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Has anyone heard from Undamned recently? I've been trying to contact him for several months, getting a little worried that something has happened to him :(
 
Has anyone heard from Undamned recently? I've been trying to contact him for several months, getting a little worried that something has happened to him :(
Yes, recently. He's fine, but I think has taken a little bit of a break from selling. He said parts to build more are still expensive, so I don't know what ETA on new things are.

Follow him on Twitter if you want to see more from him.
 
Parts for USB2DB15 are really crazy expensive right now and worst part is that that's a pre-order from factory to get the main IC, and it takes almost one year on queue, hopefully i have plenty for a long run. Hope UD back to business soon.
 
A lot of chips say year plus lead times... I'll be surprised if a lot of them see another run at all. We can hope.
 
He hadn't Tweeted since August either which seemed a little unusual. Last time we spoke he seemed optimistic that he'd have some parts but could be his suppliers let him down (that's happened to us too).
 
Okay guys, thanks for your patience. Here are the Gerber files for the PCBs (I used PCBWay with good results), and the hex files for the chips.

There are two PCB layouts:
  • idc-CPS2_PIC12F509_629_675_683_DIP_konosuke_pinout_v4_gerber.zip - this follows the same pinout as konosuke's excellent CPicS2 project
  • idc-CPS2_PIC12F509_629_675_683_DIP_aje_fr_pinout_v4_gerber.zip - this follows the same pinout as aje_fr's chips
The connecter required is a JST 6P-HVQ. You could also use F6P-HVQ, which is the same connector without the locking clip. There should be enough friction to hold it in place securely. I prefer the ones with the locking clip, but they're a little more difficult to get off if you need to unplug the mod PCB. Whichever you use, make sure you grip the connector, not the PCB, when removing.

You can use a suitable eight-pin DIP socket for the PICs, or you can just solder them straight in if you're not going to need to reprogram the chip at any point, or use the mod in another game board.

There are four groups of hex files:
  • PIC12F509_konosuke_pinout - compatible with PIC12F509 chips only, following konosuke's CPicS2 pinout
  • PIC12F675_konosuke_pinout - compatible with PIC12F629, PIC12F675 and PIC12F683 chips, following konosuke's CPicS2 pinout
  • PIC12F509_aje_fr_pinout - compatible with PIC12F509 chips only, following aje_fr's pinout
  • PIC12F675_aje_fr_pinout - compatible with PIC12F629, PIC12F675 and PIC12F683 chips, following aje_fr's pinout
There is no functional difference between the hex files for the different chips. Just select the chips that are the cheapest and/or most readily available. Similarly, it doesn't matter which pinout you use, so long as you write the hex file that corresponds with the PCB layout (konosuke pinout or aje_fr pinout). I replicated the pinouts of both konosuke's and aje_fr's projects simply for the sake of users being able to choose the one with which they may be most familiar.

I write the PICs with a GQ-4X programmer.

I think I have most, if not all, currently dumped games covered. Please let me know if you notice any that may be missing! :)

Code:
konosuke pinout:                     aje_fr pinout:

           +---\/---+                            +---\/---+
   +5V:Vdd |1*     8| Vss:GND            +5V:Vdd |1*     8| Vss:GND
  DATA:GP5 |2      7|                   DATA:GP5 |2      7| GP0:SETUP2
SETUP1:GP4 |3      6| GP1:CLOCK                  |3      6| GP1:CLOCK
           |4      5| GP2:SETUP2                 |4      5| GP2:SETUP1
           +--------+                            +--------+


                          CPS2 CN9:

                           +---+
                           | 1*| +5V
                           | 2 | DATA
                           | 3 | SETUP1
                           | 4 | CLOCK
                           | 5 | SETUP2
                           | 6 | GND
                           +---+

konosuke pinout PCB (note [K] marking in the silkscreen):

pcb_k_1.png
pcb_k_2.png


aje_fr pinout PCB (note [A] marking in the silkscreen):

pcb_a_1.png
pcb_a_2.png
 

Attachments

  • idc-CPS2_PIC12F509_629_675_683_DIP_konosuke_pinout_v4_gerber.zip
    46.4 KB · Views: 109
  • idc-CPS2_PIC12F509_629_675_683_DIP_aje_fr_pinout_v4_gerber.zip
    45 KB · Views: 121
  • idc-CPS2_Security_PICs.zip
    420.5 KB · Views: 108
Last edited:
I there a version for -3 and -4 pcbs?

Good question! I was going to look into it… I only went the PIC route as I had a load of old chips which used to use for PS1 mods and I wanted something to mess around with during the pandemic.

I would still consider doing a version for non-CN9 boards, but I’m not sure if there is much point. ack’s openkey solution seems to fit the bill rather nicely. :)
 
Am I correct to assume once a board is revived with an infinikey. If wanted to could I install a battery and remove the infinikey?
 
Am I correct to assume once a board is revived with an infinikey. If wanted to could I install a battery and remove the infinikey?
Yes. Install both the infinikey and the battery. Boot to set the key. Then power off and remove the infinikey.
 
I picked up a board that hadn't been tested in a while. Battery (exp date 2014) hasn't exploded, but I get a forest green screen at bootup and the test menu doesn't work. Sound like a key issue, or something I need to debug before attempting an install?
 
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