In this thread we tube and yoke swap monitors

[RealMFnG]

@Microfinne, there is a chance. Each chassis is going to handle things differently as it sends its signal down to the yoke. Who knows, might just not sync and you'll be unscathed. Might just blow up. If it blows up think about the cost to repair your chassis. Even if you have the skills to do it yourself, you are probably going to look at $35-$50 in caps and parts. All of this to find out if it will work or not. Here is a better +EV proposition for you:

The BSide Pro is $25 bucks. If you after you measure your donor and come to find that it is not within 10% of your monitor specs, then you can just conclude you have to do a yoke swap. If you decide not to do the yoke swap, you are looking at re-terminating yoke connectors. Doing that properly is going to cost your $4 in connectors. Not doing it with connects requires you to splice, solder, and insulate. After doing that, it might still not work. Now you have to resplice, resolder, reinsulate the original connector to the monitor yoke.

Net/Net: BSide Pro is $25 and a worthwhile investment if you are going to do tube swaps. Will save you time and money.

 

[nem]

At least check the resistances with a multimeter if nothing else.

If you decide not to do the yoke swap, you are looking at re-terminating yoke connectors. Doing that properly is going to cost your $4 in connectors. Not doing it with connects requires you to splice, solder, and insulate.

The yoke connector for the Hantarex can't be found anywhere. However, please don't splice. You can just solder the original wires to the poles. Not all deflection yokes have poles on the top, but in this size, they're very common.

 

[Microfinne]

Thanks guys, here are some photos shot few days ago. Will check resistances and post here later.

 

[SegaSaturn94]

Successfully did a tube swap for my friend's Wells Gardner U2000 chassis. The original tube in it was a burnt out Zenith A63AGD01X. The monitor was dim and the green gun was almost completely dead. (Good ol' Zenith.)

I had just recently picked up a 25" Magnavox CRT TV from a FB Marketplace listing for free. (Tube model number was a Philips A63AFW36X.) After doing some research online, I ascertained that the tube would be a match for that chassis! First picture is the old tube, and the following pictures were the new one!

We swapped the tubes for his chassis and the yokes as well. We powered it up and... voila!

Now at first the image was too dark, and I thought it was the tube. I was worried there was some spontaneous emissions leak or something, but that wasn't the case. Just some faulty resistor needed replacing. Now it looks great!

Anyway, this has been a learning experience for me, as I'd never done a tube swap before. Nowadays I rescue 19", 25" and 27" tubes in my area and give them to people to use as tube swaps in their arcade chassis. What a great hobby!

 

[duffcon]

It’s funny; now that retro gaming on CRTs is en vogue, every CRT on marketplace is a “retro gaming tv”. Used to get them for free, now ppl want $150 for a vanilla TV. It’s constraining an already dwindling supply. Grab em’ while you can!

 

[hoagtech]

I found a little 19" on the way to work today, covered in dew, and was hoping I could use it for one of my electro home or k-7000 19" monitors with PAC burn. Donor Model : F19253BC

I Tested the ohms on the V and H coming off the leads built into the yoke.

11.3 V

3.8 H

Here is the Tubular cross reference of the RCA tube model A48AAB13X02

I'm unsure of neck connector types and wondered if there was a database for arcade chassis that listed neck connector types and default Ohms.

Since I had my screwdriver out. I decided to decase a PRO Scan PS27108 27" Semicurve to check if it would help my Nanao 2931

Ohms

8.2 V

1.0 H

I don't believe I have seen a yoke transplant on a 2931 or 33 and wondering if this is a waste of time as I will transplant the OG yoke anyways..

Once again does someone know where I can default neck and ohm values for the 2931 for my blast and what key factors to look for other than 27" and Semicurve?

Here is the tubular reference on the RCA A68AEG36X01 tube.

Thanks for any help to hopefully get my candies monitors back in action.

 

[nem]

I'm unsure of neck connector types and wondered if there was a database for arcade chassis that listed neck connector types

For neck connector types the ArcadeOtaku wiki is very comprehensive

https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/CRT_designation_systems#CRT_base_designations

For yoke measurements, there's

https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/yoke-and-tube-specs-for-monitors.9819/
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Yoke_Specifications
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gD6laah_JWWT1RZaLfXfDIVsc5_aj74PPxQCatNl6X8/edit

I don't believe I have seen a yoke transplant on a 2931 or 33

I don't think you'll ever find a consumer television that has a 0.200mH yoke that will compatible with these chassis. You'll always need to transplant the original arcade yoke on to the donor tube.

 

[duffcon]

Love the rando on the side of the road CRT. I need a “I brake for TVs” bumper sticker!

