBc.jpg

7JAqFdw.jpg


For the OSSC to lock the the F3 via HD15 adapter, the HAS must be set to output Buffered TTL Sync.
2y9nK0T.jpg


Open/remove the jumper at location #17 (TTL) and move the jumper at location #18 to center (buffered).
The OSSC must have both its Pre/Post Coast set to 4, and be in mode AV3: RGBS (the first/default mode is AV3: RGBHV).

1Hk0UEJ.jpg

5WBO1WQ.jpg

o6mZ8tX.jpg

AY1iLv7.jpg
 
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haveing a little bit of a problem. I am getting interference on rgb out. I did buy the cable rgb mentioned to get from the nesrgb guy. Im not sure if its the cable causing this because it doesnt looked like its shielded or could it be my psu. Its kind of old from an arcade cabinet.

Ps i did fix my power button issue bought a cord with inline switch
 
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