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I am using an Axunworks CBOX. I'm not really sure what types of options it has like that...
The CBOX has a DB15 (aka VGA) port. Have you tried connecting your CBOX to the OSSC with that port using a VGA cable? That will leave the horizontal and vertical sync signals separate instead of combining them like the SCART connection does. The OSSC should have an easier time getting a lock on the signal.
 
The CBOX has a DB15 (aka VGA) port. Have you tried connecting your CBOX to the OSSC with that port using a VGA cable? That will leave the horizontal and vertical sync signals separate instead of combining them like the SCART connection does. The OSSC should have an easier time getting a lock on the signal.
That is actually how I have it hooked up by default. Unfortunately, I just get a black screen.
 
That is actually how I have it hooked up by default. Unfortunately, I just get a black screen.
Does the OSSC show a red light or a green light?

If the light is green then the OSSC is locked on and putting out a signal but your display might not like it. When that happens with me, changing the OSSC’s upscaling level usually makes things work. 2X and 3X upscale are more compatible than 4X and 5X upscale it seems.
 
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If not resolved earlier, I can try my M72 with OSSC next week. However, I think I have used that combination already without a problem.
 
Does the OSSC show a red light or a green light?

If the light is green then the OSSC is locked on and putting out a signal but your display might not like it. When that happens with me, changing the OSSC’s upscaling level usually makes things work. 2X and 3X upscale are more compatible than 4X and 5X upscale it seems.
I have a green light. Changing those settings does nothing. :/. I appreciate the help, hopefully you have some more recommendations, lol.
 
Can you post a picture of the OSSC display after pushing the Info button on the remote with the M72 running? Also what kind of TV is the OSSC hooked up to?
 
Can you post a picture of the OSSC display after pushing the Info button on the remote with the M72 running? Also what kind of TV is the OSSC hooked up to?
Definitely! Picture attached. I believe the TV is Samsung Q65B.

For a bit of context, boards that have been essentially plug and play with the same setup:
- Naomi Netdimm setup
- CPS2 Multi
- Various CPS2 dedicated boards
- Gradius III
- V-V
 

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Fairly certain this happens with my setup as well - I have a samsung LCD on my test bench - and even though the OSSC locks on fine, my LCD says "out of range" or "this mode isn't supported". I have a small Sony PVM (5") that I then hook up to my CBOX supergun and it displays fine.

I don't recall if my M72 board is like this (I think it is), but midway boards as well.

Matt
 
Definitely! Picture attached. I believe the TV is Samsung Q65B.

For a bit of context, boards that have been essentially plug and play with the same setup:
- Naomi Netdimm setup
- CPS2 Multi
- Various CPS2 dedicated boards
- Gradius III
- V-V

I’m not sure there’s a solution for you that won’t require spending money.

In a nutshell, Irem M72, Taito F3, and some Toaplan V2 boards are notorious for using non-standard sync (here, 55.01hz is a bit off the 60hz the set expects) and Samsung sets are notorious for being intolerant of non-standard sync.

Your OSSC is getting a signal lock, so it is outputting a signal to your TV-your TV just doesn’t like it. I’m fairly certain that adjusting the OSSC’s advanced settings won’t help because those are usually for helping the OSSC get a sync lock when it can’t get a sync lock.

IMHO, your options are:
1) Try a different SuperGun like the HAS that can buffer or regenerate the sync signal to standardize it.
2) Try a different upscaler with a frame buffer like the RetroTink-5X, DExx-vd_isl, or Framemeister.
3) Try a different display that is more tolerant of non-standard sync, such as a PC CRT monitor, a TCL flat panel monitor, or an LG HDTV.

Hopefully someone else besides me has other suggestions for you to try. You could also try posting in the Shmups or VideoGamePerfection forums since a lot of OSSC experts frequent those forums.
 
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I’m not sure there’s a solution for you that won’t require spending money.

In a nutshell, Irem M72, Taito F3, and some Toaplan V2 boards are notorious for using non-standard sync (here, 55.01hz is a bit off the 60hz the set expects) and Samsung sets are notorious for being intolerant of non-standard sync.

Your OSSC is getting a signal lock, so it is outputting a signal to your TV-your TV just doesn’t like it. I’m fairly certain that adjusting the OSSC’s advanced settings won’t help because those are usually for helping the OSSC get a sync lock when it can’t get a sync lock.