 

[Microfinne]

Finally got some measures of two potential donor tubes:


19"Goldstar A48KMX02XX

Lh	Lv	Rh	Rv
1.64 mH	26.2 mH	2.3 ohm	14.0 ohm

19"Goldstar A48KMX12XX

Lh	Lv	Rh	Rv
1.64 mH	27.2 mH	2.2 ohm	13.8 ohm

 

[Kidkaos]

I have a question for those of you who tube swap all the time. I have two A68 tubes. Both from Toshiba 27" screens here in the U.S
The curve looks right. I popped Both out of cases, one has purity rings non bonded yoke and might work. But what about the 2nd one with NO PURITY rings and also probably no bonded yoke. Anyone use one this style??
Tube #: A68AEG25X13
One of the deflection connectors measured .219
The other one I couldn't read or think it said 12.789 or 13? Would this be a good candidate for an ms2931 tube swap??

 

[Kidkaos]

I also have this 2nd one I picked up tonight
Tube #: A68KAS30X02
This one does have purity rings, also appears to have no bonded yoke. Did not get a reading for it.

 

[nem]

A68KSA30X is actually the standard tube most often paired with a Hitachi GMK chassis and sometimes a MS9. That's a great get.

I don't know of any consumer TV in this size that comes with a 0.200mH horizontal yoke, so I doubt either of these tubes would work as is with a MS2931.

How did you get the measurements for the first tube? Can you take some pics of you measuring it?

 

[Microfinne]

@nem do you know if A48KMX02XX would pair okay with MTC900 and MTC9000?

 

[nem]

I've had very good luck pairing TV tubes with the MTC9000. Out of three, basically random picked TV tubes, all of them worked on a MTC9000 with their original yokes:

https://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?p=505663#p505663

 

[Microfinne]

nice, seems almost plug and play - basically swap tube and solder wires to yoke?

Do you have experience with swapping in a Philips tube and match with MTC9000?

 

[nem]

Never a Philips tube.

basically swap tube and solder wires to yoke?

That's right.

 

[Kidkaos]

A68KSA30X is actually the standard tube most often paired with a Hitachi GMK chassis and sometimes a MS9. That's a great get.

I don't know of any consumer TV in this size that comes with a 0.200mH horizontal yoke, so I doubt either of these tubes would work as is with a MS2931.

How did you get the measurements for the first tube? Can you take some pics of you measuring it?

Really? Thats great news if it indeed fits an ms9. Was really hoping for an ms2931/30/32/33/34 tube for my Blasts!!
But I'll take it if it's an Ms9 tube too.
I have a GMK Hitachi chassis and that's totally different. My GMK tube is this one...you possibly meant GML??

 

[nem]

Consumer TV tubes very unlikely have MS9 compatible yokes, but the tube itself is good.

I have three Neo 29 / Neo Candy 29. They all have A68KSA30X paired either to a GMK-29FS or a GMK-29FS2.

 

[Plymelk]

I have a question for those of you who tube swap all the time. I have two A68 tubes. Both from Toshiba 27" screens here in the U.S
The curve looks right. I popped Both out of cases, one has purity rings non bonded yoke and might work. But what about the 2nd one with NO PURITY rings and also probably no bonded yoke. Anyone use one this style??
Tube #: A68AEG25X13
One of the deflection connectors measured .219
The other one I couldn't read or think it said 12.789 or 13? Would this be a good candidate for an ms2931 tube swap??

The picture of the 1st tube looks like a bonded yoke to me. To echo nem, its highly unlikely that a consumer tv yoke would measure out to meet ms9 spec or ms2931 spec yokes.

Consumer TVs (and their yokes) almost never were designed to drive 24Khz or 31Khz signals, thus are likely incompatible from electrical standpoint with those chassis.

This means you need the original yoke from the arcade monitor to swap onto the donor tube. In your case, if the tube fits the blast bezel, then you just need to find a ms2930/31/33 yoke to swap that arcade monitor yoke with the consumer tv yoke.

FWIW, 19" or A48xxx tubes usually can retain their yokes for the purpose of installing an arcade monitor chassis. Many 19" arcade chassis's (K7000s for instance) are typically made for low impedance 15Khz yokes and most 19" consumer tv yokes (from the mid 1990s onward at least) are within a similar spec and thus can be compatible without a yoke swap. I have never sourced a 27" or A68xxx tube from a consumer TV that is compatible with any dual res or tri-sync montior without a yoke swap.

 

[dewmansnk]

I also have this 2nd one I picked up tonight
Tube #: A68KAS30X02
This one does have purity rings, also appears to have no bonded yoke. Did not get a reading for it.

What model of TV did you get the Toshiba A68KSA30X002 tube from ?