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In this thread we tube and yoke swap monitors

No worries, the hunt continues and my friend wants this as a retro gaming tv so it still goes to use :thumbup:
 
what sort of chassis would you mount on a videocolor tube? I've only seen these with intervideo chassis.
 
ninjaz0mbie said:
Has anybody in here successfully removed a bonded yoke from a consumer tube and replaced it with a yoke from an arcade monitor?

I have two JVC 27” consumer sets with beautiful pictures and a high-TVL count that I would love to throw into an Astro City if possible, but the yoke impedance is way off and to do a swap I will need to figure out how to remove the bonded yoke.

Just wondering if this will be worth my time or if I’m in for a world of pain.
Click to expand...
Tubes with bonded yokes are hit-or-miss, in my experience. If the purity/convergence is set with a static magnet and not adjustable rings, don't bother at all.

The few tubes I've tried that had bonded yokes, I was able to get them off by using a heat gun on low. It will be slow going, and more often than not you'll need to peel and break apart the bonding from the tube since it will not come off in one piece. Just blast the yoke/windings directly with the heat gun and start taking it apart piece by piece.
 
Does anyone have a good method for separating yoke that had been epoxied / glued / siliconed to tube?
 
benime said:
ninjaz0mbie said:
Has anybody in here successfully removed a bonded yoke from a consumer tube and replaced it with a yoke from an arcade monitor?

I have two JVC 27” consumer sets with beautiful pictures and a high-TVL count that I would love to throw into an Astro City if possible, but the yoke impedance is way off and to do a swap I will need to figure out how to remove the bonded yoke.

Just wondering if this will be worth my time or if I’m in for a world of pain.
Click to expand...
Tubes with bonded yokes are hit-or-miss, in my experience. If the purity/convergence is set with a static magnet and not adjustable rings, don't bother at all.
The few tubes I've tried that had bonded yokes, I was able to get them off by using a heat gun on low. It will be slow going, and more often than not you'll need to peel and break apart the bonding from the tube since it will not come off in one piece. Just blast the yoke/windings directly with the heat gun and start taking it apart piece by piece.
Click to expand...
Try this method, @kikaso
 
Thanks, @hackcell

I can only see a small bit of the silicone or whatever it is so might be hard to reach to pick at.
 

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Those are just the rubber wedges. That doesn't mean the yoke is bonded. Undo the screw at the base of the yoke and twist the yoke. If it's just silicone between the wedges and the yoke, the yoke will just come off.
 
Yeah that doesn't look bonded. Like nem said, loosen the screw, cut the silicone with a razor to separate the wedges and yoke, and then gently twist. Once it's loose, you should be able to pull it straight off.

With bonded yokes, you'll typically see some kind of thin, plastic-like sheeting material underneath the yoke, like this:

o2aspbjaxuj51.jpg
 
nem said:
Those are just the rubber wedges. That doesn't mean the yoke is bonded. Undo the screw at the base of the yoke and twist the yoke. If it's just silicone between the wedges and the yoke, the yoke will just come off.
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You are right, sir!

I used a knife to cut into the silicone and twisted as you said. Worked perfectly! Thanks!
 
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In the pickup thread, I had gotten my hands on two toshiba sets. Started to mess with them this morning and luckily both have Toshiba tubes that are a match to the Egret 2s.

Heres what it looks like with a yoke and ring swap:

tKOmtRWm.jpg

XMdjsKAm.jpg


I got the yokes and rings from Yaton awhile back- I am wondering if I should take the yoke and rings off my e2 and direct transplant since I would know how it was exactly positioned. Or just continue to fight with the ring assembly I have; or could I use the rings that came off the set?

Either way, no purity problems, other than a corner that disappears with a degauss; hopefully I can get these sorted and into my cabs, these tubes have a wonderful, bright picture and seem to be fairly low use.
 
Hey all. I am picking up a RCA 19" F19421 crt tomorrow. Just browsing the internet, I see that it should be compatible with a WG K7000 chassis.

Some references add a "W" to the end of the TV's model number. I had no luck finding any info when googling "F19421W". But on the other hand I find plenty of info like manuals, etc. when searching for F19421.

Anyone know what the "W" indicates?

Thanks!
 
Probably nothing important.

Looked up a pic online. Tube looks good for a K7000.
 
nem said:
nassekova said:
Thanks! Just messaged the seller about it :thumbup:
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If by some crazy chance it has the wrong neck connector on it, I want it!!

I like how the seller is advertising it with pics of Gunstar Heroes Treasure Box. A man of class.
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Yeah and I just found out that it is the same seller who sold me the wrong size 21" TV earlier :D He was sorry about it and tries to get that new one for me in Oulu in 2 weeks. I let you know what kind of neck it has when I get it!
 
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So I got the TV yesterday and today I checked the tube. Seems to be Philips A48ECR43X58 (I seem to get all Philips tubes...).

putki_001.jpeg

A48ECR43X58.jpeg


Yoke seems to be B10-277 type socket. What I read Hantarex MTC9000 can have this or then B8-274 type connector? So I need to be careful when buying the chassis to get the right one?

yoke_001.jpeg



@nem do you happen to know if this is straight fit other vice or do I need to measure this one too?
 
Yeah, that should work as is. Since you have a ESR20, you might as well double check the inductance of the yoke to be sure.

How are the wires attached to the yoke?

nassekova said:
What I read Hantarex MTC9000 can have this or then B8-274 type connector?
Click to expand...
I've never seen the latter. I suspect they're very uncommon. You can always ask for a pic.
 
nem said:
I've never seen the latter. I suspect they're very uncommon. You can always ask for a pic.
Click to expand...
Ok, so should be pretty safe. I think you said to swap that MTC9000 flyback with a HR702, why is that?


nem said:
Since you have a ESR20, you might as well double check the inductance of the yoke to be sure.

How are the wires attached to the yoke?
Click to expand...
Here are some pictures. They were paired ready so it was easy for me to make my first ever inductance measurement :thumbsup:

poikkeutuskelat.jpeg

Red and Green connector

puanen_ja_vihree.jpeg

Result green
vihree_tulos.jpeg


And results red

punanen_tulos.jpeg


I can't find what those 20" Hantarex tubes should have? There is only those larger tubes mentioned in here:
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Yoke_Specifications ?
 
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