IMHO, your options are:
1) Try a different SuperGun like the HAS that can buffer or regenerate the sync signal to standardize it.
2) Try a different upscaler with a frame buffer like the RetroTink-5X, DExx-vd_isl, or Framemeister.
3) Try a different display that is more tolerant of non-standard sync, such as a PC CRT monitor, a TCL flat panel monitor, or an LG HDTV.

Hopefully someone else besides me has other suggestions for you to try. You could also try posting in the Shmups or VideoGamePerfection forums since a lot of OSSC experts frequent those forums.
Well that's too bad, but I appreciate the help and your thorough replies.

I do actually have a HAS supergun (no cables or PSU), and an RT5X (no SCART cable with my Axun SG...), so I can definitely try those things when I get the cable situation sorted out.

Also, this isn't the deal of a century but I thought the price was consistent for a working M72 board, if anyone is looking:
https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m69105343501/
 
Is there any interest in a multi selector for the IREM M72 multi?
I do not own a board but I am sure I could get a selector running for it
 
Is there any interest in a multi selector for the IREM M72 multi?
I do not own a board but I am sure I could get a selector running for it

There is some, I have already modified the LCD-selector (ST-V, S16B, C2, M72) for M72 use and sold a few selectors. Request for them is/has been a lot lower than for example ST-V or S16B.
 
I threw together a pcb design for the IREM72 based off the Sega18 selector running off an Arduino UNO
If there is a need for it I can post the gerber files and the hex file for the UNO

1682528166297.png



DescriptionQuantityPCB LocationDigikey Part No.Comment
Cap Cer 0.1uf 25V1C1BC1154CT-ND
Res 10K OHM 1/4W 5%5R1,R2,R3,R4,R510KQBK-ND
Switch Tactile SPST-NO 0.05A4EG1829-NDblack switches for up, down and select, attract
Switch Tactile SPST-NO 0.05A1EG1830-NDred switch for reset
CONN IC DIP SOCKET 14POS TIN23M5462-NDsockets for CD4066BE chips
CD4066BE chip2
296-2061-5-ND
CONN HEADER VERT 2POS 2.54MM12057-PH1-02-UA-ND
Conn Header 8POS 2.54mm1

2057-PH2-08-UA-ND
connects to the IREM72 multi board - make sure pin 1 matches
CONN HEADER VERT 20POS 2.54MM22057-PH1-20-UA-NDYou will need to cut these for the pins that mount the board to the Arduino UNO
OLED 128x641Amazon URL:
https://www.amazon.ca/Display-Modul...0.96+inch+oled+128x64&qid=1647185028&sprefix=
0+96+inch+oled+128x64%2Caps%2C52&sr=8-5

This is the arduino UNO that I am using:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01EWOE0UU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Loading HEX to Arduino UNO

Here is the hex file needed to program the Arduino UNO:

IREM72 UNO Selector Hex File

** Note: If download does not work, copy the link and paste into new window

You can use a program called XLoader
Connect the board to your computer via USB A and USB B cable
Launch XLoader

1682186362467-png.png


Choose the hex file to load
Make sure the device is Uno(ATmega328 )
It should find your board
Once set, click upload the program the UNO with the hex file

** Right now it just uses text for the game on the OLED, maybe @opt2not can do some cool OLED images for IREM72


Attached are the gerber files
 

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I didn't take a better look, but note that reset is opposite with M72 than for ST-V, S16B, C2.

I recently asked about details from S18 multi in another topic (for modifying the LCD for it, because of one request I got), but so far the questions ignored.
 
I didn't take a better look, but note that reset is opposite with M72 than for ST-V, S16B, C2.

I recently asked about details from S18 multi in another topic (for modifying the LCD for it, because of one request I got), but so far the questions ignored.
What do you mean reset is opposite for IREM72? Does it go to 5v to reset it
On the S18 I take it to GND
 
Yes, +5V. And you have to connect wire directly to CPU-leg or to solder point (socket) under the leg. Those are the easiest places. There is a chip nearby which drives this line, but less surface to solder there. None through-holes between the chip and CPU socket/leg on that line.

S18 I know now, thanks :)
 
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